power steering power control valve
- Thread starter terry_208
- Start date
KULTULZ
Well-known member
- INQUIRE WITHIN -
- https://www.stangerssite.com/CVrebuilding.html
If you decide to go the box store rebuild route, consider holding onto the old valve as it is much better quality than new off-shore replacements.
Merc Cruzer
Well-known member
This might be of some assistance:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/show...VUhJR59KincpR1CeMmbUBem68_Uq3XQRhwPUGJ1GqEwv0
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/show...VUhJR59KincpR1CeMmbUBem68_Uq3XQRhwPUGJ1GqEwv0
Daves55Sedan
Well-known member
Lares Manufacturing has rebuilt all my power steering pumps, control valves and ram cylinders in the past. Fairly top notch outfit
Jwawhite
Well-known member
Control Valve Malady
Rebuilding the Valve today and came across this:
The STOP SCREW is not flush with the SOCKET TUBE after tightening, I'd say it's about 2/8" away at a hard stop. It was this way upon disassembly and the same with new cups, spring, stop plug, and stud. The pin is out from the socket tube but covered when the assembled unit is pushed down in the Control Valve Sleeve. Does this matter?
Rebuilding the Valve today and came across this:
The STOP SCREW is not flush with the SOCKET TUBE after tightening, I'd say it's about 2/8" away at a hard stop. It was this way upon disassembly and the same with new cups, spring, stop plug, and stud. The pin is out from the socket tube but covered when the assembled unit is pushed down in the Control Valve Sleeve. Does this matter?
Jwawhite
Well-known member
I reviewed the Video on-line about rebuilding a 67? Mustang Control Valve, same story, the Stop Screw was not flush with the Socket Tube either. That's the way it is.
Assembly went well today, will install the unit some time next week and see if it leaks
The Valve body on sleeve side, larger opening side, the rubber o ring has to fit down on the cam shaft or the aluminum spacer does not fit flush.. if not flush, the spacer and Inside circumference spring will not be down enough to attach the Socket Tube. I used the pic tool 'Hook' using the smooth outside bend to push the o ring down the shaft.
The Service Manual reads Type A Fluid for the system, I read that a 50/50 mixture of Type F and Dextron replicate Type A.
Assembly went well today, will install the unit some time next week and see if it leaks
The Valve body on sleeve side, larger opening side, the rubber o ring has to fit down on the cam shaft or the aluminum spacer does not fit flush.. if not flush, the spacer and Inside circumference spring will not be down enough to attach the Socket Tube. I used the pic tool 'Hook' using the smooth outside bend to push the o ring down the shaft.
The Service Manual reads Type A Fluid for the system, I read that a 50/50 mixture of Type F and Dextron replicate Type A.
KULTULZ
Well-known member
The WSM was printed in 1956. Lubricants have changed drastically since then. TYPE A and TYPE A/SUFFIX A are long gone. DO NOT USE TYPE F unless the WSM or OWNERS MANUAL CALLS FOR IT.
The replacement FORD fluid is now MERCON V but it is a synthetic. You need to find a GOOD QUALITY DEXRON III (non-syn).