Please help, any advice?

I was also thinking it sounds a lot like the problems I had when using 10% ethanol crap gas, but I believe the owner said he is using the good gas.
 
I think it's a fuel problem. Do I understand you have a filter in the fuel line seperate from the one in the carb and the one in the settling bowl? If you do, take it out. The A's gravity feed doesn't give enough pressure for a modern filter. I also do not trust coating the inside of the tank. What did you use? Are you sure it's alky proof? Are you finding any little bits of coating material when you clean screens and filters?
 
Geo. H said:
I think it's a fuel problem. Do I understand you have a filter in the fuel line seperate from the one in the carb and the one in the settling bowl? If you do, take it out. The A's gravity feed doesn't give enough pressure for a modern filter. I also do not trust coating the inside of the tank. What did you use? Are you sure it's alky proof? Are you finding any little bits of coating material when you clean screens and filters?
Click to expand...

I have all three filters with fine brass mesh. I have checked all, with no debris. I used a commercial tank sealer from Mike's. I used a flexible fiberoptic scope to inspect the tank. nothing
But thanks for the input
 
I had a very similar problem. Had a brand new repop distributor so I knew that wasnt the problem. I rebuilt the carb again. Drained all the gas and replaced it. Then rebuilt the sediment bowl. Nothing worked. Even though I had a brand new distributor I pulled it out and put in the old worn out one with barely any point gap and a worn out shaft. Ran perfect. I replaced the condenser in the repop dist and it runs like a champ. Condensers are cheap and I would give it a try.
 
ctvpa said:
Would a condenser problem be intermittent? And would it change with adjusting the choke?
Click to expand...

Yes, condenser can start acting up when it gets hot, work better when cools.

Yes, weak spark from bad condenser can be compensated for with richer mixture.

It is not impossible...
 
At one point you said that you were going to try the carb from your roadster. I don't recall reading that you did that. If you did, what were the results?
As others have said, try a new coil and then a new condenser (one at a time). Don't question how this could be the problem, just do it to prove that some of us may be wrong. You might surprise yourself. Good luck. Don/WI
 
Same thing happened to me two summers ago on a club tour in Michigan/Wisconsin.. I fought for DAYS, never knowing when it might occur. I nursed it home and drained the fuel tank.. It hasn't happened since. As near as I could tell, It started not long after a I bought gas in southern Michigan.
 
Del in NE Ohio said:
Same thing happened to me two summers ago on a club tour in Michigan/Wisconsin.. I fought for DAYS, never knowing when it might occur. I nursed it home and drained the fuel tank.. It hasn't happened since. As near as I could tell, It started not long after a I bought gas in southern Michigan.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your help, I have drained the tank, cleaned the carb, checked the float, removed all the gas lines and ran a wire brush through it.
Please keep thinking
 
I work long hours during the week, I will change the carb this weekend and post an update. I did have time to put a multimeter on everything and it checks out. But remember I could not check things during the event, because I can't just catch it.

I thank you all for your input. I will keep you updated.
 
ctvpa said:
I work long hours during the week, I will change the carb this weekend and post an update. I did have time to put a multimeter on everything and it checks out. But remember I could not check things during the event, because I can't just catch it.

I thank you all for your input. I will keep you updated.
Click to expand...

Don't over interpret your multimeter data. Proper voltages mean you have a fully charged battery, no broken connections or fuses, and no shorts--RIGHT THEN. However, if the problem is an intermittent contact, a good reading just means you don't have the problem right at the moment. If the problem is a poor, weak connection, you will still see the full, proper voltage under no-load test conditions.

Steve
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top