Pressure Mains

KMeredith87

KMeredith87

Senior Member
I have am currently working on rebuilding an engine for my 30 pickup and keep hearing about pressurizing at a minimum the center main. After a substantial amount of search I am continuing to come up empty for any substantial info on this. First of all is it worth it and or needed? I will be running a fully interested and counterbalanced engine. Can anyone give me info to go on or where to go to get it? I've also been told you should modify the oil pump to gain more pressure from it, any ideas on that one?
 
I've done the conversion and followed the instructions in "Vintage Speed & Sport Secrets " magazine Volume 19 number 4 April 2010.
The article is by Charlie Yapp, the editor, and presumably you can buy a back copy from him. PH (513)724-0700 email cy4fn@aol.com web: www.secretsofspeed.com
I've not had my motor running yet, but the pipe from the pressure reducing valve to the front main bearing proved very tricky to make.
Charlie can supply the pressure reducing valve
Good luck
Keith
 
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An easier way to regulate the pressure is to use a modified V8 pump with internal relief. It reduces the external plumbing and potential leaks.
 
My thoughts are that with the counterweighted crank and a correct babbit job, the engine should outlive me and do fine. Also if you like to drive more than 2200 RPM then I'd install an overdrive or 3.27 ring and pinion and get the RPM's back to a better range.
 
I agree with Tom. Both of the engines in my Roadster and Coupe are classed as touring engines, counter balanced crankshaft, insert main and rod bearings, lightened flywheel, 5.4 Snyder high compression heads, and 3.54 gears in the rear end. I myself like the 3.54 gears as a big part of my driving is in the mountains.

Remember, for many years in the past, overheads like Riley etc. were run on A engines with pored bearings, so insert bearings are a matter of cost but not really necessary. To my way of thinking, the high compression head and counter balanced crankshaft give the best results for the investment.

Ron
 
KMeredith87 said:
I have am currently working on rebuilding an engine for my 30 pickup and keep hearing about pressurizing at a minimum the center main. After a substantial amount of search I am continuing to come up empty for any substantial info on this. First of all is it worth it and or needed? I will be running a fully interested and counterbalanced engine. Can anyone give me info to go on or where to go to get it? I've also been told you should modify the oil pump to gain more pressure from it, any ideas on that one?
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We cannot answer your questions correctly about, needed or worth it, without knowing what you are looking to gain.

As with any modifications, one needs to have a goal. What goal are you trying to accomplish? Are you looking for an occasional weekend driver, daily driver around town, or a car that will keep up with freeway traffic >65 mph? Once you has decided what you want out of the car you can decide if the machine work necessary is worth the time and expense.
 
Here is what you need to get started buy and read Jim Brierley Book 4 Bangers and me it covers this in good easy to understand instruction with good photos
Google Dan4banger he has V8 pumps with all the mods done ready for what you want
Google bills bangers he shows how to improve a stock pump and a bit about plumbing for pressure oiling
Go to the hamb web site and read the old monthly banger meeting threads
Jims book will be your best bet here
Colin
 
I have done it on several engines. You only need to do it on a high HP, high RPM engines. For a stock Model A going 50 mph it is a waist of time. Plus you will have problems with leaks, like rear main. You will have to put a Chev seal or some other good rear main seal. So you will need to build up the crank, then grind the seal area for a good seal.

My advice for what ever it is worth don't do it. Now if you are talking about the line that some put from the oil pump to the center main, it will not help. There is no need for that setup. The pumps moves around some while the engine is running. So all that will happen is the line will break some day. Plus those lines put the oil under the rear cap. That is not the way it works. The oil comes from the top and the crank rolls the oil under the crank. That is why bearings are bigger across the center line of the engine.
 
Somewhere in my archives I have several photos of the adaptation I did for the engine in my speedster and the over modified engine in my Fordor. Wont send pictures over FB cause I dont want to deal with the negative. Email me and i will email back with pix - directly.
But, George is right. It is only advantageous if you are building a "HP, highRPM engine". ken kenparker0703@aol.com
 
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KMeredith87 said:
I have am currently working on rebuilding an engine for my 30 pickup and keep hearing about pressurizing at a minimum the center main. After a substantial amount of search I am continuing to come up empty for any substantial info on this. First of all is it worth it and or needed? I will be running a fully interested and counterbalanced engine. Can anyone give me info to go on or where to go to get it? I've also been told you should modify the oil pump to gain more pressure from it, any ideas on that one?
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K,
it sounds like you are building a touring car that will not require as much maintenance, at least on the bottom end. Is the crank drilled for oil to the rods?

Because of the fully inserted setup, I would recommend doing a full oiling, all 3 mains. This can be very nicely done by removing the original oiling tubes from the valve galley. You can then add a copper set of lines to all 3 and then feed from up in the valve galley. There is plenty of room around the cam for the lines.

The pump can be modified or better, a modified V8 pump or aftermarket with pressure relief in the pan IMHO. make sure to have a provision on the pump to feed oil into the lifter valley to provide oil to the cam bearings. It may also be wise to drill a feed hole to the rear cam journal if one doesn't exist.

The pump retaining bolt hole can be used for a pressure outlet from block to feed external filter and then fed back into mains line.

With a pressure fed motor, the oiling on the cam gears is done from the front bearing.

This is not hard, just takes some thinking and ingenuity.

John
 
K,
These pictures are an example of what John has stated to you. Hope they give you a pictorial of 'a way' to accomplish what you ask about.
 

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tbirdtbird,

the cam bearings are oiled as normal, the pump must have a feed to allow oil up into the normal lifter valley and gravity feed. The cam gears will get plenty from the front bearing.

I actually do my plumbing a little different, I have a hard enough time getting springs and keepers in without the extra plumbing around the valves.
 

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The lines run along the outer wall on cam side and turn around the cam bearings (over them). I take out the original tubes and tap for brass fittings directly into bearing boss. Then I solder in all the lines, no ferrules and nuts to come loose.

That particular motor has a modified "C" (Eubanks) crank turned to Ø1.85 and modified V8 pump.

And thank you, I try.
 
tbirdtbird said:
looks interesting.
How does oil get to the timing gears and the cam bearings with this rig?
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This particular A block was one of last that the late J. Steel did in his shop. This block is not mine but was brought into same business where my B block resides now. Yes, it looks kind of 'busy' in and around the valve area. This is just one way to do this job, maybe not the best but if it works ! This is a full pressure inserted rod/main A block.
BTW...A B block already has pressure to mains, thanks to Ford. So with drilled B/C crank...pressure to ALL. That would be my advice ...if you are going to spend the extra $. Bonus is stronger crank, etc :D
 
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