Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)

nkaminar

Well-known member
Positive Crankcase Ventilation​

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What is it​

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Positive Crankcase Ventilation, or PCV, is a method of removing vapors and moisture from the crankcase of an engine by sucking them out using vacuum from the intake manifold. Fresh air is sucked into the crankcase to dilute the vapors. ​

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Why is it important​

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There are two functions that are important for a Model A engine. ​

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First, it sucks out the blow-by that passes the piston rings that contains combustion products and unburnt fuel. The blow-by is corrosive and contaminates the oil, reducing the useful life of the oil and, more importantly, the useful life of the engine. Every piston engine has some degree of blow-by. Water in the blow-by is supplied from the combustion process and forms acid in the oil. Moisture also enters the crankcase through diurnal temperature changes and can form acid even if the engine is never started. The moisture and other blow-by gasses that condense into the oil are a source of sludge. The oil in a Model A or B engine never gets hot enough to fully evaporate the moisture in the oil. ​

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Second, it reduces the pressure in the crankcase to below atmospheric pressure and thus reduces or eliminates aggravating leaks. No more oil spots on my garage floor after I installed my PCV system. ​

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Although properly designed road tubes, that extend into the airstream below the car, can carry away a lot of the vapors and oil mist, the Model A does not come with this system. The road tube system usually has a means of supplying fresh air to the crankcase using a scoop and the air from the fan to push the air in. With a PCV system, the vapors and oil mist are burned in the engine and not just dumped into the environment. ​

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History​

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The PCV system was initially used on tank engines during WWII to prevent water from entering the engines through the road tube when fording rivers. In the 1950’s it was discovered that the emissions from vehicle engines was a major cause of smog. In the early 1960’s the PCV system was mandated on new vehicles in the United States. ​

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The PCV system adapted to Model A use was presented in a seminar at the MAFCA national meet in Pendleton, Oregon on June 2, 2026 by Gary Bartman. I used his article, below, as a reference for my PCV system on my 1930 sedan. My system is the same as he published with the exception of the fittings and a different bracket. ​

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PCV system as applied to a Model A or B Ford engine ​

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Figures are at the end of the article.​

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Figure 1 is a schematic of how the PCV system works on a Model A or B engine. ​

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The heart of the PCV system is the PCV valve. When the engine is idling the vacuum in the intake manifold is high and the flow from the crankcase must be restricted in order for the engine to idle correctly. When under load, with the throttle open, the flow can be increased because the vacuum is less and engine performance is not effected, as long as the flow from the crankcase is not too much. The valve controls the flow during idling and the flow when the engine is operating under load with the throttle open. ​

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The flow from the PCV valve is fed to a tap at the center of the intake manifold. The center is used so that no cylinder is overwhelmed. ​

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The fumes from the crankcase are sucked out of the vent tube using a sealed cap with a small tube. The fumes first go to to a catch container (can) that is designed to trap any oil that comes out with the fumes. This is necessary to prevent carbon buildup on the valves. The catch container must be emptied periodically. The catch can must be mounted using a bracket. ​

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Fresh air is supplied through a tap on the valve cover. The air is sucked through a filter so that foreign material does not enter the crankcase. The flow through the crankcase must be cross flow with fresh air entering opposite where the fumes are sucked out. ​

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All this is connected using automotive rubber hose. ​

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Parts used for the PCV system on a Model A or B engine​

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I am running a Burtz engine. I have drilled 1/8-inch holes in the bottom of each trough in the oil pan tray but others have drilled 1/2-inch holes. This keeps the oil mist down. The rods are pressure fed and do not need the dippers that stock engines use. ​

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Off-the-shelf PCV valves are designed for modern engines and will not work on a Model A or B engine. An adjustable valve must be used. I used the one that Gary Bartman used, a valve supplied by M/E Wagner Performance. See Figure 2. The flow at idle must be set and the transition from idle to flow under load adjusted. The flow under load is not adjustable. This is a quality valve. It is machined from aluminum bar stock. ​

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I also used the catch can that Gary Bartman used. It is from Trick Flow Specialities. The M/E Wagner valve sits in a gasketed hole in the top of the catch can (Air/Oil Separator) so that no extra plumbing is needed. See Figure 3. The catch can comes with a spigot at the bottom with a valve for draining the oil and a sight gauge half way up to know when it is time to empty the container. I welded up a bracket out of 1/4 thick mild steel that mounts to the two bolts that hold on the coolant inlet at the side of the engine, see Figure 4. ​

