Pitman arm

Thanks redmodelt. You have responded to several of my inquiries since last winter and I appreciate all your help as well as that from others here on the Fordbarn. This '25 Coupe is my 4th T ('26 speedster, a very original '20 touring and an excellent '15 roadster being the others), and was purchased as a "restored" car about 6 weeks ago. Since then I've spent almost every day fixing things that were done poorly or not at all. This car was supposedly done 15 years ago and went through three owners that put a total of less than 300 miles on it, mostly because they couldn't drive it and/or couldn't start it. Some of the things I've repaired or replaced include: carburetor and intake, generator, cutout (regulator), coils and coil box, timer, trunk floor, seat backrest frame, fan hub bushings, trunk lock, door closing hardware, quarter window mechanisms (both sides), spindles, spindle arms, bushings, and pins, lower steering support, steering box gears and cover, and the pitman arm.
Hard to believe that a "restored" car should require so much attention, but it turns out that it was more of a mix-mash of good, and sometimes not so good used parts installed on a very nice solid Coupe.
The steering seemed to me to be way too direct, and I discovered that it has 4 to 1 gears instead of 5 to 1 and with the long pitman arm gave the too direct feeling. I had a new short pitman arm and installed it (after changing the lower support that was worn oblong) , and the steering would easily go over centre an a right turn although the "too direct" feeling was gone. I also discovered that there is no limiting groove and long pin in the steering case, so it must be a pre 1921 case. I'm leaving the short pitman arm on and have built a positive stop for the pitman are to prevent any over centre chance.
Thanks again for your help, I may need more. Bruce
 
We/I try and help the best we can! :) I see a lot of those "RESTORED" cars coming up and more often. You know the ones I mean, first class job on the outside but no or little attention to the running gear. The kind that gets driven once a year or very little, them ice cream trips.
 
I agree. I trailered this car home and within 10 minutes on the hoist ,knew it was a long way from being roadworthy. I don't know if it's a matter of cost, incompetence, or ignorance but it's becoming the norm in the old car hobby. Two years ago I went through virtually the same scenario with a "restored" '54 Mercury from California. Sooner rather than later there will be a major accident involving one of these "restorations" and the Government will really get involved with regular inspections that could possibly kill the hobby. Up here, I see lots of vehicles at shows and cruise nights that absolutely should not be on the road, and I'm talking everything from so called restorations to rat-rods. Thanks again : Bruce
 
I think part of it is not the current restorations but the ones from the 80's and before. These are the ones that seem to be hitting the market because that is about the age group that is selling them off.
 
I've been down that road too. My 1923 touring looked fine, but the guys who "restored" it for the previous owner did a fair job on the body and ignored the chassis. He was clueless, and being new to this game so was I. Since then I've rebuilt the rear axle (shot thrust washers), the front end (bushings worn through), the NH (rust holes through the bowl), and I've been replacing plastic-insulated wiring and Phillips screws and other wrong fasteners. Live and learn.
 
The first indicator of the restoration quality was the four clevis pins for the brake rods were almost cut completely through and secured with old used cotter pins. Why would anyone take the time to re-install worn out junk that could be replaced for under $2.00 ??? The list goes on and on and on.....Go figure . Bruce
 
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