Polishing the Radiator shell

Rock Hornbuckle

Rock Hornbuckle

Well-known member
I would like to polish the stainless radiator shell and cowl band on my '31. What have some of you used to polish stainless. I have seen a number of products on the market, and also some companies that specialize in polishing metals. I would like to do this myself. :confused:
 
try east wood products for polishing compound and buffing wheels....I am soing headlight right now.....works great.
 
I use my variable-speed Bridgeport Mill with white rouge and a triple thick 10" sewn pad. The key to being able to get a lustre is you must have horsepower. My B/P has a 2hp 220v motor. I do not think you will ever receive satisfactory results with a pad on a ½-horse bench grinder. I use a Hutchins DA with Hook-it grit pads that start in 1000 grit and then 2500 grit to finish with to remove all scratches. Use water with the sanding. Then use a wood 2x2 framework to support the shell in 2 directions so the heat will not distort it. Make a framework to hold the cowl band to keep it from flopping and to press down against. When you buff, use plenty of rouge on the pad. The black residue is the "bear fat" grease that was there to hold the polishing aggregate. If you have enough Hp to apply, the black residue will evaporate as you are buffing. If not, all the grease does is smear and the compound cannot effectively cut the stainless.

There is way more to doing this task but this should get you started. I also think the more horsepower you have with your buffer, the more likely you are NOT going to sling the shell. I think it is because you are WAY more respectful of the machine and how it can get you hurt than what someone is with a dinky machine. ;)
 
You might consider reading "Restoring Model A Stainless Steel" by Bill Reeder, on pages 68-72 of Volume 2 of How to Restore Your Model A. I found this article very helpful when working of my 1930 radiator shell and - to date - four headlamp shells.
 
Napa Skip said:
You might consider reading "Restoring Model A Stainless Steel" by Bill Reeder, on pages 68-72 of Volume 2 of How to Restore Your Model A. I found this article very helpful when working of my 1930 radiator shell and - to date - four headlamp shells.
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Napa Skip .....................
It's the early worm that gets caught !
MIKE :)
 
Rock, I have a wheel and stand if you need to borrow it. I also think I have some pollishes too but not sure if I have what you need??
 
Brent, I'm trying to picture this Bridgeport as a buffer setup, is the shell clamped to the table, or is someone holding it by hand? Bob
 
Roadster62 said:
Brent, I'm trying to picture this Bridgeport as a buffer setup, is the shell clamped to the table, or is someone holding it by hand? Bob
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I hold it in my hands. I just run the knee down to the bottom for clearance, and I threaded a piece of ¾" bar stock and turned it to ½" to hold up to 4 buffs, and the other end clamps into a .750" collet. This places the work at about waist high and I use an old moving blanket to cover up the table to help with the lint and debris.

A couple years ago I was in the market for a Baldor buffing machine and I struggled with where I was going to put it since I would only use it infrequently. I made the shaft and tried it, liked it, and never went back to purchase the buffer. My only dislike is the mess. :o

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I wet sanded mine with a foam block and 800 grit wet or dry progressively to 1500 grit. I did the final polish with a B&D 6 inch bench grinder with a rag wheel from the hardware store and some 3M machine polish. You will find that this method is inexpensive albeit somewhat time consuming and when you get to the 1500 grit paper that the shine is already mostly a mirror finish and that polishing is only needed to maximize the shine. It worked quite well for me.
 
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