Points alway hot???

mystic122468

mystic122468

Member
Hey guys.. the points in my 28 are always Hot, I traced all the wiring according to my Model A manual and everything looks correct. Can someone point me in the right direction please? That is unless they're supposed to be..
Thanks in advance!
Jim
 
Dick Steinkamp said:
What test did you use to determine they are always hot? Will the car not turn off with the key?
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The car does turn off.
To make a long story short I was just giving everything the "once over".
cleaning the carb, flushing the block and radiator cleaning and checking the gap on the points...
When I touched the screw driver to the points I get sparks.. That's when I went through all the wiring, all looks good.
 
Just looked more closely at the Wiring Diagram.. The Diagram shows a Positive ground system.. Mine is connected Negative Ground... Could that be my issue?
 
Here is a simple ignition diagram
 

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mystic122468 said:
that is about the same one I have.. and by following it, it would appear that one side of the points would be hot even with the switch off..
Odd that the points won't weld closed
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In both the diagram that Chuck posted and in the entire Model A wiring diagram, there is no way power can get to the points with the ignition switch in the off position. In addition, the engine would not turn off if power continued to the points with the switch off.

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mystic122468 said:
The car does turn off.
To make a long story short I was just giving everything the "once over".
cleaning the carb, flushing the block and radiator cleaning and checking the gap on the points...
When I touched the screw driver to the points I get sparks.. That's when I went through all the wiring, all looks good.
Click to expand...

Well, I want to hear how this one turns out!.This is a real puzzle.

Is it even possible that the ignition switch somehow got wired downstream from the points?!
 
Soon as I get home I'm going to wire the battery to positive ground and do another check over over the electrical. I'll post the results
 
mystic122468 said:
Soon as I get home I'm going to wire the battery to positive ground and do another check over over the electrical. I'll post the results
Click to expand...

Normally, when you reverse the battery polarity you also have to reverse the connections at the coil, but considering the strangeness of your situation, I'm guessing there's a 50-50 chance your coil is already wired right for positive ground. Also, you may have to "spark" the generator to make sure it's trying to push the electrons in the right direction.

Where's Tom Wesenberg when we need him?
 
I already reversed the coil when I was going over the wiring. The only thing left is the battery and spark the bolts on the cutout..
 
Just to be clear, as Chuck indicated, there is zero chance that your problem is due to battery polarity.
 
mystic122468 said:
I understand, I just want the car to be wired as it should be according to the diagram.. from there I will troubleshoot..
Click to expand...

Then you have a defective ing switch. All the drawing presented here clearly show the path to the points open with the switch, so no voltage at the distributor at all.

Where are you placing the test probes when you are measuring the voltage? One lead should be on the engine block and the other moved from point to point.
 
Problem Solved! The ignition switch failed and it's actually working backwards! I called Snyders and a replacement is on the way..
The guy on the phone was says those original switchs can be very temperamental.
Thanks to everyone for your input!
 
Your ammeter will be wired backwards also.

I wonder if the "spark at the points" was residual current in the capacitor (condenser)?

Are you actually measuring voltage at all times at the points?
 
mystic122468 said:
Problem Solved! The ignition switch failed and it's actually working backwards! I called Snyders and a replacement is on the way..
The guy on the phone was says those original switchs can be very temperamental.
Thanks to everyone for your input!
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what you mean by "working backwards"?

When in the off position it was on, and visa versa?
 
I was using a basic test light. With my switch pushed IN I have No light on the test light But when I turn the key and the switch pops out my test light lights up..
 
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