To answer a couple of questions about about touch-up. To begin with, if something chips (sprayed, brushed, or powder), then there is either an adhesion issue, -or a mil thickness issue. Just so we are clear, paint on modern vehicles do not chip when driven down rocky roads. So if you are experiencing chipping, it isn't the type of product that is the issue.
In years past, we often touch-up powder paint by using the original powder mixed with fast drying enamel reducer into a slurry. This was applied to the chipped area and then we used a heat gun to melt the plastic. Like sprayed 2K paint, powder paint can be color-sanded & buffed to a sheen.
I have told this story here before but I will share it in a condensed version. Years ago when we were powder-painting in-house, we often used aluminum foil to mask areas such as spindles or bearing surfaces on king pins, holes in axles, etc. The powder would overspray onto the aluminum foil and go thru the curing process in our oven. One day, the PPG rep came to the shop and I was trying to be sarcastic when I asked him 'How come y'all can't make sprayable paint as durable as powder paint?'. His answer was "We do.". I asked how come we can't get it. He said you are already using it. He said your DCC9300 was just as durable. I crumpled the powder-painted aluminum foil and spread it back out and the paint did not chip off of the foil. He told me to dip some aluminum foil into the liquid paint the next time we had leftover paint in the gun and allow it to dry. Sure enough, we could crumple that foil that was dipped into the liquid paint and it stayed adhered after we crumpled it and smoothed out the foil. So the truth is, it is not that one is stronger or more durable than the other paint. It is the mil thickness and surface preparation that dictates the durability. Again, think about modern vehicles that drive on gravel roads without succumbing to paint chips.
If you painted the part to begin with, you would have matching paint (or at least the #).
