PowerHouse Gen Bearings

jrelliott

jrelliott

Well-known member
While rebuilding my Powerhouse Gen, needed a new front bearing.
Found Grainger carries sealed bearings for both front and rear.
Front Bearing *** 6204.2RSR.C3 Dayton & Grainger #1ZGH4 or NTN 6204LLBC3/L627 Grainger # 6L026 (Bore 20mm Outside Dia 47mm width 14mm)
Rear Bearing *** 6203.2RSR.C3 Dayton & Grainger# 1ZGH3 or NTN 6203LLBC3/L627 Grainger #6L025 ( Bore 17mm Outside Dia 40mm width 12mm)
 
How are the prices, as I don't have a Grainger catalog. Unless you are ordering a lot of bearings at a very good price, I've always found the best buys are from the Model A parts houses, such as Bert's, Bratton's, Snyder's, etc. I usually find I need a few other parts at the same time anyway.
 
The Dayton 1ZGH3(Mase in china) is $6.98, NTN 6203 is $9.76 (made in Canada)
The Dayton 1ZGH4(Made in China) is $8.99, NTN 6204 is 12.18(made in Tiawan)
Will be in Phoenix later this week and can pick the bearings up at the store. Shipping and Processing add a lot to the cost when ordering from parts houses. Just thought would pass on the info. The closest Model A parts house is Arizona Model A which is a lot farther down the road and the price of gas.
 
Try a local alternator shop. I charge $2.50 for 6203. The 6204 is a bit more. I doubt over $4.50.
Now some may not be happy with me but many times you can pop the seal and repack them. Unless you are driving 10k miles a year you'd be surprised how long they can go. I buy 203's in 100 lots or more. The most common bearing on the planet I do believe. Save the shipping charges. If you repack do not use use too much grease. I just checked with my supplier (on line). A 204 with synthetic grease cost less than a small cup of coffee.
 
I used to get my bearings from a local rebuilder, we had a good relationship, I didn't bring him any cores to rebuild, he would sell me any parts I needed and I also would fix all the French starter field windings for him ---sometimes I would look in the bucket of used takeoff bearings at several rebuilders (5 for 1$)and pop the seals, clean and regrease -(my generator still has a relubed bearing I put in 40 years ago)--now I usually buy new of the common bearings, I have used Enco, Reid supply, Fastenal, ---when Enco has free shipping I will add a few to the order to make the min$ for shipping, another place-- http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/CTGY/Auto-Outdoor-Bearing --don't know their shipping, I had work order some to fix a lift
 
You mention that you have a Powerhouse Generator? I have a 1928 AR with a Powerhouse (pancake) generator. A quick question. With the cutout removed, and the engine running, I get no voltage output from the copper stud that the cutout switch connects to. I am testing from the stud to the generator shell as a ground. Is this the proper way to test if the generator is putting out Voltage? Should I be getting at least 20 volts DC from this stud to ground? The brushes look good, the copper has been cleaned on the rotor. I can only see the rear part of the windings, and they do not look burned. I tested the stud to the brushes with a continuity tester, it appears the stud and brushes are grounded. What further test can I do? Are my windings grounded at some point? This is a three brush type generator, without a moving/adjustable third brush.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top