Primer

TerryNJ

TerryNJ

Well-known member
Please no drawn out, complex answers! What's the best and cheapest, anything will stick to, primer? I'm talking about a high build primer. I wash the parts with Phosphoric acid prior to painting so I'm not using etching primer. I want a primer that's compatable with most paint brands and types.
Terry
 
Terry, your answer is NOT that easy! You must tell us which product line you have available to you first!

If available to you locally, I would recommend the Evercoat Slicksand primer for a high build. It is a Polyester primer. Expect to pay in the $90 a gallon range. For an "anything will stick to, primer" you need to be looking at an Epoxy. Sticks great but does not sand as well as an urethane. There is a company called Southern Polyurethanes that some folks like. I do not use their products so I cannot comment any further in that regard.
 
Terry,

As brent said it depends on your system you are using
I like using epoxy primer then I like mar Hyde urethane primer which can be used as high build . It goes on well, is less expensive than the name brands
Sands well and is very durable . I've never had a problem with it
Just my experience . You'll have to find a dealer that carries it .
Larry
 
Southern Poly mentioned above SPI has good paint at good prices. They are hobby oriented and I have used cheap paints and good paints and theirs coats like good paints.

You have a problem, If you do not have the acid on the surface properly neutralized then the epoxy paint will not cure in a thin layer by the metal. This means no good adhesion.

When you are car shows note where the cars have chips and what paint level failed. From there you get ideas of where you have mistakes to avoid.

The SPI high build primer cures quick so you can get at sanding it quick. It sands nice and behaves well.
 
I use southern polyurethanes epoxy primer and really like it. It sands well no matter when you do it.

Have played with some that was put on sandblasted metal cleaned with their recommended water based wax and grease remover. After it was on over a year on some pieces I could hardly get it off by scraping or whatever....it was stuck. Also sandblasted and used their epoxy after cleaning on tractor chassis...put enamel over within their 7 day open period....sticks like hell after months...all layers. On my A I sanded all the blasted panels with 80 grit....put on epoxy then filler primer...all layers bonded well and very easy to use.

I haven't used there others primers yet....going to try them. I have friends who really like Transtar primers...but I have never used them. I have used Nason 2k primer on re builders with good luck. Also like all the Evercoat products...might try their primer. Due to experience I would stay away from "bargain" primers....my experience is you will pay in the long run. I feel the same about topcoat paint too. Painted pieces for a friend last week using Concept Acrylic Enamel. Nice paint but was $147 for one quart of Bonney gray for a 29 tudor....not including harder and reducer.

just my experience...don't mean it's right!
 
Builds nice, sands easy, cheap.
 

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Well, Thanks everyone! I do value your knowledge and experience. The SPI seems to have the votes, except for this "Open period". Does that mean after seven days it can no longer accept paint? Is this true of all primers? I don't know when I'll get the topcoat on so I want a primer I can put on and not worry about the time passage . Evercoat is good too. I like Evercoat filler. What might be called "My local supplier" is an Evercoat dealer. I'm aiming at the "Drabs" (Chickle and the other one) paint job and I don't know which brand I'll use so I want a primer that will take most paint. Kevin, My Coupe has lots of tiny exploded"pimples" on both doors so I have a pretty good idea what can go wrong. Thanks again!
Terry
 
It means the epoxy is able to be top coated during the open period without sanding. After that they recommend sanding. Most all primers and paints have the open period where painting may occur without sanding. Lots of people sand anyway...Won't hurt. Personal choice. It's how rod builders can spray all the different base colors for custom jobs then top coat it all with clear...no sanding of base.
 
PPG makes a high build primer called NP75. It needs a catylist to harden and is almost like spray bondo. Great for filling pitted metal.
 
SPI epoxy primer does have an etch agent in it. I used to etch the metal as you were stating Terry prior to applying the epoxy primer....but don't have to any more with SPI. I used Ppg and Dupont epoxy...didn't like them. SPI also has the best immediate technical support staff I ever used...7 days a week 24 hrs a day.

And no....I don't sell it.

PS: Used some Matrix Clear in my personal 2012 Kia fender...bumper and hood the other day. I liked it a lot.
 
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