Please recommend a well made Cut-Out.

ItsA31

ItsA31

Member
My generator cut-out is very old, but it still works. It has a problem though. The points wont close until the truck bumps around a bit, or until I tap the cut-out with a small hammer.

I guess I could play with the point gap some, but I'm terrified of the opposite problem occurring (points won't open). I had a 'points failed to open' problem on my 1929 Hudson once...it caused a small electrical fire that I stopped by pulling the gen wire off by hand and then beating the fire down with my hand, all right next to the carburetor. Very unpleasant.

So rather than play with an old cut-out, I would like to replace it. I know there is mechanical, solid state, and regulating cut-outs. What is the best way to go, and who makes a reliable, well-built, USA product?

I hope this subject has not been beat to death yet. As a 'Model A newbe' myself, I'm sure there are other newbes also interested in this subject.
 
Put a fuse in-line! No matter what type of cut-out you use, they CAN overcurrent and cause a fire. I would say fix your old one properly or get an EVR. Love mine. But above all else, put a fuse in the circuit.
 
Hi 31,

I went with the exact look-alike voltage regulator suggested in reply #5, about 7 years ago.

I think my 6 volt battery is now 7 years old, about same age as my Fun Projects Regulator, and my battery appears as strong as when new.

Similarly, not trying to condemn authentic, early vintage items such as telephone directory pages ........... but also, as far as today's more modern one on one comparisons ........ most will agree Charmin is a definite upgrade one gets used to ....... and seems after use, not many will ever want to return to using the old authentic yellow and white pages.
 
eagle said:
Put a fuse in-line! No matter what type of cut-out you use, they CAN overcurrent and cause a fire. I would say fix your old one properly or get an EVR. Love mine. But above all else, put a fuse in the circuit.
Click to expand...

Fuse is already done. But I'm not a fan of having them blow either! ;)
 
ItsA31 said:
Fuse is already done. But I'm not a fan of having them blow either! ;)
Click to expand...

Typically two conditions will cause a fuse to blow. Overcurrent is number one (that's desirable, it's why we use them) and number two, extreme heat can cause a fuse to degrade. Rule of thumb I use is fuse at 2 or 2.5 the maximum peak current the circuit is designed for. In the case of the model A ignition, I would error on the high side because it is a critical circuit. Meaning the engine lights etc are all dependent on the single circuit. If extreme heat is a factor, move the fuse to a cooler location. Also take the fuse out periodically and inspect it. You'll be able to see if heat is affecting it. Plastic fuses such as the ATC type will show distortion to the plastic. Glass fuses will show warping in the element or distortion to the solder in the caps. Use an accurate ammeter to determine your PEAK circuit current.
 
Years ago I went to a 6 v single wire positive ground ALTERNATOR easy to do...The Model A is now going on 12 years with the same battery... B0b
 
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