Power window conversion in 41 Ford 1/2 ton PU
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Angledrive
Senior Member
These are the best and most expensive.
https://www.nu-relics.com/Ford-Trucks-s/443.htm
https://www.nu-relics.com/Ford-Trucks-s/443.htm
convert 40
Member
I too would highly recommend the nu-relics regs.
I put them on our 32-3window. They bolt in like the factory regs. & work perfectly. The hardest part is running the wiring thru the door jam.
You need something (spring) that the wiring can move in a little bit.
Good luck
Rick R
Napa, Ca.
I put them on our 32-3window. They bolt in like the factory regs. & work perfectly. The hardest part is running the wiring thru the door jam.
You need something (spring) that the wiring can move in a little bit.
Good luck
Rick R
Napa, Ca.
blucar
Well-known member
I have Nu-Relic power window in my '39 conv coupe. They are well engineered using a newly manufactured operator assembly with GM motors and switches,, No plastic belts/tracts etc. A little on the pricey side but worth every dime .
The Nu-Relics have been in my car since 1994, they work like factory windows, very fast and smooth.
The Nu-Relics have been in my car since 1994, they work like factory windows, very fast and smooth.
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
I have Nu-Relics in my '55 Ranchwagon. They bolt in where your stock regulators where. Hardest part is running the wiring as I installed electric locks at the same time.
TJ
Well-known member
Thanks for all the great responses! It looks like I am going to do the Nu-relic brand. I have some basic mechanic skills, do you think I'll manage to screw this up if I attempt the install myself?
Just follow the instructions and you'll be fine.
blucar
Well-known member
When I was in the process of installing the Nu-Relic electric windows in my 39 convertible, I had to send the original window regulators to Nu-Relics, they made new regulators that were an exact duplicate to the original regulators, the difference being that the new regulators were modified to accept the GM motor assembly.
The one problem I had was that the doors for the early model vehicles are not built strong enough to accommodate the added torque that the electric windows puts on the doors.
I had also added electric bear claws door latches which added to the torque within the door.
Within a few months I noted that the lower portion of my doors was protruding beyond the 'B' pillar/rear quarter panel, and that the doors were not closing smoothly.
We took the doors apart, fabricated some struts out of steel, which were attached within the doors once the doors were pulled back into alignment. Problem solved the doors close like a refrigerator with hardly a sound.
Foot note: I installed "Road-Kil" (Dana-Mat) to the inner side of the outer door panel prior to installing the window operators.
The windows in a '39 convertible coupe are very heavy, Stainless Steel framed similar to a later model vehicle.
The one problem I had was that the doors for the early model vehicles are not built strong enough to accommodate the added torque that the electric windows puts on the doors.
I had also added electric bear claws door latches which added to the torque within the door.
Within a few months I noted that the lower portion of my doors was protruding beyond the 'B' pillar/rear quarter panel, and that the doors were not closing smoothly.
We took the doors apart, fabricated some struts out of steel, which were attached within the doors once the doors were pulled back into alignment. Problem solved the doors close like a refrigerator with hardly a sound.
Foot note: I installed "Road-Kil" (Dana-Mat) to the inner side of the outer door panel prior to installing the window operators.
The windows in a '39 convertible coupe are very heavy, Stainless Steel framed similar to a later model vehicle.