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I drilled and tapped a 1/4-18 NPT hole in my valve cover for fresh air inlet. I used a 45 degree elbow and an air filter I bought from Amazon. See Figure 5. ​

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The oil filler cap must be sealed except for the connection that runs to the catch can. I used one from MotoRad. It has an O ring for a tight seal in the stock tube. A little grease helps get it on and off. My friend who is using a B tube has a small tube welded to the side of the B tube to connect to the catch can. If you use this option be sure to find a cap that seals. See Figure 6. ​

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I am running a Weber down draft carburetor with an aluminum manifold. I tapped a 1/4-18 NPT hole in the bottom center of the manifold and am using a 90 degree elbow, see Figure 7. ​

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Adjusting the valve and performance​

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The valve comes with instructions and the Allen wrenches and fittings needed. It was easy to adjust but took a few tries. You have to supply your own vacuum gauge. My car pulls 20 inches of vacuum at idle. ​

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The performance was unaffected by the addition of the PCV system. The catch can and valve got hot after a short test drive (a couple miles) so I knew the system was working. The catch can caught about a half tea spoon of oil during the short test drive so I know the catch can will be important and will require checking at each fill-up. The B tube may be better in this regard. I had to richen up the idle air/fuel mixture a tad due to the small amount of flow from the PCV valve. ​

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Let me know if you decide to use this on your car. And let me know if you have any questions. ​

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Attachments

  • Figure 1, PCV System Schematic.jpg
    Figure 1, PCV System Schematic.jpg
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  • Figure 2, M:E Wagner Performance Dual Adjustable PCV Valve.jpg
    Figure 2, M:E Wagner Performance Dual Adjustable PCV Valve.jpg
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  • Figure 3, Trick Flow Specialities Air:Oil Separator (Catch Can) with PCV Valve.jpg
    Figure 3, Trick Flow Specialities Air:Oil Separator (Catch Can) with PCV Valve.jpg
    13.8 KB · Views: 88
  • Figure 4, Catch Can Bracket.jpg
    Figure 4, Catch Can Bracket.jpg
    8.6 KB · Views: 51
  • Figure 5, Air Inlet Filter on Valve Cover.jpg
    Figure 5, Air Inlet Filter on Valve Cover.jpg
    27.9 KB · Views: 59
  • Figure 6, Sealed Oil Filler Cap with Fitting for PCV.jpg
    Figure 6, Sealed Oil Filler Cap with Fitting for PCV.jpg
    5.8 KB · Views: 45
  • Figure 7, Vacuum Fitting on Bottom of Weber Manifold.jpg
    Figure 7, Vacuum Fitting on Bottom of Weber Manifold.jpg
    32.7 KB · Views: 53
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I ran a PCV system on my A for thirty years using a generic parts store valve. They say that I should have used the valve specified for a Ford Falcon (small) engine. That valve is apparently no longer produced. I'll bet that if I had the right valve, I would have had a smoother idle and not had to open the GAV a little.

Now I am putting in a Burtz block. I have a Wagner adjustable PCV valve and agree with you that it seems to take care of all the issues. Their instructions are thorough. You adjust it for the size of the engine (which adjusts the airflow at idle) and you adjust the crossover point where the flow increases when the engine is off-idle.

I thought about using a catch can, but I will be using a Model B oil filler so that the separated oil will drain itself back into the pan. I had no issues for thirty years with oil being sucked through the PCV valve and the B filler is much taller and bigger diameter than the A filler I used previously. I'm hoping that this will work and save me having to remember to drain the catch can.

I will vent mine through the rear oil transfer tube opening in the side cover that is not needed with the Burtz block. A tube will rise up to a Moroso filter mounted on the firewall.

Thanks for writing this up. That diagram is worth a thousand words.
 
I ran a PCV system on my A for thirty years using a generic parts store valve. They say that I should have used the valve specified for a Ford Falcon (small) engine. That valve is apparently no longer produced. I'll bet that if I had the right valve, I would have had a smoother idle and not had to open the GAV a little.

Now I am putting in a Burtz block. I have a Wagner adjustable PCV valve and agree with you that it seems to take care of all the issues. Their instructions are thorough. You adjust it for the size of the engine (which adjusts the airflow at idle) and you adjust the crossover point where the flow increases when the engine is off-idle.

