PPG Epoxy Primers

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Beecher

Member
Long story short, Ive used a few, and NOTHING comes close to the PPG DP90LF in my books, Im not a professional painter, I just much prefer the way it sprays, mixes, and stands up to abuse, namely sanding the filler.

But Im confused. I might end up painting a car in white, so I wanted to use the PPG DP48LF. Its the exact same line as the 90, except white, not black. BUT, in the specs, its the ONLY DPLF that doesnt say "non sanding" why is that? and what exactly do they mean when the say "non Sanding"? Its also the only one that says "non chrome" what does it all mean?

Maybe I should go with the light grey because it says all the same stuff that the black I love says? Has anyone used multiple colours of the DPLF, have you noticed any difference?

Thanks!
 
Hi,

The DP Epoxy is designed to be sprayed wet on wet, witch means spray one to two medium coats of epoxy then spray a 2-3 coats of 2K sandable primer once the epoxy tacks up usually within a half hour. The DP if sanded will gum up the sand paper.

Todd
 
As stated above the DP epoxy is designed to be top coated without the need for sanding, which is why they call it "non sanding". The only spec sheet I found for it is P-196 which covers all the colors. Are you reading the specs off the side of the can?
From P-196, it can be re coated up to a week; after that it needs to be sanded before re coating, and by that time it sands a little better:
 

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ah, non sanding means "dont have to sand if resprayed right away" gotcha, which I knew, but the term "non sanding" was throwing me off. lol

Ive seen p-196, but where I getting it from was

http://us.ppgrefinish.com/PPG-Refinish/Products/Automotive-Refinish/Deltron

if you look down the list of "primers and sealers" (its probably closed when you follow the link), its description differs from the rest. Just wondering if it was because they only had so much room, and opted for `non chrome`instead of `non sanding" but then, why is "non chrome" important??

Ive emailed them, but not heard back yet, guess I just want to make sure the white is a non sanding just like the rest.
 
I think what they are referring to is that the white is a non chromate primer, which seems to be important for users that are concerned with toxicity.
 
In most cases these company's that make the product usually have a technical help line, this would clear any confusion you may have before using their product and you'd be getting it from the source.
 
Speaking of primers...:)

Is the epoxy primer the first light coat to be put down?...I thought there was some "rust preventative" primer that was to be lightly applied...referred to as etching primer?, then epoxy primer over it to seal it?

I know this has nothing to do with the original question, but figured while there were some painters in the room;)
 
The DP is made for bare metal it is a great product. as stated earlier if you don't apply filler or other topcoats within 7 day's you must sand and reapply another coat.
 
from what I can tell, its can go straight on steel. Aluminum does still need an etching primer first. There are some etch primers, even PPG ones, that it says to NOT put over tho. I have always applied it to bare steel with good results :)
 
I am from California. We out here used to have DP primers ,they took away the zinc which was one of the things that made the primer good. I'm just curious where you guys are buying DP is it the same as we had in California or it is or is it the replacement DP?
 
I I guess I am recovering from a little brain fade. We used to have DP primer. They took all of the good stuff out. And change the name to DP LF primer. Not as good as the original but okay. Is that the one which one are you guys not in California using?
 
They used to supply better info on metal prep. Epoxy does not require an etch primer, but there are a couple of prep products that may be needed for best results. They are sprayed on with a squirt bottle and then rinsed with water. Can't remember the details, but I believe there is a metal prep and a metal cleaner. They contain phosphoric or some other acid, which is needed for etching if you are spraying on cold rolled steel. If the steel has been media blasted, the etching is not needed. They will leave the surface with a phosphate coating which is supposed to help prevent rust, like the e-coat used on new cars. There is a different prep product needed if you are spraying on bare aluminum.
Larry
 
whizzernick said:
I I guess I am recovering from a little brain fade. We used to have DP primer. They took all of the good stuff out. And change the name to DP LF primer. Not as good as the original but okay. Is that the one which one are you guys not in California using?
Click to expand...

I can still get DPLF here in Iowa.
 
it was my understanding the LF stood for low filler. Because its not meant to fill pits or holes or anything like that.

I heard back from the tech dept, and all the DPLF line is exactly the same. Guess they just wanted to confuse me for fun lol
 
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