Por 15

2

29rdstrpu!

Junior Member
Hi, I'm currently working on a 29 rpu I used por 15 on the frame and it is great! I'm getting ready to start on the rear end and was going to use it there too, then I began wondering if I wanted to use it on or not,worried about heat dissipation? Any thoughts? Thanks, Greg
 
Heat dissipation will not be an issue for you as long as the bearings have the proper preload and the Ring & Pinion is correctly set.
 
Right on. I drove my 28 Phaeton 18 miles on a warm summer day, then used my temp gun to shoot the rear end temp and found it to be only 5 degrees warmer than the air.

BTW, I'm not a fan of POR-15
 
Tom' Can you tell us why you are not a fan of POR 15. I don't like slamming a product but I like to know the down side before I make a costly mistake. Jack
 
My friend used it on his carb and it just had a thick goo look which I didn't like. It took away the cast iron detail. I've also had to work on a generator that had it on, and I had to use a sharp knife to remove it. It may be tough stuff and flexible, as I saw demonstrated, but I've also read reports on here of guys having rust form under it. I've been using PPG DP-90 primer and DCC-9000 top coat and like it. I sandblast the parts, then use wax and grease remover and paint right away. I top coat after the primer sets for a couple hours. I've only done a few parts, but like the way this works.

Here's a couple pictures of a rusty Autolite generator I restored that came from from a junk yard. Luckily all the rust was surface rust and left no pits in the metal. I used Rustoleum semi-gloss black, and like the looks of it. The name tag is just setting on top because I haven't restored the tag yet.
 

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Tom, sounds in a way like a plastic coating or an oil base wood exterier paint... a great sealant both outside and inside, e.g. hold water behind it as well.
 
I've used POR-15 and like the way it goes on and levels out. It will fade in sunlight so I sometimes top-coat it with another paint.
 
On my cars , have the frame sandblasted . Then paint with a two part black epoxy primer and then topcoat with Basecoat and then clearcoat . Is System has served me well . Miff
 
Thanks for your comments! I have some things to ponder now, I sandblasted my frame, then used KBS rust blast to neutralize the rust and etch the metal, then painted. I'm satisfied with it. Looks a lot better than it did!
 
FWIW: After experimenting for years with same, POR 15 will work just fine on Model A differentials, transmissions, cast iron brake drums, engines, engine heads, chassis, undercarriage, front axles, wishbones, undersides of fenders and running boards, brake rods, body wood, etc. etc.

In my opinion, after reading some discouraging comments, it appears that POR 15 is just not for everyone.

Some people can never succeed with making divinity fudge; others can never succeed with baking light loaves of bread; some will never learn to play Home Sweet Home on an harmonica either.

If one does not have the patience or the interest to experiment and to study and follow specific POR 15 detailed instructions to the letter, (including experimenting with the varying effects of high and low relative humidity), POR 15 will never work properly.

It can be top-coated with POR or other engine enamel, dull flat paint or glossy paint when applied as prescribed.

POR 15 technicians and salesmen will admit that professional painters fail the most when using POR 15 because they apply it like ordinary paint and omit chemical preparation and detailed "different" application instructions.
 
POR-15 is an epoxy paint product with excellent adhesion properties. Without a primer, POR-15 will adhere to rust and seal it off from further oxidation. POR-15 has excellent flow-out so it can be applied with a brush and when cured, it looks as if it were sprayed-on.

Coats of POR-15 need to be applied lightly by brushing in one direction without any overlap. A second coat is necessary for complete coverage. Wear gloves because POR-15 sticks to skin very well and may take a week to come off. You can thin and clean off POR-15 with ordinary lacquer thinner while the POR-15 is wet.

POR-15 Chassis Black will dull quickly when exposed to the Sun's ultraviolet light, so do not use this product on topside surfaces. It is excellent for the the frame and running gear. It also makes a good thread locker when coating bolts.

From experience, 2 quarts of POR-15 Chassis Black will do the frame, and running gear of a Model A Ford.

Do not open a can of POR-15 by its lid because it will shorten the paints shelf life. Instead and using an awl, punch two small holes in the bottom of the can 180 degrees apart and insert #10 thumb screws or sheet metal screws into each of the holes. I have had POR-15 cans last over two years this way.

When using POR-15, pour a small amount into a paper hot cup (without wax). A small amount of POR-15 goes a long way in coverage, so use it sparingly. Do not pour any unused POR-15 back into the can as it begins to cure immediately in the presence of moist warm air. Cure time is short (starts in minutes).

Assume that any brush you use to apply POR-15 will be a throwaway, so use the least expensive brushes you can find. Latex paint brushes with plastic bristles work, and use acid brushes to coat small items. It is possible to get more mileage out of brushes if you clean them well in lacquer thinner after each use. I toss them away after each use.

For surface prep, wire brush the metal bare or wire brush off flaking rust. Degrease and clean the item with inexpensive lacquer thinner. Wear throwaway gloves. If it rains on wet POR-15 it will develop water spots.

POR-15 comes in a Ford Engine Green color, but it does not match the engine green typically in use on Model A's today. I have not tried any POR-15 product designed to resist fading in sunlight.

The most extreme use of POR-15 Chassis Black on my Model A's has been to coat the sheet metal stampings inside of original radiator caps. The POR-15 has withstood the hot coolant and prevented further corrosion of the parts. It can also be applied to the blue and or plated bases of spark plugs to keep them from rusting.
 
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1. Might add if one lives in a very dry, arid region ............. or a very humid region, POR 15 list different cure times for different ambient temperature and also for different relative humidity; hence, in "extreme" temperatures and "extreme" humidity areas, it may never be a bad idea to refine POR's "General" information by creating a more detailed bar graph indicating more detailed values with increments of temperature and humidity relative to variable POR 15 cure times to obtain better results.

2. POR 15 applied in areas, or during hours of extremely high humidity, (like when raining in a humid area), can cause the most "rapid cure" problems because POR 15 is "extremely" moisture sensitive. Normal thin POR 15 can thicken like toothpaste rapidly when used during times of "extremely" high humidity.

3. In "extreme" humid areas, one can go on line to enter one's postal zip on a weather web site to determine one's temperature and relative humidity during different parts of the day ....... if too humid, sometimes better to wait for another day to apply POR 15 where "perfection" is desired.

4. After calling POR 15 technicians several times to report our average relative in our area in the high 90's, they were hesitant to recommend using POR 15; however, in our area, I have had better results by adding about 10% "POR 15 Thinner" to POR 15 when brushing on POR 15 ..... POR 15 recommends this 10% thinning for spraying but does not mention it for brushing.

5. Remember to never shake a can of POR 15 ...... bubbles in POR 15 will render a very poor ugly blotchy finish.

6. POR 15 top coats are not only rock proof under fenders, they are almost chisel proof. POR 15 also make a special POR 15 remover, similar to paint remover, Tie-coat primer for between coats etc., etc.

7. And, let us not forget that if one does not store one's Model A in an area of "extreme" high humidity like some of us, or travel on salt roads, other different coatings will always work very well.
 
Other POR 15 qualities not often mentioned are that this coating is:

a. Very flexible on flexible metal & will not crack to allow moisture entry like some paints when flexed.

b. POR 15 is strong enough to be used to fill pin holes in metal; e.g., apply masking tape on the opposite side of pin holes and apply; next, remove masking tape, clean, and apply POR 15 on opposite side.

C. After POR 15 has dried and cured on a paint brush, the bristles on the brush all stick together whereby it takes a hack saw to cut through the tough POR 15 hardened bristles.
 
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