Pressure Plate Fingers

M

ModelAArmy

Member
I removed engine to install Mitchell transmission and am examining pressure plate to adjust fingers. I bought a tool to do this but my fingers see to be way off or I am using this tool incorrectly. Please look at photos and give me any advice.Thanks
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1816.jpg
    IMG_1816.jpg
    58.5 KB · Views: 70
  • IMG_1817.jpg
    IMG_1817.jpg
    57.1 KB · Views: 53
You will need to bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel, with the clutch disk in place, just as it would be when in use, and then adjust the fingers using the tool....
 
I’m not sure how that could work as different clutches and pressure plates have different dimensions due to manufacturing and previous machine work.
 
On the same subject...How do you adjust a V8 pressure plate in a Model A? I know it's the same method and 5/8 measurement.



At 23,000 miles I was running some errands. On the way back I heard a snap, whurring, and some tinkling going on in the bell housing. Took off the inspection plate and I discovered the throw out return spring had busted in half. Looked for the lost half but can't find it. I also noticed that the 3 fingers are now equally riding on the throw out bearing, that's not suppose to happen.
Thanks for your help! poll: would one pull the engine...or the rear end?
 
I pulled the rear end when I did mine. Worked out great as I rebuilt the rear spring at the same time.
 
If you are using a Model A pressure plate, be sure to check the step on the flywheel where the pressure plate bolts up. The original depth is 1.123", Often a flywheel was resurfaced without the same amount of material taken off the step. If you are having the flywheel resurfaced, be sure and tell the shop to restore the original depth.

The 1.123" depth is critical to the proper operation of the clutch. If you use a V-8 clutch, this area is machined off.

Tom Endy
 
Hi Pete,

I would pull the engine. If you need my help, let me know. I have a hoist you can use, but I suspect you do too. I also have the clutch alignment tool (plastic spline) if you need that.

I am sorry to hear of the problem.
 
NKAMINAR
Thank You for your suggestions. Would you mind shipping your hoist and coming with it to Seattle? HA!!! How are ya?



Pole...1 for pulling the rear end...1 for the enginee
 
ModelAArmy said:
I understand now but I watched a Shinn video and he was adjusting them on a work bench. He was not using this tool.
Click to expand...


Paul's clutch adjusting method does not use the tool, but instead uses a caliper. That method sets the fingers to be exactly the same but with the clutch having no pre-load tension on the springs by not being bolted in and against the clutch disk.


I have always used the tool and had the clutch bolted to the flywheel.


One important aspect of both methods is that the finger adjustment needs to be exactly the same for all fingers.


It kind of makes sense that the two methods should give the same results, but I have not tested that so I cannot say.
 
Instead of a clutch disc metal spacers the thickness of the clutch disc should be used, this way any thickness variation of the clutch disc won’t add to the adjustment problems
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top