pop out switch

K,
Picked one up at a swap meet three years ago. We tested it with a multimeter right at the show. It has worked flawlessly ever since. Dale
 
Good rebuilt ones are out there. The price depends upon condition and how common it is. The 1931 models used the latest design and it is a bit easier to repair than the old ones. One of the How to Restore series of books has a complete run down on them and the keys they used.
 
Try:

Dick Crabtree

(605) 487-7229

He’s a great guy, and he sold a rebuilt pop out switch to me that was keyed to match my passenger door lock.


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Thanks to all who responded. My switch is an original and is in very good condition, but it needs a key, and I have the blank and am taking it to the locksmith.
 
There should be a number at the base of the switch where the key goes in. AXXXX. With that number, Dick Crabtree, ( info above from Shew ) can cut you a new key and send it to you. Maybe your locksmith can as well? Anyway, that number is important.
 
The original Popout Switch has features not available in modern ignition switches. Definitely, use a restored Popout.
 

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I am going to argue for the more modern switch and modern wiring which removes all power from the coil and any other device that has been added to the junction box. Plus, the accessory position on the modern switch can be used to power things without having the ignition on.

People who steal Model A's now are not deterred by not being able to start them and stealing a Model A is rare now. However, the modern switch detracts from the originality of the car. So if that is important to you, then use the pop out switch.
 
Anyway, that number is important.

And a far better plan than leaving with a locksmith who may know locks, but not the minutia of a Model A popout.

And you'll be paying for his "learning curve."

I've bought outright from Dick. He's fine. Your cheapest and best solution for a key - or more if you want to send the whole thing to him for a "reconditioning."

Joe K
 
Bob Bidonde, methinks your "pop out ignition switch features" diagram is wrong. The top connection "To battery" should be "To ignition coil". As shown it's a direct short from the battery to ground, through the ignition points.
 
There should be a number at the base of the switch where the key goes in. AXXXX. With that number, Dick Crabtree, ( info above from Shew ) can cut you a new key and send it to you. Maybe your locksmith can as well? Anyway, that number is important.

I took an original switch to a locksmith. Using those numbers he located the original codes and cut a key. Did not work! Send it to dick Crabtree, you will get the correct key and it wil work. I did and was very satisfied!
 
Try:

Dick Crabtree

(605) 487-7229

He’s a great guy, and he sold a rebuilt pop out switch to me that was keyed to match my passenger door lock.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I finally contacted Dick Crabtree, and am sending him my "pop out". He told me that he has fixed many thousands of switches for over 50 years. My sincere thanks, it shows that the forum works!
 
I have 3 pop out switches; one is marked "Electro lock" and the other 2 have no ID markings. Anyone know who might have made them? Was the Electro Lock supplied as original equipment?
 
Some were made as reproduction units. I still use one since it can be repaired like the original late types. They don't have a name on them. I'll have to check Volume 5 of the Restorer series of books. Most do have a name but the location varies.
 
I finally contacted Dick Crabtree, and am sending him my "pop out". He told me that he has fixed many thousands of switches for over 50 years. My sincere thanks, it shows that the forum works!


I’m glad that worked out. He is a joy to work with.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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