POLL: The one that really matters

Larry,I can actually advance it a little more when running flat out,but not too much.I found that if I retard it any more it runs a little hotter at an idle.I have moved things around and found the best spot for this particular truck.It is .060 over,with a B cam,a B profile dist.cam,stock ignition,and I don't know if I have the 5.5 or the 5.9 head from you.I bought a couple of blems,and I can't tell the blem from the drivers seat.With the stock head I would start the truck at full retard,then pull it down a couple clicks.Taking off and around town,or under 45 I run the lever halfway down.Then,when flat out I pull it all the way down.It felt right and worked right.All my cars are very sensitive to the spark advance and GAV controls.With your head I only touch the GAV to make sure it has not vibrated out any or to use the choke.The car takes to the throttle instantly,when cold,and I can drive it out of the garage to warm up instead of sitting in it for two minutes inside waiting for it to be able to move without spitting and stalling.I also realize I have it a little advanced in the static timing,but very little,and the car seems to behave the best there.NO kickback on starting,even when very hot,and when warm it starts on one lift of a piston.If I come to a stop with my other cars I have to retard the spark,if not they kick and roll a little at idle.I really think most people don't notice it.In the car with your head on it,once it starts I can pull it down a little,maybe between 10 and 11,and leave it there until I am wide open.Then I only pull it down a little more.The exhaust smells cleaner,the car runs smoother,more power,it is hard to lug it because it just takes off when you step on the pedal,I just like it.And,one other thing I forgot,my pistons protrude a little more than they should.The block has been decked too many times.I don't remember how much,it has been probably 25 years since I measured it.It can't be too much though,I check clearance when changing heads and it has never been an issue.
 
"I also realize I have it a little advanced in the static timing, but very little ....."

Keith, not trying to irritate you but do you think maybe the static timing is a little more advanced than you realize? A total spark lever movement that is only 1/4 the distance equals a total advance of only 10 degrees! Not near enough. The total quadrant (and dist. movement) equals 40 degrees advancement and 1/4 of this equals 10.

Also, the timing can be advanced pretty far and not kick back against the starter. Look at the Model B. It has a static timing position of 19 degrees BTDC and they start just fine. That is the same as pulling the lever down nearly 1/2 on the Model A and cranking her up.

But not to worry ..... if it runs good for you then that's all that matters. Leave it alone and enjoy it!


Larry B
 
That could very well be the case.I like to set them so they start well,with no kicking when hot,so I do tend to turn the rotor a little more than according to hoyle.I have never checked to see just what the advance really is.If I turn this one back much it tends to heat up a little.Not overheat,just warmer than usual.As it is I can retard it to the full travel of the lever and walk away for an hour.If I retard it just a little I might want to stick around to keep an eye on it.Every car I have likes the timing set just a little different.I have a low mile 30 roadster that once I set it by the book,I turn the rotor about 1/8 inch more ahead.I have a 31 sedan that I have to set as it is supposed to be.If the spark lever is down halfway it lets you know as soon as you try to start it.That is a worn engine too,that windmills after I shut it off.I did try pulling the lever down halfway on the truck with the head on it today,at about 50 MPH,it felt like it wanted to slow down,or at least just flatten out.just a couple clicks up and she ran away.I don't actually hear a ping,but that's most likely because it is an open truck and a lot of sounds get lost.It is easy to read it though,it starts to labor and you can feel a roughness set in throughout the whole vehicle.
 
I have one on each of my 2 Model A's. Wouldn't be without them.

Thanks for your technical contributions to this site. I've learned a great deal over the years.
 
Not ever having one on my coupe I don't know what the differents is execpt more HP and speed. Though by the way every body speaks so highly of them I would dumb not to try one if it was presented to me. Other wise I could live without one. Car runs fine to me. Richard/Ca
 
I tried to reply once before don't know were to went. I have never had one. So unless I was presented with one I probably won't not care to have one. No disrespect to the people who have an enjoy them. Richard/Ca
 
I have run a 5.9 Brumfield head for years. Can't wait to buy another. How many do I have to order to get you back in production Larry :>).

I have two 5.5 Snyders . They run good too.

HC Head is the BEST single modification you do for your Model A performance.

Neither 5.5. or 5.9 is all that high a compression ratio, even "back then".

Richard
Anaheim CA
 
Well I have one and love it, but I have a Lion Head because I like the looks of it. Im a Model A guy but not a purest. I feel if you got a Hi Compression Head It should look like one. LOL Iceman
 
If I'm lucky enough to get my own 'A' to do with as I please in the near future it will certainly have a Brumfield head on it without a doubt.
 
Absolutely!!!!!!!!!! I have one of your 5.9 heads on my Victoria and a Super Brumfield on my Roadstewr PCup. I run a Winfield red head on my Speedster. Changing the head to a higher compression is the first thing I do on a new car.
 
I have never had one so I wouldn't know the different. If someone were to present me with one I would be a fool not to try it and probably like everyone would like it. Otherwise I can't afford to do it on my own. :(Richard/ Ca
 
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