points question

R

Ron Lowe

Senior Member
Is it possible to remove the points without having to change the timing. My timing seems to be great but it's time for a new set of points? Everything is in stock original condition. I would appreciate your opinion. Thanks Ron 1930 coupe
 
You have to remove the distributor cam in order to remove the top plate so I believe you will have to reset the timing in order to get any kind of accuracy.

Perhaps someone out there is a trick to make a mark somewhere?
 
just use a magic marker and put a mark on the distributor casting in line with the notch in the cam before you take the cam off. Then reinstall with the mark lined up. It's a good idea to take the lash out by turning the cam all the way clockwise before making the mark because when you tighten the cam screw it will turn it all the way clockwise.
 
Why is it time to replace the points?

You use points until the contacts become bad or the wear block is wore out.

My brother has been running the same used points that came on his car in 1970.

Replacing working points on time is a bad decision as it only creates more work and costs you more money.

It takes a while for the wear block to wear into the cam. Once it is worn into the cam and assuming proper lubrication you should expect minimal need to adjust for wear.

The Model A when done right to factory tolerances will start and drive 60 MPH for years with very little maintenance. Why make it harder then it needs to be?
 
Even if you do not change the position of the distributor the gap of the points directly affects timing, so even if you regap the points technically you should retime the engine.
 
I've had these points in my car for about 12000 miles and filed them when they look burnt. Just recently had trouble and filed and reset the gap. Just thought it was time for a new set. Any thoughts? Thanks again Ron
 
My opinion, based on many thousands of miles of driving in older vehicles using breaker-point ignition is that they can be dressed and re-used until one or more of the following occurs:

1) rubbing block wears down to the point where the metal contact arm contacts the distributor cam

2) Contact surfaces are worn / ground-down to the point where there is no tungsten left

3) Contact surfaces are too pitted to clean-up to a smooth / even contact surface.

It may be possible that the contacts could wear down so much that it is no longer possible to get both contact faces parallel...

I have gotten as much as 30-40,000 miles on one set of points...
 
I agree with everyone above. I use old points I found that are the good quality of yesteryear with a lot of tungston on the contacts. About every 1,000 miles I change the oil, clean the plugs, file and re-set the points. I take the distributor out of the car to do it, and clean up the distributor as well, but as long as you do not disturb the cam screw the timing stays in tact when you reinstall the distributor. I will replace the points only when the rubbing block wears down and allows the arm of the points to ground out.

Tom Endy
 
A trick I learned from an old friend, was to sand/grind two flats om the top of the stud for the mounting of the points. This will require removing the stud by springing the loop on the end of the points. The stud can now be replaced in the distributor plate for the final time. The flats when positioned correctly, will allow you to lift the points out without removing the plate to get at the nut under the plate. It makes it easier to change just the points. Clear as mud, right ?
 
You re right. Slick as mud.That was what i did to mine.I use to take a dremmel and cut the loop then put the new points on that way.
 
Jim has a good idea for making the points easier to change.

Like Kevin said, I only change points if the tunsten is completely gone, or the rubbing block is worn out. I'm not even sure if that will happen in my lifetime, and by the time it happens, I figure it's time for new bushings in the distributor anyway, so the whole thing comes off and apart.
 
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