POR 15 vs enamel

28ACoupe

28ACoupe

Well-known member
For those of you who have used POR-15, how does the end look compare to using black enamel on chassis pieces?

I have never used it or seen the end result so I am curious.
 
I don't care for the look compared to regular paint. My friend used POR 15 on his carb and I thought it looked almost tar coated. Too thick and I've heard reports of moisture getting under it and causing problems.
 
I kind of thought that might be the case. The videos I have seen on Youtube about it all show the product being brushed on rather than sprayed. Oh well. Enamel worked for 85 years and is cheaper than POR-15. :)

Thanks Tom
 
It looks great if it's used correctly. Brush it on and it looks like powder coating when it cures. Been using it for about 20 years.
 
yea por 15 is great, metal has to be absolutely clean for best results. frame i would do 2 coats. it will not come off even if you wanted it to so dont paint things together. (like carb halves) as it will become one.

you can scuff the por 15 up once it dries and paint whatever you want over it.
 
28ACoupe said:
I kind of thought that might be the case. The videos I have seen on Youtube about it all show the product being brushed on rather than sprayed. Oh well. Enamel worked for 85 years and is cheaper than POR-15. :)

Thanks Tom
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Are you speaking of Alkyd Enamel, Pyroxilyn, Gilsonite-based frame paint, --or Japan Black?
 
If you use it on parts exposed to sunlight they will become dull after a year or two.
 
I recently restored a generator that had POR 15 on it, and I hope I don't get another.:mad:
I finally used a sharp knife to scrape it off before blasting.
 
When exposed to light it will dull. Its very easy to paint over it. I have used it extensively on items exposed to extreme conditions, and have found it to be be very durable. I would continue to use it if it was four times it's current price.
 
I think por 15 is kind of a way of skipping steps in a restoration. It doesn't take long to properly strip peices, prime, and paint them with good quality paint. Wire wheels, disk sanders, 3 inch grinders, or sandblasting if you have one, or know a blasting company. I think the end product is better. If I was looking to buy a car with and a chassis was done in por 15, I'd be nervous to know what's under the por 15 and why it was "hidden" with por instead of being properly stripped and done more or less correctly.
 
Logan said:
I think por 15 is kind of a way of skipping steps in a restoration. It doesn't take long to properly strip peices, prime, and paint them with good quality paint. Wire wheels, disk sanders, 3 inch grinders, or sandblasting if you have one, or know a blasting company. I think the end product is better. If I was looking to buy a car with and a chassis was done in por 15, I'd be nervous to know what's under the por 15 and why it was "hidden" with por instead of being properly stripped and done more or less correctly.
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bare metal can be prepped and POR-15 applied with the end result being more bullet proof than standard paint (chassis use) but less bullet proof than line-x.

If I am doing a a full blown off chassis/ground up restore I go with tank dipping both for cleaning and for priming/painting. That takes care of the inside of the frame as well.
 
I have used Por-15 on several chassis. It requires that any loose rust, dirt,oil, be thoroughly cleaned from the metal and then the Por-15 is applied. It encapsulates any traces of rust from the moisture in the atmosphere. If you want to paint over the Por-15 be sure to follow the directions regarding the "time window' for recoating. It is the most durable chassis coating I have ever used. It leaves the surface with a nice gloss black, rock hard finish. It will turn a grayish black if left exposed to U/V light over a few years so that is why I top coat it with black enamel paint , but that's probably unnecessary, as the chassis sees very little light under the car.
 
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