Pitman Arm

twilder

twilder

Member
I am replacing a stock pitman arm with the shortened one. Should the pitman arm bolt be torqued or just tightened snug. If torqued, to what?
 
I used an inpact gun - very carefully - to snug it up a bit more after I had hand tightened it with a 1/2" ratchet as much as I could get it. However, be careful because I actually stripped a bolt.

Dick
 
Thanks. I tightened it up as tight as I could (hand tight), then I tapped the ratchet with a hammer to line the cotter key hole up. Should that be sufficient?
 
The design of the pitman arm is rather poor, as a lot of strain is on that bolt. I know it is not proper, but I use a grade 8 bolt, with a grade 8 self locking nut. I dont have a lot of faith in the new grade 5 bolts on the market these days, and original bolts tend to be stretched or thread worn to the point I would not use them.
 
My experience is a little different so I have a different take on it. It may be "a California thing", but I've never encountered a damaged Pittman arm bolt or one that I wouldn't trust more than a Chinese grade 8 bolt from the hardware store. The thing I would trust least is a grade 3 or grade 5 at best repro bolt.

The one issue I HAVE seen a couple times is steering where the car has been used with the pittman arm bolt left a bit loose for years. The result is the square end of the sector shaft deforming to a slight diamond shape. If not too severe the pittman arm bolt can be tightened enough for the arm to conform to the shape. This is less than ideal but can keep the car on the road safely for awhile. Not doing so introduces slop to the steering that is unacceptable.
 
Marco Tahtaras said:
My experience is a little different so I have a different take on it. It may be "a California thing", but I've never encountered a damaged Pittman arm bolt or one that I wouldn't trust more than a Chinese grade 8 bolt from the hardware store. The thing I would trust least is a grade 3 or grade 5 at best repro bolt.

The one issue I HAVE seen a couple times is steering where the car has been used with the pittman arm bolt left a bit loose for years. The result is the square end of the sector shaft deforming to a slight diamond shape. If not too severe the pittman arm bolt can be tightened enough for the arm to conform to the shape. This is less than ideal but can keep the car on the road safely for awhile. Not doing so introduces slop to the steering that is unacceptable.
Click to expand...
Marco,
What does "California Thing" mean?:confused: Is it GOOD:D or Bad:eek:?? Bill W.
 
My shortened pitman arm works good, but has shortened my turning radius. Could I improve this by grinding some material off the stop nuts that secure the kingpin bolts?
 
glenn in camino said:
My shortened pitman arm works good, but has shortened my turning radius. Could I improve this by grinding some material off the stop nuts that secure the kingpin bolts?
Click to expand...

That might work, but then it could result in your tires hitting your brake rods on sharp turns.
 
glenn in camino said:
My shortened pitman arm works good, but has shortened my turning radius. Could I improve this by grinding some material off the stop nuts that secure the kingpin bolts?
Click to expand...

I doubt it. The turning radius has shortened because the pittman arm is shorter, resulting in less range of movement of the drag link. Your spindle stops are probably now stopping short of the stop nuts. Whats stopping the turning radius is that the worm is at the end of the sector.
 
If your turning radius is reduced after installing the shorter arm then you can't be hitting the stops now.If it was hitting the stops before and after the radius would not have changed.It can't.It wouldn't matter if the pitman arm was a foot long or six inches long.Once the spindles hit the stops that is the limit of the radius.I've installed a dozen,probably more,and have never had it happen.That has all been on two tooth boxes,but somebody said it could happen on a seven tooth.I've never done anything on a seven tooth except to take them out and replace them with two tooths.
 
The pitman arm retaining bolt should be spot torqued.

Not familiar with spot torquing? As a registered professional mechanical engineer in two western states (California and Idaho) let me enlighten you:

Procedure for Spot Torquing

1. Clean and properly lubricate (machine oil, anti-seize, etc.) all threads on bolt and threaded nut.
2. Install bolt (ensuring the head properly engages the land on the pitman arm) locking ring/washer (if any) and threaded nut.
3. Tighten threaded nut finger tight.
4. Obtain the proper size wrench with the longest handle possible.
5. Install an extension (cf: "cheater") on the wrench handle if room allows.
6. Place the wrench/wrench extension assembly on the snugged-up threaded nut.
7. Take a deep breath and pull on the wrench/wrench extension assembly with both hands until you see spots in front of your eyes.
8. Remove wrench and install cotter pin if using a castellated nut.
 
LOL....And to think all this time I thought the spots were the start of a migraine .


Napa Skip said:
The pitman arm retaining bolt should be spot torqued.

Not familiar with spot torquing? As a registered professional mechanical engineer in two western states (California and Idaho) let me enlighten you:

Procedure for Spot Torquing

1. Clean and properly lubricate (machine oil, anti-seize, etc.) all threads on bolt and threaded nut.
2. Install bolt (ensuring the head properly engages the land on the pitman arm) locking ring/washer (if any) and threaded nut.
3. Tighten threaded nut finger tight.
4. Obtain the proper size wrench with the longest handle possible.
5. Install an extension (cf: "cheater") on the wrench handle if room allows.
6. Place the wrench/wrench extension assembly on the snugged-up threaded nut.
7. Take a deep breath and pull on the wrench/wrench extension assembly with both hands until you see spots in front of your eyes.
8. Remove wrench and install cotter pin if using a castellated nut.
Click to expand...
 
Napa, I see spots while standing over the American Standard. Perhaps I am pulling too hard or not taking a deep enough breath. :rolleyes:
 
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