Pistons

I've heard you can hear the ocean if you put a sea shell to you ear. Can you hear an engine running if you use pistons for ears? :)
 
Some have questioned Egge pistons, but I've had very good luck with them, made in U.S., and they make a thin-ring version for all the sizes up to .125. Less friction and they break in quicker.
 
My suggestion is to use Silv-O-Lite pistons. They are US made, been around for years. You can look them up on line. Several of the major Model A suppliers use to sell them.

I personally would not go out to 120. I would have the block sleeved back to standard.

Several of the major Model A suppliers switched to selling pistons made in China a few years ago.

Tom Endy
 
I like silv-o-lite pistons too. Some are afraid of large bores but I run 4" bores on a couple of my engines, including ones I race. I've seen race engines tat are 4.060". If there are no sleeves, there will be no problem with them!
 
I didn't know A pistons were made in .120.I thought they went from .100 to .125.Are they making them in that size again? I have a friend right now looking for one .045 piston.His are all marked,.045,with just one bad one.His was done back in the 50's sometime.
 
Tell your friend to buy a .040" oversized piston and knurl it to fit the cylinder, that is if you can buy just one? Don't think they make .120 anymore, or several other sizes they made years ago?
 
EGGS will make me a set of .120 over. But then nobody makes .120 rings.
Cant afford sleeves, to go back any.

Need an answer?????????
 
Missouri A said:
EGGS will make me a set of .120 over. But then nobody makes .120 rings.
Cant afford sleeves, to go back any.

Need an answer?????????
Click to expand...

'answer'.
Have Egge make you a set of .125 over !
That is what I did, and mine use the modern thin ring set.

Hmm, I would think that 'common' sense would tell a guy that to use .125 pistons, that the hole would have to be reamed/made to fit the piston... guess common sense isn't so common, eh :)
 
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What am I missing? Why not just bore to .125 and buy a set of .125 pistons like the rest of the world does?I've had three of my own like that,Back in the 70's when I did them I got some people telling me that it would overheat,heat up,not live long,and a half dozen other things.The machine shop I used said run it,don't worry about it.Two are still running strong,and I have no idea about the third one because I sold it in 09,but it was still running strong at that time.
 
Keith True said:
What am I missing? Why not just bore to .125 and buy a set of .125 pistons like the rest of the world does?I've had three of my own like that,Back in the 70's when I did them I got some people telling me that it would overheat,heat up,not live long,and a half dozen other things.The machine shop I used said run it,don't worry about it.Two are still running strong,and I have no idea about the third one because I sold it in 09,but it was still running strong at that time.
Click to expand...

I have bored them to .155 before no heat problem.
 
You could contact JP Pistons in Adelaide, South Australia. They will custom make a set of pistons for you, including matching rings. Not Chinese either, high quality Australian product. And with the current exchange rate, they won't break your wallet either.
 
Missouri A said:
EGGS will make me a set of .120 over. But then nobody makes .120 rings.
Cant afford sleeves, to go back any.

Need an answer?????????
Click to expand...

You could have the block honed to .125 or have pistons made at .120 then file the ends of the rings to fit. I would go for the hone job.

I would rather have the oversize pistons, then some ones poor sleeve job. Sleeves are ok (have put many in over the years) but no sleeves is better.
Model A's have enough problems with the two back cylinders running hot.
Sleeves do not transfer the heat as well as no sleeve.
 
Thanks for all the feedback on my "TOY"
I have found a new set of .120 over pistons and rings, head gasket.

After looking everything over, and honing cyclender walls. I will go back with .120

One thing I did not like was all rod nuts were of different style some original, no cotter pins, some self locking, one or two were the same socket size.:mad::mad::mad::mad:

Babbit is some of the best I have ever seen. Crank and rods are perfect.:D:D:D:D

Now to have the crank balanced and wait for new pistons.

Hope to have it back together for the Route 66 celebration next month here in Springfield.

Ya all have a great day.

Back to the BARN

Stan
 
Thanks for the reply. This is what the machine shop is doing now. I know #4 is a little larger after hone. Will know more this afternoon.


EGGS are making the pistons

Stan
 
since the engine is out, be sure to put the same number of shims in the same places they were under the 2 upper FW housing 'ears' where they bolt to the block.

Many will suggest a piston to wall clearance of at least .0035-.004
Do not use modern specs for a modern engine.
Do a search on here to see what the pros suggest
 
tbirdtbird said:
since the engine is out, be sure to put the same number of shims in the same places they were under the 2 upper FW housing 'ears' where they bolt to the block.

Many will suggest a piston to wall clearance of at least .0035-.004
Do not use modern specs for a modern engine.
Do a search on here to see what the pros suggest
Click to expand...

I agree .0035- .004
.002 it is to tight. number 3or 4 will score
 
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