Plugging Away on The 32' Roadster

That one is a 34 replacement shock with the unique arm or so it appears. Definitely not 32 either.

With slight bending many people have used 33 arms on a 32. They are much easier to find as well (I have several myself)
 
35fordtn said:
That one is a 34 replacement shock with the unique arm or so it appears. Definitely not 32 either.

With slight bending many people have used 33 arms on a 32. They are much easier to find as well (I have several myself)
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Is by chance a model A shock arm the same as a 32'?

The one in the picture i took. If the balls are above one another fairly perpendicular to the floor, i could use them correct? Maybe my dad or ? bent these to work? Until i locate the correct ones?...Thing is, i probably have the correct ones. No one would understand, but for me to find what im looking for is like finding a needle in a hay stack...
 
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Trust me I understand. Attach is a side by side comparison of a 32 and a 33 both are NOS.

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Model A front shock arms are similar to the '32 version except at the ball end as the type of link to the spring perch differed considerably. On the A arm there is a flange surrounding the base of the ball.
 
Definitely going to make more Topics like this so you guys can keeping catching all these errors for me...lol
 
not sure what these are...

This is the dist i was going to use...
 

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The s- plug wire tubes not correct.The upper pair look like 37-40(not at all) ,My bad .The single '33-'36 drivers side.Your dist is a '33- early '36. It was commonly used to replace the '32. Should be just fine .Here is what the orig '32 V8 dist looks like without the coil.This has a remote coil adapter on it in place of the coil.
 

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deuce lover said:
The s- plug wire tubes not correct.The upper pair look like 37-40.The single '33-'36 drivers side.Your dist is a '33- early '36. It was commonly used to replace the '32. Should be just fine .Here is what the orig '32 V8 dist looks like without the coil.This has a remote coil adapter on it in place of the coil.
Click to expand...


Thanks. Should i be looking for the other side or the 2 i have the same? Will that work with my dist?
 
My mistake the right S-plug tube is the one below the top one in your pic. That along with s-plug tube at bottom of your pics makes the pair that you can use with that dist.In looking again as the pics are not very clear both the top tubes are right side 33-36 and the bottom is left side 33-36.
 
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As Sheldon indicates you have a pair of spark plug wire conduits which will work just fine along with the distributor and coil in the photos in your post #26.

The centrifugal advance weights in the distributor will either be stamped with a 40, 40A, or 40B or not stamped with any number. You might be able to verify which by removing the big hex nut fitting on the left side of the distributor and what's beneath it and with a flashlight be able to see the outer sides of the weights while rotating the distributor shaft. It may not be possible see enough and you will have to remove the shaft assembly from the rear (you must remove the big hex nut fitting and the spring and vacuum brake inside either way). The variation in the weights are based on the combination of intake manifold and cylinder heads you are using. A stock '32 engine with cast iron heads and single-barrel Detroit Lubricator carburetor used advance weights with no markings. The substitution of aluminum heads in '33 used advance weights stamped either 40 or 40A. 40B stamped weights were used in '34-early '36 with aluminum heads and a two-barrel Stromberg carburetor. Any of them will work with a stock '32-'36 engine, but at some sacrifice in optimum performance if not matched to the cylinder head/carburetor being used.
 
DavidG said:
As Sheldon indicates you have a pair of spark plug wire conduits which will work just fine along with the distributor and coil in the photos in your post #26.

The centrifugal advance weights in the distributor will either be stamped with a 40, 40A, or 40B or not stamped with any number. You might be able to verify which by removing the big hex nut fitting on the left side of the distributor and what's beneath it and with a flashlight be able to see the outer sides of the weights while rotating the distributor shaft. It may not be possible see enough and you will have to remove the shaft assembly from the rear (you must remove the big hex nut fitting and the spring and vacuum brake inside either way). The variation in the weights are based on the combination of intake manifold and cylinder heads you are using. A stock '32 engine with cast iron heads and single-barrel Detroit Lubricator carburetor used advance weights with no markings. The substitution of aluminum heads in '33 used advance weights stamped either 40 or 40A. 40B stamped weights were used in '34-early '36 with aluminum heads and a two-barrel Stromberg carburetor. Any of them will work with a stock '32-'36 engine, but at some sacrifice in optimum performance if not matched to the cylinder head/carburetor being used.
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Ill have to read that a bunch over...Sort of alien to me right now as i havent dabbled in the flathead engine talk at all really...but, i will get it over time...

So, in this pic i can use these 2 pcs.? Correct? They are solid and free of dents. Thanks for your help guys!
 

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Yes, They should work just fine! The longer one will be mounted on the driver's side and the shorter on the passenger side. Enjoying your posts! Pat
 
I have two extra front shock arms 6 1/2" long, are these 32s? I would post a picture but having difficulty at the moment
 
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Cool your keeping it close to stock. If that 35-36ish coil gives you some issue later (might not) see skip here.


Great project! would like as one, see more of it.


.
 
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