I had posted earlier that I have gunk in my gas tank. I'm trying to decided if I want to remove the tank and have it professionally cleaned or try to clean it out on the car. I was thinking that maybe I could remove the sediment bowl screen and put a clear plastic filter in temporary to catch everything and see how bad it is. I don't really like this idea, but it's a thought. Are they a fire hazard? Will they cut down on fuel flow? Anyone else use one?
Plastic Fuel Filters
- Thread starter CatMan1
- Start date
Canton_Model_A's
Senior Member
disconnect fuel line at the carb, drain into safe container.
That could work, too. I am concerned that even after I get these rust particles out there will be more later.
I would:
1: drain the entire tank using a filter into a gas can.
2: Remove the shutoff under the tank.
3: Look to see if there is a pencil filter installed, you should have one.
4: Use the above filer that bobc mentioned. They are great and do not cut the fuel rate at all. They are not a fire hazard.
1: drain the entire tank using a filter into a gas can.
2: Remove the shutoff under the tank.
3: Look to see if there is a pencil filter installed, you should have one.
4: Use the above filer that bobc mentioned. They are great and do not cut the fuel rate at all. They are not a fire hazard.
When I had the Pencil Filter installed things seemed to get worse. Unless it was just a coincidence......
Synchro909
Well-known member
I have used one of those plastic filters on my cars for years. The last thing I want when I'm a hundred miles from the nearest town is a fuel blockage when they are sooo easy to avoid. I have had to change the filer roadside but that only takes a few minutes and we're on our way again.
BTW, if the filter is mounted vertically, you can monitor how choked up it is by watching how high the fuel is inside. A clear, new filter will have only a very thin line of fuel in the bottom. A filter close to disposal will be nearly full. The sediment clogs the filter from the bottom and as it becomes blocked, the fuel must go through the filter higher than where it is clogged. I always carry a spare.
Obviously, my cars are drivers so practical measures such as this are not only allowable (IMHO) but highly desirable. I fully understand why a purist who wants his car to be the way Henry made it would not want anything to do with a visible, non standard filter.
BTW, if the filter is mounted vertically, you can monitor how choked up it is by watching how high the fuel is inside. A clear, new filter will have only a very thin line of fuel in the bottom. A filter close to disposal will be nearly full. The sediment clogs the filter from the bottom and as it becomes blocked, the fuel must go through the filter higher than where it is clogged. I always carry a spare.
Obviously, my cars are drivers so practical measures such as this are not only allowable (IMHO) but highly desirable. I fully understand why a purist who wants his car to be the way Henry made it would not want anything to do with a visible, non standard filter.
My caution is to make sure that any plastic filter is located well away from the exhaust manifold and muffler. If the plastic melts then you'll have a stream of fuel running and a good chance of a catastrophic fire. Same goes for rubber or neoprene fuel lines.
The old VW bugs and busses did not come with a fuel filter but many folks installed one between the fuel pump and the carburetor. Most such aftermarket filters were installed with dodgy clamps or no clamps at all. The air-cooled VW engine bay could get pretty darned hot and, if the filter came free of the fuel line, there was fuel spraying all over which usually resulted in a fire. As With the Model A, the fuel is supplied from the tank via gravity flow so any such fire would have a steady feed of flammable liquid. Unlike the Model A, the air-cooled VW's had no shut-off valve to stop the flow. In the desert Southwest it was once not unusual to see the burned up shell of an air-cooled VW on the side of the road. Clean gasoline burns just as well as dirty gas.
The old VW bugs and busses did not come with a fuel filter but many folks installed one between the fuel pump and the carburetor. Most such aftermarket filters were installed with dodgy clamps or no clamps at all. The air-cooled VW engine bay could get pretty darned hot and, if the filter came free of the fuel line, there was fuel spraying all over which usually resulted in a fire. As With the Model A, the fuel is supplied from the tank via gravity flow so any such fire would have a steady feed of flammable liquid. Unlike the Model A, the air-cooled VW's had no shut-off valve to stop the flow. In the desert Southwest it was once not unusual to see the burned up shell of an air-cooled VW on the side of the road. Clean gasoline burns just as well as dirty gas.
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
I use the same filter.
I purchased an AA truck this past summer. The fuel tank looks good inside, but there was so much really fine rust in there that the float valve of the carb stuck open, flooding the carb. Usually multiple times a drive. If there was a competition for how fast one could take off and clean a carb, I'd win it. I've had that much practice.
I tried first adding a glass sediment bowl. The rust still got past the fine screen. I added a WIX filter inside the sediment bowl. Rust still got through. I finally figured out the filter was defective - the glue that holds the paper to the metal cap was not tightly sealed, leaving gaps for the rust to still get through. I'd ordered a set of 6 WIX filters and every single one was the same way. Once I knew what to look for, the two filters I bought from NAPA were the same way. In desperation, I came up with a novel approach. Not a solution for those who want original, but it works for me and allows me to enjoy my truck.
I purchased a water separating fuel filter from Bass Pro Shops (amazon carries many of similar design). I used two 100 pound magnets bolted to the fuel filter housing to attach it to my firewall so I didn't have to drill any new holes. This truck bounces down the winding, rutted, bumpy back roads of WV and those magnets hold tight with no issues. I haven't yet replaced the sediment bowl on my car with this system, but I plan to. It's made a huge difference on my truck - I went from multiple issues every ride to absolutely none.
I tried first adding a glass sediment bowl. The rust still got past the fine screen. I added a WIX filter inside the sediment bowl. Rust still got through. I finally figured out the filter was defective - the glue that holds the paper to the metal cap was not tightly sealed, leaving gaps for the rust to still get through. I'd ordered a set of 6 WIX filters and every single one was the same way. Once I knew what to look for, the two filters I bought from NAPA were the same way. In desperation, I came up with a novel approach. Not a solution for those who want original, but it works for me and allows me to enjoy my truck.
I purchased a water separating fuel filter from Bass Pro Shops (amazon carries many of similar design). I used two 100 pound magnets bolted to the fuel filter housing to attach it to my firewall so I didn't have to drill any new holes. This truck bounces down the winding, rutted, bumpy back roads of WV and those magnets hold tight with no issues. I haven't yet replaced the sediment bowl on my car with this system, but I plan to. It's made a huge difference on my truck - I went from multiple issues every ride to absolutely none.
Attachments
Tacoma Bob
Well-known member
Not sure of what the magnet is actually composed of in my sedan. It is used to control Heart pacemakers. I mount it under the tank next to the gas petcock.
Werner
Well-known member
Guten Abend.
I have the same problem, a lot of it. The inside of the tank is badly rusted.
I've fitted the glass bowl with the special paper liner, then added a plastic fuel filter too in the fuel line, and I'm still finding lots of small particles in the carburetor.
So I routinely clean it every 500 km.
The idea of putting some strong neodymium magnets under the bottom of the tank is excellent, thanks!
I have the same problem, a lot of it. The inside of the tank is badly rusted.
I've fitted the glass bowl with the special paper liner, then added a plastic fuel filter too in the fuel line, and I'm still finding lots of small particles in the carburetor.
So I routinely clean it every 500 km.
The idea of putting some strong neodymium magnets under the bottom of the tank is excellent, thanks!
Attachments
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
I was always told that iron oxide (rust) was not magnetic.