Preload spider gear alternative

Res731

Res731

Senior Member
Hello barners. In reading Tom Endy`s instructions he talks about using an old modified spider gear during the preload trial and error settings. Does anyone have an alternative method as I don't have an old spider gear nor a lathe to drill one to create his tool.

Thanks

Rudy
 
I shoved a piece of rope into the finally assembled gears, pulled it out through the oil hole ---no modifications to original parts
 
There is an article that appeared in the MAFCA Restorer about 25 years ago about an alternate method of checking the pre-load. The author figured out how to convert inch pounds to a reading on a fish scale. His procedure was to wrap a number of turns of heavy string around the center of the carrier. The end of the string came out through the torque tube flange of the banjo. He attached the fish scale to the string and pulled the string turning the carrier and giving him a reading on the fish scale.


At a MAFCA national meet shortly after the article was published Les Andrews had a rear axle assembly set up and he demonstrated the technique. I thought it a cumbersome procedure and it gave me the idea for the tool I built. I had a friend with a machine shop drill and tap the spider gear yoke. The yoke is extremely hard and I don't know how he accomplished the task. Several people who have duplicated the tool have indicated they could not drill a hole through the yoke and simply welded a nut onto the yoke for the threaded shaft to screw into.


Tom Endy
 
What I did was with the axles,ring gear,spyder gears all assembled I stuffed a piece of rope into the gears through a hole ---like stuffing a rag in the timing gear to stop it to remove the nut
Then with the housings assembled to check preload I put a nut on added a nail piece instead of a cotter, put a socket over the nut and used a torque wrench to read preload
when the preload was figured I grabbed the rope and wiggled axles and it came out, no need to take it apart
 
Hi Tom, I made a tool like yours after looking at one of your articles. I took a die grinder
with a stone and ground on the center to get thru the hardening, then drilled it.
It seems like the hardening didn't go very deep. Maybe I was just lucky.
 
The spider gears act as a stop for the axles, I believe. There is a center hole at the center. There is also a center hole at the end of the axle, hence there is nothing to contact either or both parts. When I did mine, I drilled out the spider and tapped it 3/8 - 16 and used the same spider for final assembly.
Terry
 
Are we talking about carrier brg. pre-load or spider gear pre-load? Spider gears aren't pre-loaded as far as I know. They only turn on cornering. I do carrier brg. pre-load by feel, thru the pinion hole.
 
He is asking about making one of the spider gears that a long rod can be inserted to turn the carrier unit to set pre-load. (?)I welded a coupling nut on mine and used a piece of all thread with a socket welded on the other end that fit my torque wrench. Reaching thru the hole and doing by feel works if you have done a few, but for a newbie not so much. I have only done around 12-15 and still use the torque wrench. Drilling and tapping might work if you have the tools but the spider has been hardened so most tools are not going to do much for the average person.
 
redmodelt said:
He is asking about making one of the spider gears that a long rod can be inserted to turn the carrier unit to set pre-load. (?)I welded a coupling nut on mine and used a piece of all thread with a socket welded on the other end that fit my torque wrench. Reaching thru the hole and doing by feel works if you have done a few, but for a newbie not so much. I have only done around 12-15 and still use the torque wrench. Drilling and tapping might work if you have the tools but the spider has been hardened so most tools are not going to do much for the average person.
Click to expand...

The spider has been hardened true! But it's not so hard that it can't be drilled. If your drills (Harbor Freight) won't cut it, get a 5/16 drill from a machine shop or a machine shop supplier. My drills were all acquired from the shops I worked in, so they're the real deal. Tip of the day! When deal with really hard materials, use a Center Drill. They're made a little harder and will cut where a twist drill won't! Sometimes!
Terry
 
Thanks red, that's what I assumed but wasn't sure because of the wording. I was a proffessional mechanic for 20 years so have a fairly good sense of feel. Also A and early V8 diffs are pretty easy to work on and not so finicky as hypoids. The last rear end I did at work was a double-reduction, 2-speed, with only shims for adjustments, lots of fun!
 
Res731 said:
Hello barners. In reading Tom Endy`s instructions he talks about using an old modified spider gear during the preload trial and error settings. Does anyone have an alternative method as I don't have an old spider gear nor a lathe to drill one to create his tool.

Thanks

Rudy
Click to expand...

You could fabricate a usable facsimile out of mild steel, doesn't have to be precise, just good enough to get the job done. Maybe a coupling nut w/3 1/2" rod stubs welded on, or something like that.
 
an easy way I do mine is to assemble the carrier with bearings BUT no axles ,and no pinion fitted to the centre, then its and easy job to feel the carrier preload,when done,remove the carrier and then fit the pinion,set the gear backlash and check the contact,when done strip and then fit the axles and assemble.
Lawrie
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top