powermaster 6 volt alternator install 1928 model a
- Thread starter BIGBUCK
- Start date
rotorwrench
Well-known member
The horn and light switch wires will connect to the terminal that is the power output for the alternator. The manufacturer should have instructions for which terminal that is. My old one wire 6-volt conversion alternator just uses the single terminal that has the stud and nut. It grounded through the engine mounting. Part of the conversion internally jumpered the output for positive ground.
Is this a positive ground alternator?
Looking at the powermaster catalog page 62, it shows the two locations where a ground can be placed. The cut out is for looks only since it is not functional. It should be the location of the output. It appears that it would connect to the front cut out terminal since it doesn't go into the case. Either end could be power output the way it looks. The faux cut out should carry output to appear as the normal output but I don't know for sure since some old powerhouse units were set up for a rear terminal to connect and later ones connected to the front terminal.
Is this a positive ground alternator?
Looking at the powermaster catalog page 62, it shows the two locations where a ground can be placed. The cut out is for looks only since it is not functional. It should be the location of the output. It appears that it would connect to the front cut out terminal since it doesn't go into the case. Either end could be power output the way it looks. The faux cut out should carry output to appear as the normal output but I don't know for sure since some old powerhouse units were set up for a rear terminal to connect and later ones connected to the front terminal.
Last edited:
mhsprecher
Well-known member
Attach the wires to the front of the "cutout." Powermaster should tell you how to do that. That is how I did it my 28.
TomInCologne
Senior Member
TomInCologne
Senior Member
I changed it against a 30A-meter, but more because my original 20A-meter fell apart. i have a new Optima battery and after start, my chargecurrent is about 12 A, later, when the battery is recharged, the chargecurrent drops to about 2A.
What fan belt did you use? I just bought one and can’t find a belt that works. Thanks Tom! That picture does help as I was also wondering where to hook up the wires. I call power master and asked them about the wires and fan belt! Didn’t get much help. You would think that the company who designed and manufactured the item would have more information and better instructions that they do! I have tried about 12 belts. Either to long or short and changing the belt width didn’t help either! Any help on the belt would be greatly appreciated!
stevemclark
Senior Member
Is your alternator pulley correct for the Model A?
TomInCologne
Senior Member
I had ordered a standard fan belt from Snyders but i cannot find the parts number. It fit without any problems.
Dino's A
Senior Member
I just installed a 6v Powermaster Alternator.
I thought the instructions they give you are not too clear /detailed.
Here is what I did when I installed mine-
1. Horn wire & light wire go in the front terminal. It's a 1/4" terminal so you might
have to cut & use a terminal connector that's bigger than what you probably have.
2. Run the power wire up to the terminal box like the old one & run a new wire
from the other side of the terminal box down to your fuse that's on top of the starter.
Use the recommended #8 wire in both wires. If your confused on this, you are only
changing the wires you already have with your generator.
POWERMASTER says not to do this. They say to run that powerwire straight to your
battery. I called them and asked them why? I want it run like the regular & only way
I've seen systems that are always run through a amp meter. The answer I got was that
the amp meter might not like it. Uhh....OK, thanks? Use asphalt loom if you want to hide it better and look more original.
I have a 30 amp, ammeter, but a 20 should be fine. The alternator has never gone past 15 amps just after startup. It takes about a minute or so to come back to zero.
3. You need to ground the alternator. I used the bottom bolt of the alternator,
and ran it underneath it to a bolt on the timing cover. Use the vintage loom and
you'll be hard pressed to notice it.
4. The mounting brace for the unit uses a bolt on the timing cover.
The bracket was not designed perfectly and when it's mounted to the cover,
it rubs part of the cover. I might grind it later & make it right. Note: the bolt
& the alternator surface for your ground MUST be cleaned as some of the powder
coating of the bolt and alternator were present on mine.
5. Standard belt size should work, but it's going to be close. I had to loosen a hose
& shift the clamp because the screw part of the clamp was hitting it!
6. When you are using any wire connectors in this project, I highly recommend soldering after you crimp. I had to remove the plastic coating material off the
connectors, so I can solder them up. Before you crimp & solder, slip on a little
shrink tubing to cover the joint.
I took that instruction sheet that came with the unit and wrote some suggestions
that might help future customers, but they probably didn't care.
The alternator works great and looks almost like a generator.
I thought the instructions they give you are not too clear /detailed.
Here is what I did when I installed mine-
1. Horn wire & light wire go in the front terminal. It's a 1/4" terminal so you might
have to cut & use a terminal connector that's bigger than what you probably have.
2. Run the power wire up to the terminal box like the old one & run a new wire
from the other side of the terminal box down to your fuse that's on top of the starter.
Use the recommended #8 wire in both wires. If your confused on this, you are only
changing the wires you already have with your generator.
POWERMASTER says not to do this. They say to run that powerwire straight to your
battery. I called them and asked them why? I want it run like the regular & only way
I've seen systems that are always run through a amp meter. The answer I got was that
the amp meter might not like it. Uhh....OK, thanks? Use asphalt loom if you want to hide it better and look more original.
I have a 30 amp, ammeter, but a 20 should be fine. The alternator has never gone past 15 amps just after startup. It takes about a minute or so to come back to zero.
3. You need to ground the alternator. I used the bottom bolt of the alternator,
and ran it underneath it to a bolt on the timing cover. Use the vintage loom and
you'll be hard pressed to notice it.
4. The mounting brace for the unit uses a bolt on the timing cover.
The bracket was not designed perfectly and when it's mounted to the cover,
it rubs part of the cover. I might grind it later & make it right. Note: the bolt
& the alternator surface for your ground MUST be cleaned as some of the powder
coating of the bolt and alternator were present on mine.
5. Standard belt size should work, but it's going to be close. I had to loosen a hose
& shift the clamp because the screw part of the clamp was hitting it!
6. When you are using any wire connectors in this project, I highly recommend soldering after you crimp. I had to remove the plastic coating material off the
connectors, so I can solder them up. Before you crimp & solder, slip on a little
shrink tubing to cover the joint.
I took that instruction sheet that came with the unit and wrote some suggestions
that might help future customers, but they probably didn't care.
The alternator works great and looks almost like a generator.
I also got a belt from Snyders. It’s 43 inches and the part number is 3420. It’s just to long as I still hit the radiator hose. Tried a 42 inch one and it’s too short. Can’t get it on the pulley. The pulley size might be wrong but it’s the one they sell for a 6 volt pos ground model a. You would think they would put the right one on.
Apperloo
Member
Is this the unit in this discussion?
"Specifically designed for the 1928-31 Ford Model A
It is designed for a 6 volt system with a positive ground
Alternator puts out 50 amps at idle, 55 amps when cruising, and 60 amps at top end"
"Specifically designed for the 1928-31 Ford Model A
It is designed for a 6 volt system with a positive ground
Alternator puts out 50 amps at idle, 55 amps when cruising, and 60 amps at top end"