I thought about using a catch can, but I will be using a Model B oil filler so that the separated oil will drain itself back into the pan. I had no issues for thirty years with oil being sucked through the PCV valve and the B filler is much taller and bigger diameter than the A filler I used previously. I'm hoping that this will work and save me having to remember to drain the catch can.

I will vent mine through the rear oil transfer tube opening in the side cover that is not needed with the Burtz block. A tube will rise up to a Moroso filter mounted on the firewall.

Thanks for writing this up. That diagram is worth a thousand words.
 
As I have posted before, I have 4 MOdel As and those PCV valves at $US129 over there wpould cost me about $AU 250+ each by the time I have them. With 4 cars, that is at least $1,000. While they might be a good thing, that is too rich for me. I'll just keep emptying the janitor I made to catch the drips.
Thanks for the info.
 
I guess everyone has their own way of enjoying their Model A, and more power to them. One reason I enjoy my Model A is because it is simple, uncluttered and easy to work on. There's not much that can go wrong with it. I don't understand the impulse to add things that just complicate matters, like air and oil filters, electronic ignitions, alternators, downdraft carbs, PVC valves. They ran fine for decades without these "improvements". But that's just my opinion. It's your car, do whatever you like with it.
 
Great article and comments. Thank you. I would be interested in people’s thoughts on how to better hide the catch can under the hood. I am intrigued about using a larger (model b) oil fill tube and putting something inside that to help with the oil/vapour separation?????
 
Does your catch can fill up? Do you really need it? I would be a bit surprised if it collected much of anything unless your rings were pretty bad. Catch cans aren't used on factory PCV installations.
 
Couldn't you just drill a hole in the valve side cover, insert a grommet for the PCV valve?
If you were going to use the Rock Auto alternative. Would simplify some hose routing....


Doesn't the PCV system make the car run a little leaner or richer? I can't remember which....
 
I guess everyone has their own way of enjoying their Model A, and more power to them. One reason I enjoy my Model A is because it is simple, uncluttered and easy to work on. There's not much that can go wrong with it. I don't understand the impulse to add things that just complicate matters, like air and oil filters, electronic ignitions, alternators, downdraft carbs, PVC valves. They ran fine for decades without these "improvements". But that's just my opinion. It's your car, do whatever you like with it.



I agree with you.

At 100 years old, why do we think it needs improvement.
 
2-Speed, Air goes IN at the valve cover and vapors combined with the air comes OUT at the vent tube. The PCV valve controls the flow of the vapors from the crankcase vent tube going to the intake manifold. You do not want to stick the PCV in the valve cover.

I had to richen up my idle adjustment screw a little. It does not seem to effect performance when the throttle is open.
 
What difference does it make if the air swirls to the left or to the right?


On "modern" cars, like my '67 Galaxie, air goes into the oil filler cap, and the PCV is in the valve cover. Why would that not work on a Model A?
 
No difference if the flow goes left to right or right to left except that there is a lot of oil vapor and oil in the valve area of a Model A. So you would be sucking a lot of oil out.

"Modern" cars like your Galaxie have a baffle under where the valve mounts to keep oil from being sucked out. If you added a baffle to the valve cover then you could suck from there but it works better sucking from the vent tube because it has baffles that catch most of the oil. See the original article by Gary Bartman, https://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_178834022729610&key=478da9cdb93cd3bfc02976eee2c19bf0&libId=mtjv6y2j010025g6000UL1yrpiovs&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fordbarn.com%2Fforum%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D359658&v=1&out=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.beaverchapterford.org%2F_files%2Fugd%2Febca75_c21fe539d9f64e92a06dab70914b9bd2.pdf&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fordbarn.com%2Fforum%2Fforumdisplay.php%3Ff%3D3%26order%3Ddesc&title=Positive%20Crankcase%20Ventilation%20(PCV)%20-%20The%20Ford%20Barn&txt=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.beaverchapterford.org%2F_f...70914b9bd2.pdf

It is important to filter the air being sucked into the crankcase to keep dust and other things out. Most "modern" cars take the air after it goes through the induction air filter.
 
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I believe that the air is being sucked out of the crankcase and into the intake manifold, not into the crankcase. That’s the way it’s done on a “modern” car too.
 
I believe that the air is being sucked out of the crankcase and into the intake manifold, not into the crankcase. That’s the way it’s done on a “modern” car too.
 
I believe that the air is being sucked out of the crankcase and into the intake manifold, not into the crankcase. That’s the way it’s done on a “modern” car too.
 
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