Pressurized Radiator
- Thread starter JohnB15632
- Start date
woofa.express
Well-known member
I have fitted a pressurised radiator and a bearing non leaking water pump. I am unhappy with the radiator which has not offered any advantage above non pressurised system because it still over heats. I have fitted a chrome cylindrical over flow but have not run it for a summer as yet. It looks likely I will remove the petition between the radiator ducting from the top tank.
Sunny the Model A
Senior Member
I will be running a pressurized radiator on my Model A pickup because the old radiator leaks and has junk in it. I will be dailying my truck in sometimes stop and go traffic down in SC. so I need all the cooling I can get. I am going with a Brassworks extreme touring 11fpi pressurized radiator with an overflow tank. A six blade fan that i also bought will help as well. No thermostat, cause it barely drops below freezing here
Synchro909
Well-known member
If you're referring to the baffle you can see when you look through the filler cap, removing that will make the radiator less efficient. If the radiator is clear, the hot water will run through the tubes in the middle of the core only and will not cool as well as if it were spread over the whole width (and all tubes).
I have a radiator with a honeycomb core which is nice and clear but honeycomb is not as efficient as a modern core. I'm thinking seriously about having it re-cored with a modern 3 row core. I expect that will be so efficient, I'll have to use a thermostat for ordinary running but I'
I'll have plenty of cooling up my sleeve for when I towing in the heat up north.
rvye@roadrunner.com
Junior Member
The thermostat acts as a restrictor the water pump is pushing water too fast to the top of the radiator and it’s going out the overflow
Ernie Vitucci
Well-known member
Just a thought...but if a new radiator is not cooling the engine...then you might want to check that your head gasket is not leaking and that the inside of the block and head water passages are clean or mostly clean...water pump impeller is another place to check...Ernie in Arizona
Synchro909
Well-known member
I beg to differ on this. The ONLY place the pump can get water is from the bottom of the radiator. That leaves room in there for what the pump pumps.
If water is coming out of the overflow after the system has found equilibrium, there is a problem like exhaust gasses getting in there (blown head gasket or cracked block).
Bob Bidonde
Well-known member
I have run a low pressure coolant system using an orifice in the radiator's overflow line and a snug fitting radiator cap. The weak link is the water pump. It will leak, so be prepared to adjust the packing on a regular basis. My orifice technique did keep the coolant nearly constant until the pump started leaking. No overflow tank was necessary.
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woofa.express
Well-known member
Hi Synchro.
The pressurised radiator has the filling cap on a goose neck. Square one so it is not possible to get a visual check on water level. Shown in posting number 18 left picture. I have an overflow tank fitted, granted a small quantity one as in the picture again submitted by Dave in MN, submission number 18- the centre picture, the long chrome cylindrical tank. It doesn’t hold all the water from the overflow. Maybe a little more than half a gallon lost. This radiator is my ’28 ute. My ’28 tourer has an atmospheric radiator which runs cooler. Both have the same temp gauge and measuring point the same, ie on return to the top of the radiator. The unpressurised radiator is of bigger capacity, but I don’t know how much bigger.
I probably will have the baffle removed to hold more volume. Much of my summer running is in temps over 75c, frequently up to 100. When it exceeds 100 I stay home. Melbourne, as you know, because that's where you live, is mostly cooler but with hot northerly winds temps are the same as ours which I have listed.
