Popout stud clip question

29tudorsedan

29tudorsedan

Member
I am going to install a Popout in the car, right now the ignition cable is an armored one, but doesn't have a clip secured to the stud.

The stud the clip should go on is flush right now with the bolt, my question is wil there be any problem if the clip is added and the bolt can't lay flush over the stud?

Two of my studs on the head lay higher than flush, one on the corner near the passenger side, and then another three bolts forward from that. I can post a picture if needed.

Thank you
 
Yes, a picture would definitely be helpful. However, I am guessing you are trying to say the head stud is flush with the nut. You state the stud is flush with the bolt, and to me the stud and bolt are the same.

Anyway, the head stud needs to be flush or slightly above the nut for the proper head torque to be achieved.
 
Your terminology is a little challenged, but I think I get what you're driving at.

Yes, you will create a condition where the stud will show "recessed" below the top of the nut. Like adding extra washers below the nut.

Technically this is not a problem, provided you can get 4 full threads of engagement between the nut and the stud.

Some engineer with nothing better to do in his life studied engagement of nuts on threaded fasteners and came up with this rule of thumb. Seemingly the strength of this annular section of metal in both bending and shear equals or exceeds the strength of the stud or nut in tension. And the fineness of the thread seems not to matter in the equation.

Still, I expect you'll have more than that given the SAE fine threads at this location.

Now you have to decide if you want to put up with what many would consider a unsightly condition - and one that well meaning and conservative mechanics worldwide would comment on should they see it.

Well, it does create a water pocket that may retain standing water.

Ford actually provided a stud that was a little longer for this location. I don't have the part number in hand - and the length was revised to correspond to the differences in the armor cable clip size as these were changed too. But most parts vendors have just the stud - and may even have a choice of a couple of sizes to cover what the marketplace may demand.

Should you decide to change out this stud, I would recommend you drain the coolant from the engine before de-torqueing this nut. And while you're at it and as you restore your head to tightness, take up a little on the rest of the head nuts.

Cold or hot has been discussed on another thread.

Good luck either way, or not as you see fit.

Joe K
 
Joe, that's precisely what I was getting at, thanks for being able to decode my phrasing! I'll see where it sits in relation to the clip, and thanks for the idea of draining the coolant.

If I understand you, can you replace a single stud leaving the head on?

Thank you.
 
29tudorsedan said:
If I understand you, can you replace a single stud leaving the head on?

Thank you.
Click to expand...
You can, and I've done it successfully, but many will say I was lucky. Most guys think if you're quick about it, there's no trouble, but I've come to believe, in spite of my personal experiences, that if you're replacing the stud you should back off all your head nuts, then replace the stud, then retorque in the proper sequence.

Disclaimer: I'm just a shade tree mechanic. Herm or James or the other experts may have a better idea.
 
Unless you are going to have the car judged, I would advise against clamping the cable down on the #8 stud. Every time you want to remove the distributor you will have to break the torque on that stud which could lead to head warping and water in the oil, If the nut is flush with the top of the stud it probably has a standard stud in the #8 position. In the case of the longer stud in the #8 position you would have to put a spacer under the nut equal to the thickness of the clamp so as not to bottom the nut out and create a false torque.

There also may come a time when I have an ignition problem out on the road and I have to remove the distributor to insert a by-pass cable and the last thing I want to do is break the torque on a head bolt while out on the road.

Tom Endy
 
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Tom Endy said:
Unless you are going to have the car judged, I would advise against clamping the cable down on the #8 stud. Every time you want to remove the distributor you will have to break the torque on that stud which could lead to head warping and water in the oil, If the nut is flush with the top of the stud it probably has a standard stud in the #8 position. In the case of the longer stud in the #8 position you would have to put a spacer under the nut equal to the thickness of the clamp so as not to bottom the nut out and create a false torque.

Tom Endy
Click to expand...

How often do you remove the distributor?
 
You can fake it. Cut 1/16" off the top of of another stud, file the thread lead clean on the little piece, and screw it into the top few empty threads of your head nut.
 
Mike V. Florida said:
How often do you remove the distributor?
Click to expand...

I remove the distributor every time I change oil at about 1000 miles, two to three times a year. I clamp the distributor in a vice, clean it up, touch up the points with a file, re-set the gap, put oil in the oiler, and a little cam grease on the cam. I also apply a little grease to the base before I install it back in the car. This assures me that I will never have a problem with a distributor becoming frozen in the head due to moisture and rust. As long as the cam screw is not loosened the timing remains in tact, and the timing does not have to be re-set.

I also pull the plugs at the same time and clean them up.

Tom Endy
 
tom endy said:
i remove the distributor every time i change oil at about 1000 miles, two to three times a year. I clamp the distributor in a vice, clean it up, touch up the points with a file, re-set the gap, put oil in the oiler, and a little cam grease on the cam. I also apply a little grease to the base before i install it back in the car. This assures me that i will never have a problem with a distributor becoming frozen in the head due to moisture and rust. As long as the cam screw is not loosened the timing remains in tact, and the timing does not have to be re-set.

I also pull the plugs at the same time and clean them up.

Tom endy
Click to expand...

wow
 
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