Preferred intake manifold for 1956 Thunderbird

[zuburg]

I have a ECZ 9424-A intake for my 1956 Thunderbird. I just want to confirm advice on this and other forums. It's my understanding that the preferred intake is the ECZ 9424-B from 1957 and later Y-blocks, to support the 1957 or later carbs (or new modern carbs). But if I understand it, if I make this change, I would also have to change my distributor from the 1956 distributor to a 1957 or later distributor? Sounds like a rather expensive upgrade.

I have a new engine to install and have the teapot carb that I rebuilt. I've read about the horror stories about teapots leaking and catching on fire, but I assume those situations were somewhat unusual?

Should I go forward with what I have and keep it as much 1956 as possible? Is it worth it to make the upgrade?

 

[Oldmics]

The preformance obtained from this upgrade is worth the expense.


To alleviate some of the cost you could get a non-tach drive 57 (or later) distributor.


A large chunk of the cost is in obtaining a correct tach drive distributor which are EXPENSIVE !


The newer style Holly carbs are plentiful with usually better fuel mileage,easy start up and cold driveability is obtained thru the upgrade.


I did it on some of my customers cars and they have been very happy.


Good luck if you go that way.


Oldmics

 

[dmsfrr]

Does your '56 distributor have the Tach drive fitting on the side? (it's been a while, I don't remember)

Double check that the dual diaphragms on the distributor still seal and function. One at a time connect a piece of tubing to each vacuum fitting and blow cautiously but firmly to see if it holds pressure. If it does, suck hard to see if the points mounting plate moves. It may need to be cleaned and lightly lubed if it's stuck.
If one or the other diaphragm won't hold pressure the canister set needs to be replaced. approx $160

Yes, a '57+ carburetor provides a different vacuum pressure than a '56 distributor needs for the timing advance to work correctly.

If you have functional correct '56 T-Bird parts, even if they could use some repair work, that's the most 'cost effective' way to go and should be just fine. The teapot carbs can be repaired/rebuilt to work quite reliably.

The '57 parts can be very pricey. "B" intake manifolds easily sell for a couple hundred, a decent '57 T-Bird distributor is in the 500 to 700 dollar range and you'd still need a carburetor & matching air cleaner.
A possible '57 distributor option... (as Oldmics mentioned) if your current distributor isn't a tach drive version and you can live with that, use an oem '57-'64 Y-block dist for much less money. (50 to 125, ebay prices)

If you can find good deals on decent '57(+) style parts (craigslist, swap meets, etc.) that can make your choice easier.
.

 

[zuburg]

Thanks, the previous owner installed an electric tach so the non-tach drive would be great. Also, maybe I can recoup some of the cost by selling my 1956 distributor with dual vacuum?

I also posted an item asking about an electronic ignition distributor. If I have to buy a new distributor anyway, maybe I could go that route? Here's a link to the distributor in my other post:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-Y-BLOCK-239-256-272-292-312-Pro-Series-HEI-DISTRIBUTOR-BLACK-45K-COIL/351848946642?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

 

[zuburg]

I do not have the tech-drive distributor. I may come acquire the 1957 intake at no cost, waiting for confirmation it is a 1957. So maybe I can find a non-tach drive 1957 or later distributor for about what I can get for my 1956 distributor? I see that just the dual vacuum cans are pricey by themselves. (I moved the dual vacuum cans from my running 239 distributor and moved them to the 1956/292 distributor, so they should work). I think it might be worth the cost of a carb (I can sell my rebuilt teapot to recoup some of the cost).

 

[dmsfrr]

Even tho the replacement dual canisters are expensive, I'd be surprised if you can get much for a non-tach-drive '56 distributor. There isn't any real demand for them.
You might get some good money for a clean '56 carb if the right buyer comes along. But again, many '56 Y-block owners do the same upgrade you are.

The 'B' intake manifold is easily recognizable by the larger mounting surface & bolt pattern for the carb and a vacuum fitting at the rear, in addition to the ECZ-9425-B casting number on top.
Many of them had a heat tube for the choke thermostat thru the exhaust crossover, it's usually best if the ends of that are sealed.

With a 'B' manifold for free you're most of the way there, and you might be able to find a small cfm 4bbl in decent shape in a similar way.

 

[Bleach]

Yes it's a good idea to seal these ends especially if you get a carb with an electric choke. You won't need it.
I discovered the tube in mine was rotted since I was using a stock heat sourced choke. I had an odd exhaust leak so I ended up pulling the manifold to replace the tube.

 

[miker98038]

I don’t disagree with anything above. Two thoughts. One, there’s been reports of rebuilt Cardone distributors being the wrong body/length. A stock distributor can use a Pertronixs or the Ford Duraspark. Look over at Yblocks forever.

Two, before you just go order a Holley, look around a bit and do some research. There’s a lot of guys that like the 4100 series Autolite, and Summit Racing has a new carb, different but similar in appearance. And there’s also the 1405/1406 style Edelbrock. I’m not knocking Holley, but street tuning for drivability is often easier with other carbs.

