Pressure plate question

mkmskm

mkmskm

Senior Member
I pulled out my transmission today and found the source of the scraping noise was a nut that came off one of the clutch fingers letting the finger scrape the clutch springs. I was thinking of replacing the entire pressure plate assembly and clutch disc but am wondering about balance. The old unit had marks indicating where it was installed balanced with the flywheel. Do I need to pull the flywheel and get it balanced with the new pressure plate?
 
This is why all my parts are balanced separately. I don't think anyone should have to re-balance all the rotating parts just for a damaged pressure plate or clutch replacement.
 
I wonder why they always mark the parts so if you replace just the clutch that you can put the pressure plate back in the same spot? Mine had 2 marks on each.
 
Reply to mkmskm: Your parts were probably balanced while on the crankshaft. Many flywheels are offcenter on a reground crankshaft because the regrinder did not keep the original crankshaft center. If this is the case with your parts, you should match the marks when reassembling.
 
Let's face it....The best way to go for now would be to remove the flywheel (match mark to crankshaft first) have it re-faced, and re-install, using a new clutch plate and pressure plate.
The flywheel will be awkward and dangerous to remove and re-install with the engine in the vehicle. Make sure to inspect the flywheel mounting bolts for thread stretch.
Bolts supplied by the vendors are just junk.
You will know whether your decision to take the short cut was in error when you start it up the first time, but I am willing to place a good bet that everything will be just fine. By the way....install a new throw-out bearing and pilot bearing, while your at it.
 
The car was restored ~30 years ago by a previous owner but only has 2500 miles on the restoration. I'm not looking to take any shortcuts but the flywheel surface (and the pressure plate) look to be in great condition. I've ordered a new pressure plate and clutch because the old pressure plate had one of the fingers get a little cobbered up when the adjusting nut came off and it damaged the springs on the clutch (which has plently of surface and looked good otherwise) and I'm trying to figure out how much I need to balance. Have the flywheel and new pressure plate done as a unit or does the whole engine need to come out?
 
Actually the rear end and transmission are already out along with the clutch and pressure plate so I was hoping I could just pull the flywheel off and leave the engine in place.
 
mkmskm said:
I was hoping I could just pull the flywheel off and leave the engine in place.
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You can if it is through the floor and you can one arm approximately 62.5 pounds or what ever your particular flywheel weighs. For safety sake pad the floor you are working on as the sudden weight can be a real surprise.
 
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Yes the floor is out, and the rear is up on jack stands. My thought was to run my transmission jack up and support the bottom of it so I didn't have to one arm it.
 
Sounds fair, just don't put yourself in an unsafe position. My favorite method, way back when, was to unbolt the FW through the floor and let it fall in the dirt.
 
Just out of curiosity, how high of jack stands did you have to use? I realize that if the rear end is coming off, you can't support it there, but going clear up to the frame looks to be a long way up for most jack stands, as opposed to supporting the just the axel. (I have to do this with my 31PU in a couple of months)
 
I used some 6 ton uints that are extended to 21". They are on the frame just in front of the rear running board supports. I removed the rear bumper brace in the center and the spare off the back of my Tudor and slid it right out the back.
 
mkmskmxymandsoon. This might help. Remove the wire and the 4 bolts that hold flywheel to the crankshaft. Replace two of the bolts with two (180 degrees apart) 7/16 4" long sae fine thread bolts - or - even better- use two of the water gooseneck head studs. When you push the flywheel backwards, off its 1/4" long pins, the long bolts wlll support it until you can get it far enough out of the flywheel cover to get your hands around the edge. That way it does not fall on the edge of the flywheel cover and then onto your toe.
 
For safety sake

kenparker "use two of the water gooseneck head studs. When you push the flywheel backwards said:
Ken puts forth some very sound advice. The use of 4" studs to clear the clutch housing is the best way to handle the weight. Good luck...be careful. I also have used an automotive jack centered under the flywheel to lower the beast to the floor.
Balancing...considering where you are at in the process, the flywheel and pressure plate should be balanced together for best results.
Good Day!
Dave in MN
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Kenparker has it right on! allso use the long bolts to guide the flywheel back onto the crankshaft. works fine, and no pinched fingers!!!
 
Tade two bolts out and put two short studs in the two bolt holes and remove the rest of the bolts. put jack under flywheel and slid flywheel on to jack. The way but backwards to put back together. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all.
 
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Do hope you marked the orientation of the flywheel to the crankshaft, before you removed it. There may be the possibility that the person who rebuilt the engine previously did balance the flywheel to the crankshaft.
 
Yes I did mark it and took the whole unit down to the clutch shop to have the whole unit balanced. The long bolts worked slick and I slipped my transmission jack up under and set the flywheel on it, tipped it on its side and wheeled it right out.
 
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