poor idle driving me nuttier

"i'm using a tillotson x" "it runs best with the idle air screw all the way in"

Initial settings on a Tillotson x are: Air screw open 3/4 turn and the dash adjustment open one full turn.
 

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I am just wondering if the “lightened” flywheel may be the culprit? I thought the weight of stock flywheel helped enable the slow idle speed. Just my thought.
 
lightened flywheel, high comp head, b cam, it may be one of those suggestions. i've put pressure to the intake as stated, sanded the carb mount flange. i have tried three different carbs with the same results. when i had an old worn out engine it would do the A idle beautifully. i may be just stuck with a fast idle. i sure like that slow sound.
 
i got to do a little bit more tinkering today and have found a new wrinkle. i decided to check my timing one more time. it was dead on. but... i am running late style points and plate i had gotten from one of the parts houses. the rubbing block on the points was at an odd angle with the cam and with the timing right the rotor button brass contact is leaving town by the time the points break. i found another set of late points in my junk, cleaned and installed them, and retimed. the points are now opening just before the trailing edge of the rotor moves away. did a quick crank up before quitting it sounds better at idle in retard position even though not warmed up good. where should
the rotor brass be in relation to the housing contact button in retard and full advance?
 
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