 

[scicala]

I agree, an Autolite 4100 is a good choice and easy to work on. There are a lot of affordable ones on EBAY to rebuild yourself, plus the rebuild kits for them are inexpensive. I also agree, that the Autolite 4100 and Edelbrock carbs are more street friendly and easier to tune (Edelbrock can be calibrated from the outside without taking apart).


Sal

 

[Bleach]

A 4100 is what I got and I'm happy enough I have it though I wish I got a slighter "newer" one than the 1957 version I have now.

 

[paul2748]

In my 56, I still run the teapot with the A manifold. It has been modified to work with a 57 distributor which I have (with Pertronix). The teapot was rebuilt by an expert in teapots (now deceased). The car runs great.

My carb is the correct carb for a 56 Bird (numbers matching). They are different than the sedan carbs, although I don't how much different

I tried to contact another rebuilder (Ford Barn contributor) who says he does teapots, but he never got back to me.

 

[zuburg]

DMSFRR, You never cease to amaze me with your photos that are so helpful.

 

[zuburg]

As I look further at this possible upgrade, it appears my 1956 air cleaner assembly won't fit the 1957 or later carb? So something else to buy to make this change? What kind of air filter do most people use when making this change? Something like this one?

 

[dmsfrr]

As I look further at this possible upgrade, it appears my 1956 air cleaner assembly won't fit the 1957 or later carb? So something else to buy to make this change? What kind of air filter do most people use when making this change? Something like this one?

Correct, an air cleaner housing for a teapot won't fit the newer carbs.
With the lack of clearance under a T-Bird hood your choice is obviously important.
And a 1/2 inch thick phenolic plastic heat spacer under the carb is a good idea too.

Look for a 'low clearance' style air cleaner housing that fits the carb you select.
The one in the NPD link seems like a pretty safe bet.

I was lucky enough to have an oem '57 Bird air cleaner on mine so I haven't looked for something different. As a caution tho... it didn't fit right on the 60's Autolite carb that was on the engine.

Due to the low hood height the oem air cleaner sits slightly lower 'around' the carb rather than mostly above it.
The choke thermostat housing on the 60's carb was higher up on the side than an oem '57 Bird carb, so someone whacked a half inch deep dimple into the base of the air cleaner to make it fit. Not the best choice.

Disclaimer: The hood isn't on my '55 yet so I'm still hoping it fits too.
Use a softly wadded up ball of alum foil taped to the top (and/or left & right sides) of the air cleaner to check for clearance while carefully closing the hood.

Some real-world examples of what air cleaner housings fit under the hood, and on what carb, will hopefully appear in the comments from others below.

 

[KULTULZ]

As I look further at this possible upgrade, ...

Let me ask if I may...

You are not concerned with originality but just want a dependable driver?

 

[zuburg]

I prefer original, but I already have a non-original engine and transmission, so I'm not sure it matters now? I have sunk so much $$$ in this already, I was hoping for a less expensive air cleaner option, at least until I can recover and afford $400-500 for a correct one. My near term plan is for a driver to enjoy and do cruise-ins. I would like to keep the original parts for a possible future owner, but if the value is already reduced significantly, I could use the funds from selling original intake, carb and air cleaner to offset these "upgrades".

Will upgrading the intake and carb to a 1957 and up hurt the value of a 1956 that already has a different engine/transmission? Would future buyers consider this a plus or a negative?

 

[zuburg]

So what kind of choke does the teapot carb have and the 1957 and later carbs?

 

[KULTULZ]

As I look further at this possible upgrade, it appears my 1956 air cleaner assembly won't fit the 1957 or later carb? So something else to buy to make this change? What kind of air filter do most people use when making this change?

Something like this one?

14" OD X 3" H

Maybe consider this one- C5ZZ 9600-W REPRO

It is 14' OD and only 2.61" H and is a later style FORD open ACL. IMO, it will make a cleaner upgrade.

It also takes the 57 BIRD replacement element so it will fit a 57 ECZ-B changeover easily.

-Scott Drake Air Cleaners C5ZZ-9600-W

-

 

[miker98038]

You go buy a cheap 8” or so aircleaner and just use the base and the filter. You cut the bottom off the oem air cleaner, secure the polished top with 3 sheet metal screws from the underside (not visible when installed) and use the oem shell for the top. Next week I’ll be back where the car is, I can send measurements if you pm me.

 

[KULTULZ]

I prefer original, but I already have a non-original engine and transmission, so I'm not sure it matters now? I have sunk so much $$$ in this already, I was hoping for a less expensive air cleaner option, at least until I can recover and afford $400-500 for a correct one.

My near term plan is for a driver to enjoy and do cruise-ins. I would like to keep the original parts for a possible future owner, but if the value is already reduced significantly, I could use the funds from selling original intake, carb and air cleaner to offset these "upgrades".

Will upgrading the intake and carb to a 1957 and up hurt the value of a 1956 that already has a different engine/transmission? Would future buyers consider this a plus or a negative?

So what kind of choke does the teapot carb have and the 1957 and later carbs?

If you save all of the take-off parts as to where it can be made original, it should not (IMO) hurt the re-sale value.

As or the choke, whatever replacement carb you decide on should come through with an electric choke or you can add an electric choke kit.