pressurized radiator

D

dmdeaton

Member
I am looking at a 31 Deluxe Sedan and it has a pressurized radiator with the fake top neck. The real filler neck is mounted on the back of the top tank. What are the pros/cons of this setup?
 
Just because it has a newer style radiator, doesn't mean that the system is pressurized. You can crack the top radiator cap and the system will vent out the top and negate the pressurized cap under the hood.

Where is the overflow pipe located? If it is under the top cap, it is already vented. If it is beside the pressurized cap, then just crack loose the top cap and there will be no more pressure. You can drill a small hole behind the false top cap if needed to vent the pressure.
 
I have that setup, made by Walker Radiator Co. I have the newer "leakless" water pump. My rebuilt block has some hairline cracks near the top, and I use a 4Lb. cap. I have no visible leakage on trips, but after a 250 mile freeway drive, I lost about 2 quarts of coolant. Engine never gets over 180.

No complaints from me. Water should be checked regularly anyhow due to the block cracks, to make sure nothing is getting worse.
 
I will check all this out when I go this week to take a second look at the car. That is why I asked about it. New to all this. I am sure whatever setup that was used on this it is probably ok. The rest of the car seems to be done right. It has a B motor in it also. Are the water pumps different on these?
 
The water pump style depends on what head was used. Some use the Model A head on B engines. Others may have the C head which is what the engine came with. That water pump has 3 bolts. I have a B engine and run a Model A police head. On my other B engine I have an after market Winfield head. It also has a pressurized radiator and runs GREAT with no problems.
 
dmdeaton said:
I will check all this out when I go this week to take a second look at the car. That is why I asked about it. New to all this. I am sure whatever setup that was used on this it is probably ok. The rest of the car seems to be done right. It has a B motor in it also. Are the water pumps different on these?
Click to expand...
An original 1932 B motor with an original 1932 Model B head used a 3 bolt water pump. The original Model B head (used 1932-34) had the letter "C" cast into it. The 1932 Model B water pump is the correct length when installed in a Model A. The 1933-34 Model B water pumps were were also 3 bolts but shorter and usually not used when installing a Model B engine in a Model A. It is common to see a Model A head on a Model B engine. You need to block two water passages in the block by drilling and taping them and then installing a set screw in the block.

Charlie Stephens
 
Charlie Stephens said:
An original 1932 B motor with an original 1932 Model B head used a 3 bolt water pump. The original Model B head (used 1932-34) had the letter "C" cast into it. The 1932 Model B water pump is the correct length when installed in a Model A. The 1933-34 Model B water pumps were were also 3 bolts but shorter and usually not used when installing a Model B engine in a Model A. It is common to see a Model A head on a Model B engine. You need to block two water passages in the block by drilling and taping them and then installing a set screw in the block.

Charlie Stephens
Click to expand...

I will get some good pics and then we will talk
 
I am using a Brassworks pressurized radiator, Vintage Precision 180 degree thermostat, Rupert Extreme water pump, works well, consistently runs at 180. Have over 10,000 miles with very good results.

A's Always
Dave
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top