Pitting on Deck Surface, How Much is Too Much?

[Scotty's 52 F3]

Hopefully these images are good enough for the experts to see. I get to check this block out before I buy it. I have found NO cracks, it is STD bore and I pressure checked it.

The pitting on the deck bothers me. This is my first Flathead build so I am asking for opinions on how much it will take to clean up the deck surfaces.

 

[Scotty's 52 F3]

I greased up some head gaskets and bolted the heads on. Fabbed up some block off plates and filled the water jackets with Phosphoric Acid. They look like new inside now. I pressure checked with a bicycle pump with both air and water. No leaks.

I didn't have the block mag'd yet. I dye checked it and found no cracks with this method.

 

[V8COOPMAN]

That is the type of pitting you see as the result of leaving a block submerged in a MOLASSAS de-rusting solution for too-long a period of time. DD

 

[Charlie ny]

Scotty,
I'd buy it and have it decked.....010 - .012 will clean it up......use
Best graphite head gaskets. It does include the bearing caps........yes ?
Charlie ny

 

[Bored&Stroked]

I'm with Charlie - it will need to be decked in order to have a better deck surface. Also, make sure you check the piston to head clearance once you have the work done. Depending on the heads, there is a chance that you'll be a bit tight in squish (though I doubt it). If I may ask, what are they asking for the block? And hopefully it has the main caps and the main bearing bores are not all pitted as well?

 

[Scotty's 52 F3]

Yes it does have the main bearing caps. The pitting is only on the deck and intake surface. Well the bores are rusty but not pits. I removed the main bearings and cam bearings as well as the pump drive gear. I wanted the Merc crank but, the guy would only sell it as a package deal.

I got a .010/.010 Merc 4 inch crank and a set of rods still boxed and bagged from the machine shop. Ready to go. I verified the stroke and mic'd it all out.

The seller is a Purple Heart recipient, Viet-Nam vet and unable to finish his project. This is all that was left. His asking price is $975 OBO. I asked if he would let me take pics to get opinions on the block and if he would hold it for me until I do.

I gave him $600 for the crank and rods and he said he trusted another vet to be straight up with him. Said to have the block checked and if it is no good chuck it. It's looking like a good block so far so I guess I'll be sending him some money. He is 4 hours away.

I really appreciate the advice here. Thanks to everyone.

 

[supereal]

As a matter of course, we always deck the block before reassembly, taking only enough material off to present a clean gasket surface. Properly done, it will have no effect on the engine operation. Have the cylinder bores checked for size and taper, and the crank to see if overside bearings are needed, just to be sure. We hone the bores to assist in break in with a good cross hatch pattern.

 

[Scotty's 52 F3]

I appreciate the feedback and will end up getting it decked. I just have to decide on how much to bore. Looking for torque for my heavy F3.

I really didn't want the block originally but, I see a little trail of what might be coolant coming from passenger side exhaust port on my currently running but tired engine. Might not look so good when I get it apart.

 

[Scotty's 52 F3]

Found the beginning of two cracks. Anything need to be done with them?

 

[Brian]

99.9% of flatheads have those cracks; nothing to worry about

 

[Frank Miller]

Use thread sealer on the bolts.

 

[Russ/40]

When decking, don't try to eliminate the pits, that would be far too big a cut. I'd keep it to a max of .010". The result will be fine.

 

[Scotty's 52 F3]

THANKS EVERYONE! I now have a plan.