Points VS electronic > GAS MILEAGE

BILL WZOREK

BILL WZOREK

Well-known member
Has any body ever compared gas mileage when using points vs electronic ignition ?
Maybe this next part can be answered by Bubba why the dislike of electronic ignition ~I know that you will install it but you like points better ~

What would be the problem with the following example:
Car 53 Mainline
Engine 8ba
Keep every thing 6v pos. ground.
Optima battery
6v Alternator
Pertronix 1283P6 Ignitor
Pertronix 40011 Flame thrower coil

I want the car to be a daily driver that I can let my wife drive with not a lot of problems.
 
Bill,
You already know my answer....sbc/8ba converted dist....with points and
the can. These things are the rock of Gibraltar.
Charlie ny
 
I've heard good and bad about Pertronix. All I can give is my personal experience which is about 3 years of regular use on my 49 with a Pertronix on a stock distributor and zero problems so far.
 
Charlie ny:

This is not to be argumentative / But why is there a problem with the Pertronix system,
if so what is it ?

I most likely will go your suggested route / But I really want to understand where the problem lies.
 
I've been using Pertronix units in two cars I have with no problems with either one. But I do carry a spare Pertronix unit "just in case". That being said, if an electronic unit poops out on you there is no coaxing it back to life like you can usually do with a sets of points.
 
sidevalve8ba said:
I've been using Pertronix units in two cars I have with no problems with either one. But I do carry a spare Pertronix unit "just in case". That being said, if an electronic unit poops out on you there is no coaxing it back to life like you can usually do with a sets of points.
Click to expand...

Is it not a change on the side of road kind of thing ?
 
The post says " points vs electronic > gas mileage" thats a tough one to even try to fix all at once..

I will avoid the gas mileage issue as thats a entire post all by its self. Other than there would be no difference in mileage with points or electronic.
Electronic ignition was created based on emission levels for vehicles. The oem had to certify the vehicle would maintain emission levels for 50,000 miles , todays cars have to certify emissions for 100,000 miles .
A point system cant do that.
I see posts all the time where a car owner installed a electronic ignition and gained mpg. Thats true IF the addition of the electronic system fixed a problem the old point distributor had . Timing would be a good example on the early crab-helmet ex : Lets say the helmet drivers side point settings change ( the timing set) enough for a performance change . If i installed another unit with electronic ignition then the addition would cause the car to run much better in this case.
I dont dislike electronic ignition and have made a living teaching and building electronic ignition systems. Even wrote a few books on the dis and coil on plug late systems.
There are advantages to points as well especially with 6 volt positive ground systems. The early ignition used on the early fords operated at 4.6 volts on a good vehicle and most electronic units dont work well at that range, not to mention the generator voltage being very dirty as power for electronics.

The other issue is that over the years i have become a " need" hot rodder. Meaning that i have (like many others) spent a fortune on car stuff that i didnt need. With the flathead engine design and compression ratios there very little need for a electronic ignition. Cost would also figure in here somewhere as well as reliabilty.
Ignition coils would fall into this discussion somewhere as well. A 60,000 volt coil on a flathead would never fire at 60,000 volts and the excess heat used is a total waste. A 1940 Ford flathead going up Pikes peak pulling a 25 foot travel trailer at wide open throttle would not need 60,000 volts !!!

We shipped over 100 pertronixs units last year with a return ration of approx 20-25%. However 90% of that was caused by the customer. Incorrect coils , wrong wiring polarity etc...
 
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My friend Richard in Florida has done extensive tests and recorded much of what Jim has said here. A stock ignition system in proper working order will not gain much in economy or power output by converting to electronic. However with this said. The improvement of the timing curve will in most cases do just that, weather points or electronic. When we modify our Flatheads we change the timing requirements of said engine. The SBC didtributor was a lucky choice in being able to be converted to it and the design allows for easy Tayloring to most any application. the engine determines how much spark it needs. The beauty of an electronic conversion is, once it's setup, it stays that way.
 
Ol' Ron said:
My friend Richard in Florida has done extensive tests and recorded much of what Jim has said here. A stock ignition system in proper working order will not gain much in economy or power output by converting to electronic. However with this said. The improvement of the timing curve will in most cases do just that, weather points or electronic. When we modify our Flatheads we change the timing requirements of said engine. The SBC didtributor was a lucky choice in being able to be converted to it and the design allows for easy Tayloring to most any application. the engine determines how much spark it needs. The beauty of an electronic conversion is, once it's setup, it stays that way.
Click to expand...

RON :
So if it stays that way doesn't it mean that there would be better or I should say more consistance prerormance.
Either GO or NO GO.

BUBBA:
If 60,000 volts is over kill what would be the most volt wanted coil be?
And does that change the more the engine is built up aka More cam / carbs ?
 
Bill, I have a sbc converted dis. in my 47, starts and goes every time. Gas mileage at a steady 60mph is 17-18mpg. I would use their coil, 40,000 is more than enough. Oh yea, you could carry a set of chevy points and condensers as back up. Later, see you next week, Chuck S.
 
BUBBA:
If 60,000 volts is over kill what would be the most volt wanted coil be?
And does that change the more the engine is built up aka More cam / carbs ?[/QUOTE]

Bill,
A standard stock coil for lets say a 55 Ford will produce 20-30,000 volts if needed . 20,000 is pretty standard output spec.
A flathead at idle would require approx 5-8000 volts depending on the engine being in good shape. Under heavy acceleration you might need 10-12000 volts.
The extra voltage is present to handle the "broke" or reserve voltage for that wide open throttle quick trip etc.
Its really all about marketing, you know chrome and 60,000 volts will run better than black and 20,000 right !!!
Then the story gets worse , most of the so called 60,000 volt coils wont produce anywhere close to 60,000.

A built engine with increased compression needs a little MORE voltage AND a rich air fuel mixture needs LESS......Almost a trade off...
 
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I have a Pertronix Igniter distributor and their Flamethrower coil in my '52
F1 - been installed for over 2 years now - no problems whatsoever and I really think it was a great upgrade.
 

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