Pressure plate bolt torques

S

Stoker280

Junior Member
I replaced the clutch disk and pressure plate in the truck I am working on and the 17-20 foot pounds of torque seems a little light to me. It’s my first clutch replacement on something other then a naval destroyer so I don’t have much to compare it too. Any words of wisdom?
 
Not certain what year you are working on but the "early" years have blind threaded holes. Be careful not to bottom out the bolt and break it off.
I've replaced more clutches than I dare recall and have never used a torque setting. I have no doubt there is one, I'd just never felt I needed one.
If you are fearful, use the specification that you'd found for this.
 
Tony said:
Vanpelt website 17-20. Does seem light http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_torquespecs32-48V8.htm
Click to expand...


You're gonna find that these "light" figures are pretty-much correct for a 5/16" bolt, depending on the actual GRADE of steel used. 3/8" bolts are going to require a little more 'oomf' to snug 'em up properly. A STANDARD "bolt-torque" chart below for a GUIDE.....NOT necessarily the GOSPEL!!! DD


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I just did some 59A ones up and used no more than 20 lb ft. It felt a bit heavy to me, rather than light. They are a 5/16 coarse thread and can and will break if overtorqued.
 
It is foolish to avoid using a torque wrench for those tiny PP bolts. Use 20 lbs. for new bolts and 18 for used parts.
 
15-20lbs is really not that much pressure. Hell my head weighs about 11lbs according to science. hahaha. Torquing a bolt at a higher torque doesn't make it better or stronger. Certainly with something that has shear pressure. Flywheels have shear pressure from the side of the bolt. Not a bolt that keeps a head tight with linear pressure. Remember it's just an old flathead.


Probably more important is the bolts you use. Shoulder bolts made for flywheels (new or old oem). ARP is cheap for flywheel bolts. Not something I would consider putting any bolt in. Torque them, forget about it.



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