powerhouse generator bearings

M

moasew

Senior Member
I've cleaned and dried up my PH bearings (with paint thinner)and they seem tight but what should I relubricate them with? I know there is at least the front sealed bearing available but if I don't need to buy one why bother.
 
Re-placing the bearings with sealed bearings will keep the generator much cleaner on the inside and well worth the cost and effort.

Ron
 
I seldom replace the powerhouse bearings, unless the customer asks for sealed bearings, or in the rare case that they actually need to be replaced. I pack the bearings with Mystik JT-6 High Temp red grease. I put some in the cavity between the bearings also, but not so much that it pushes out the ends. Sealed bearings are also fine, if that's what you want.
 
Tom, do you want to rebuild some powerhouse generators for me. I have many of them, but nobody out here that will build them so I can sell them. Email me if you are interested. No hurry.

Steve Becker
Bert's Model A Center
Parts@modelastore.com
 
If you choose to replace the bearings, the smaller bearing is the same as the pilot shaft bearing in the flywheel. The larger is a 6203.2RSR.C3 (*** Bearing number.)
 
OK thanks guys for all your help.I don't planning on touring with this car and the bearings are in great shape.I'll put some grease in them and hope for the best.It's easy to remove if I need to.
 
Thanks Gary:

I was wondering where to get the smaller bearing as it doesn't seem to be listed in the sources I've checked.Only the larger bearing is listed.However I'll go with greasing for now as it takes a couple of weeks to get parts.
 
Re Mike's question for touring...if I lived in Florida and could depend on great weather every day I might consider it. I know we should be driving our cars but with all the work to restore them and make them look like new I'd like to keep it that way for at least a few shows:)
 
Here is the information I have for Power House Gen Bearings
Front Bearing *** 6204.2RSR.C3 Dayton & Grainger #1ZGH4 NTN 6204LLBC3/L627 Grainger 6L026 Bore 20mm Outside Diameter 47mm Width 14mm
Rear Bearing FAG6203.2RSR.C3 Dayton & Grainger #1ZGH3 NTN 6203LLBC3/L627 Grainger 6L025 Bore 17mm Outside Diameter 40mm Width 12mm
These bearings are sealed instead of the open type.
 
All you need to know is the front bearing is 6204 and the rear bearing is 6203.
The rear bearing is the same as the front bearing used on the long generator.
I find buying the bearings from the Model A parts houses, such as Bert's, Bratton's, and Snyder's is usually cheaper than buying them from a bearing or car parts store.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
All you need to know is the front bearing is 6204 and the rear bearing is 6203.
The rear bearing is the same as the front bearing used on the long generator.
I find buying the bearings from the Model A parts houses, such as Bert's, Bratton's, and Snyder's is usually cheaper than buying them from a bearing or car parts store.
Click to expand...
They both are common and any alternator shop will have them. I buy 6203 in 100 lot, perhaps the most common bearing ever made. 6204 is used in many applications also..
 
All great info guys .Thanks ! My original well greased bearings are installed but they weren't as tight as I'd like them to be in the housing.They are tight on the shaft. So I dimpled the housing all the way around where the bearings seat but now the shaft won't turn with fingers. I have to thread a bolt in the shaft and with slight pressure the shaft will turn. Is this normal and would dimpling tighten up the bearing itself? I also had trouble trying to get the dust cap off at the brush end of the generator so I left it in place.
 
moasew said:
All great info guys .Thanks ! My original well greased bearings are installed but they weren't as tight as I'd like them to be in the housing.They are tight on the shaft. So I dimpled the housing all the way around where the bearings seat but now the shaft won't turn with fingers. I have to thread a bolt in the shaft and with slight pressure the shaft will turn. Is this normal and would dimpling tighten up the bearing itself? I also had trouble trying to get the dust cap off at the brush end of the generator so I left it in place.
Click to expand...

Many years ago when the earth was young, and I was still an apprentice, we used to tin (solder) the outside of bearings to tighten them up in housings. Dimpling may have messed up the alignment of the generator.
 
The dust cap on the inside end of the shaft is factory crimped in place and CAN'T be removed. I seem to recall someone mentioned it should be removed, but that is wrong. There should be a thin cork gasket between the rear bearing and dust cap. That gasket is held in place by the dust cap, but if someone destroyed the gasket trying to remove it then you must cut another one to slip in place. Without the gasket the shaft cam move in and out, and it should be spring loaded with zero fore and aft play. The spring is the spring washer under the serrated nut that is screwed onto the front of the case.

If you tried to pound out the dust cap and bent it, I hope you pounded it back into shape, or you may have end play on the shaft.
 
Tom, what is the tool w/the aluminum(?) handle and the round strap for? It looks like it may fit the 6204 bearing.
Tnx, Ken
 

Attachments

  • Powerhouse gen parts.jpg
    Powerhouse gen parts.jpg
    5.3 KB · Views: 110
That tool is to remove and install the special serrated nut holding the bearings in place.

I made it using some steel banding strap and aluminum bar stock. Also note the steel bar with a pointed edge to grip the serrations.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top