Poor spark

B

Baxter

Junior Member
Hi, I'm having a problem with spark on my '31 roadster. I have replaced plugs, condenser, points. The distributor lower plate is fairly new. I have power to the point arm but it won't jump to the point block. Is there a short that I missed or would the coil have this effect. Normally I can troubleshoot most things but I'm stumped.

Thanks, Denis
 
I had this type problem with the so called modern points. I changed back to the original style points and problem solved.
 
its a problem with the modern style lower plate if your running that. an original style lower plate is available to run good with the modern points. i prefer the original style set up but maybe it will help if you tell us what cinfiguration you have
 
One cause for no spark is sometimes a distributor/switch connection problem as follows; & "if" so, try this fail proof method:

1. Unscrew your armored cable pop-out switch connection on the side of the distributor. (Many screw this device in too far & it shorts out whereby one has no spark at the points)

2. Carefully measure the distance from the out-side rim of the cast iron distributor housing to the bottom of the indentation of the curved metal plate inside the threaded distributor hole.

3. Record this dimension, for example, let us say it is 5/8" deep to the metal indentation.

4. On the tubular threaded pop-out switch connection device, mark the exact measurement found in paragraph (3) above plus 1/8", (for example "if" 5/8" measured initiallty, add 5/8" + 1/8" = 3/4"), & place a "thin" mark with a marker on the tubular pop-out switch connection device "exactly" at say 3/4" from the very end of the forward metal tip of the pop-out connection device with spring, to the metal switch threads.

5. Re- screw the pop-out device in the distributor; ............... but stop turning when you reach the say 3/4" depth. The object is to only compress the switch's tip spring no more than 1/8".

Hope this helps.
 
Do you have a good blue spark at the coil wire if you short the OPEN points with a flat tip screwdriver? If so then the points contacts need to be cleaned.
 
Hi, I'm having a problem with spark on my '31 roadster. I have replaced plugs, condenser, points. The distributor lower plate is fairly new. I have power to the point arm but it won't jump to the point block. Is there a short that I missed or would the coil have this effect. Normally I can troubleshoot most things but I'm stumped.
end quote

I'm not sure what you mean. Power should not and won't jump between the points contacts when open. As Tom said, if you 'jump' across the contacts with the coil secondary wire about 1/4" from a good ground you should then see a spark. If not, jumper wire the fixed point contact/connector/ground to another good ground and try the above again. If you then get fire then you have a ground issue in the distributor or distributor to block. If still no spark, clean the points contacts. Clear as mud, huh.
 
Patrick L. said:
Hi, I'm having a problem with spark on my '31 roadster. I have replaced plugs, condenser, points. The distributor lower plate is fairly new. I have power to the point arm but it won't jump to the point block. Is there a short that I missed or would the coil have this effect. Normally I can troubleshoot most things but I'm stumped.
end quote

I'm not sure what you mean. Power should not and won't jump between the points contacts when open. As Tom said, if you 'jump' across the contacts with the coil secondary wire about 1/4" from a good ground you should then see a spark. If not, jumper wire the fixed point contact/connector/ground to another good ground and try the above again. If you then get fire then you have a ground issue in the distributor or distributor to block. If still no spark, clean the points contacts. Clear as mud, huh.
Click to expand...

Yes, if the condenser is doing it's job you should see little to no spark at the points.
 
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