Primer Surfacer for PPG Concept paint

jw hash said:
PPG K36 is my the one I use. and I have had O come backs.
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Just read some bad comments about K 36. I don't want "space age" primer surfacer, just something that works without adding stuff.

When I did my first two As, I used acrylic lacquer and one-part Feather Fill.

Was just trying to get the latest, easiest way..

Larry
 
tbirdtbird said:
PPG K36 is the best filler-primer on the market. Also the most expensive.
Having said that automotive paint gets the best results in experienced hands, which may have something to do with the complaint you found about it.
A very acceptable alternative is Transtar KwikPrime #6441. O'Reilly's is one source.
As you know of course automotive painting involves way more than a gallon of paint and a spray gun.
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Had a paint and body shop for over 25 years and k36 by far is a superior product. Just like a lot of different products you do get what you pay for. And if you know what you are doing the results will speak for them selves. The subsurface is no place to skimp on product or money. And how many times do you want to sand and reshoot your car. Once s hard enough, but to have to peel it all back down a second time is outright foolish. Just a opinion of someone who made a good living and not having any call backs due to inferior product.
 
I've always tried to use one manufacturer thru a process. For me, it is ppg; way over priced but way good. I don't use enough to cry over price. Not a production user.
Start out with dp, k36 etc.
Im surprised the feather fill didn't shatter. I had little luck with that product.
 
Just like when you hang WALLPAPER, read & follow THE INSTRUCTIONS for that particular product ! !
Saw an Old Mexican man fixing a sprinkler,--"You know what you're doing"?----"YEP, I READ the BOOK last night"!
Bill W.
 
I ran a restoration shop for 25 years, and used PPG products exclusively. DP primer, K36 surfacer, and Concept top coat. Not a good idea to mix products, and never a good idea to put urethane over lacquer. It is like building a house on a swamp. you want a stable base if you want a stable result in the top coat.
Good paint is very expensive today, and that is a burden, but using cheap stuff usually produces poor results.
 
Larry Jenkins said:
Just read some bad comments about K 36. I don't want "space age" primer surfacer, just something that works without adding stuff.

When I did my first two As, I used acrylic lacquer and one-part Feather Fill.

Was just trying to get the latest, easiest way..

Larry
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If you want a good surface and adhesion to last you want something with a hardener/catalyst, period. I would never use a one part of anything...primer, paint, anything.
If you're trying to save money, PPG's shop line 202 2k primer will work. It shrinks a little but blocks out nice. You just need to give it a few days to cure propery before final blocking to prevent anything showing up in your basecoat.
 
I used SPI undercoats.

Started off with the Dupont and PPG, but too many places indicated that SPI products were just as good and more economical.

I called and talked to the owner and he explained to me how he was offering basically the same products but more hobby friendly and lower cost. He does not have to support a network of dealers.
An example of why he is more hobby friendly is his epoxy primer. If I remember correctly he has a like a 7 day recoat window. Where PPG is 3 days or less (been a while since I looked it up). This means a weekend warrior can get by doing one operation on a sunday and finish next saturday.

I know when I use the SPI products it is clear he does not skimp on solids. It coats great.
 
forever4 said:
Apparently you don't want any advice after all.
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I wrote a two-part article years ago in the Restorer about how to prepare and paint your Model A.

Of course, it was all about lacquer primer surfacers and Acrylic Lacquer paint.

Yes, things have changed. That's why the "stupid" questions, Vince..

Larry
 
I've only painted a few undercarriage parts and one horn so far, but I sandblast the parts then sprayed DP 90 primer and top coated a few hours later with PPG 9000 black. Nothing has been installed yet, but the parts came out looking nice.

Was I supposed to use K36 somewhere?
 
I grew up in the auto body business and am an "anal perfectionist" (not always a good.thing!) about my work...first car age 12...I am 67 and still at it. I have used it all. The best advice I can offer has already been mentioned....do not scrimp on quality substrates. If you are unsure get some help...easier than redo.

Lots of decent products on the market. As a personal choice the last few years I use SPI products. I find them as good or better than PPG, Dupont, Transtar, etc. Personal choice only with excellent results.

Good luck
 
Southern Polyurethane Inc.s products are excellent. I use there complete line and have had great results. The prices are fair and work well. Very stable product. Everything works the way they advertise. Plus they have great Tech support. I have a feeling they may have bought into House of Colour products because the products work much the same. Even the Clearcoat sprays and smells the same???!!!

John Poole
 
old car guy said:
Had a paint and body shop for over 25 years and k36 by far is a superior product. Just like a lot of different products you do get what you pay for. And if you know what you are doing the results will speak for them selves. The subsurface is no place to skimp on product or money. And how many times do you want to sand and reshoot your car. Once s hard enough, but to have to peel it all back down a second time is outright foolish. Just a opinion of someone who made a good living and not having any call backs due to inferior product.
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I have a question for (Old car guy) that is when you use any kind of filler are you suppose to apply that on the bare metal or over the primed surface? it does build heat when it cures and some one told to me it can draw moisture between it and the metal.
Thanks
for any advice
 
These days I never put filler directly over bare metal...it goes over epoxy primer that was applied over properly prepared bare metal.. Today's fillers are great...I use Evercoat products such as Rage Extreme. Excellent products.

Remember, fillers should not replace metal work. I think its KevinNJ who has some good info on metal working on his site. Fillers are for skimming and block sanding to get surface perfectly flat. Not long ago a friend bought an older car body in primer. Owner said car was ready for paint. Not true. Found areas of cheap "bondo" up to 3/4" thick....applied over bare metal...and rusting and cracking on surface under the filler. Watch some of the custom car builders shows on TV...Like Overhaulin, Bitchin Rides, Classic Cars, and etc....can be good sources to see it done. Tons of YouTube videos also on internet. (NOT Gas Monkey Garage or Desert Car Kings). Patience and hard work are usually required.
 
I see some of you guys mentioning SPI products. Recently I've been looking into a small company comparable to SPI. Tamco paints out of virginia. They have a poly high build primer that is 65 percent solids and they claim zero shrinkage...I'll give it a try in a couple weeks. Any of you guys heard of them or used Tamco products?
 
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