Pretty basic, but I need some input...

imnezrider

imnezrider

Member
I recently bought a '29 roadster pu with a 295 stroker engine in it and I haven't fooled with a flathead since I was 15 (74 now :)). The engine is running hotter than I would like (190 - 210). I know this subject has been hashed to death, but what I would like is for someone to be good enough to "walk me through" the timing procedure (Mallory distributor). I see a "pointer", but haven't found any mark on the lower pulley yet. I've read wher the recommended setting is 4 degrees, but others say it can be advanced to 6 degrees and cool things down a bit if you're careful about detonation.
Any helpful thoughts would be appreciated......
 
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If you put a vacuum gauge on it and advance/retard till it reads 21 inches of vacuum, you'll be very close. I'd check the thermostats and water pumps as well if it still runs too hot for your liking.
 
Vic Piano said:
If you put a vacuum gauge on it and advance/retard till it reads 21 inches of vacuum, you'll be very close. I'd check the thermostats and water pumps as well if it still runs too hot for your liking.
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Thanks Vic...one more question. Are you saying that 21" should put me at 4 degrees or 6? I want to try it at 6 if possible. I guess I could always advance it until I hear some detonation and then back it off a hair?? Do you happen to know if clockwise or counter clockwise will advance? Thanks again......Mick
 
If it's on the road, take it up a long hill, if it pings retard it a little at a time, If it doesn't ping,advance it till it pings, then back it up, till it doesn't. If it's a 296 make sure it not running too lean. This gas is ten percent alcohol now days and you may have to run bigger main jets to compensate for the lack of btu's. My two cents, good luck, Chuck.
 
some times the timing mark on those pullys cane be very hard to find, some times its only a little v grove cut into the motor side of the pully, and some times just a little ball on the pully, bring piston slowly up to top dead center on # one and check real close for either, you may even have to run a finger nail over the pully to find it
 
Allot of goo answers here, but a 296 needs a pretty efficient cooling system. ASlso It's hard to get a low CR with this size engine. Now is this an 8BA style dist? If so, is thei an early or late Mallory? The early ones had a special cap and vac adv.. If 8BA, there should be a small button on the crank pulley. This is about 2* adv. An inck from the Button is about 20* adv. The advice about the A/F is important, flathead don't like to run lean. Good luck, OL' Ron
 
Lots of good thoughts...thanks. As for A/F ratio, I plan to change plugs anyhow, so that should give me a clue about rich/lean.

No, distributor has no advance (and no provision for a vacuum line on the intake manifold). Here's a pic of the distributor.
 

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All the 8BA stock engines that I have worked on have a raised bump the size of a BB on the pulley. I used a 6volt timing light until it quit working. you can use a 12 volt light if you have a spare 12 volt batt to connect the leads to.
 
jdl said:
you can use a 12 volt light if you have a spare 12 volt batt to connect the leads to.
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Thanks...mine's been converted to 12V already. Generator has 12V field coils to keep the period look. I'll look/feel for the BB.
 
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Every Mallory I've worked on has a terrible advance curve right out of the box. It generally starts advancing too late and then has too much total advance. If that engine has any kind of performance cam, you won't get any where near 21" hg at idle, will be more like 15 - 16" depending on the idle speed.
 
Based on the picture, it might be helpful to the heating problem to change the upper radiator hoses so that they aren't flattened closed at the bend. A couple hard copper 1 3/4" outside-outside elbows will help.
 
Dale Fairfax said:
Based on the picture, it might be helpful to the heating problem to change the upper radiator hoses so that they aren't flattened closed at the bend. A couple hard copper 1 3/4" outside-outside elbows will help.
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Thanks...that's a thought too. Don't want to overlook any possibility.
 
Dale Fairfax said:
Based on the picture, it might be helpful to the heating problem to change the upper radiator hoses so that they aren't flattened closed at the bend. A couple hard copper 1 3/4" outside-outside elbows will help.
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Dale...one more time. I've searched everywhere I can think of, but can't find any copper els. Any ideas? I did find these that I might be able to cut down....

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1949-1953-Flathead-Ford-V8-Radiator-Hose-Dress-Up-Kits,6334.html
 
Go to a plumbing supply store. They should have 1 1/2 copper els. They would measure close to 1 /3/4" on the outside.
 
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