Piston rings?

G

Gino

Senior Member
Hi, let me begin with, I love Snyders, but the last two set of rings I ordered did not work, the three piece oil rings were too tight in both sets. We ended op custom fitting, by grinding them and checking the torque with each piston. It all worked out but I'd like to avoid the hassle this time thanks.
 
Were these Hastings brand? Are there any other brands available? Just looking for info, no complaints on Hastings.
 
I used Hastings from Snyder's in a newly sleeved back to original bore in my coupe engine last year. I set the ring clearances to mfg. specs. That engine was very tight. Now at about 1800 miles it is finally getting seated and broken in. No other problems.
 
Use a lot of Hastings rings from Synder,s always check end gap and always within a thou or so
Never had any problems with them
 
What do you mean by 'too tight' ? Was the stack too thick ? Many times the piston needs to be cut, or, grooves really really cleaned.
 
You did mention "3 piece oil rings", and these are much easier to mess up. It's easy to get the ends of the expander overlapped, instead of butted to each other. It's also easy for the rail to pop out of the ring compressor before it enters the cylinder bore. Then a light tap with the hammer handle can bend the ring.
 
I used Grant rings in my last build. I wondered if Hastings were like they used to be 40 yrs ago. Back then you only used them in old junk engines that really needed rebored. They had so much tension they would seat in almost any cylinder. Downside was they didn't last. I hope they are not like that now.
 
Was trying not to be wordy lol. After we installed the rings we realized the engine was very difficult to turn over. The gap clearance was to small in the oil rings. Had a friend from a machine shop come over and measure both the pistons and the cylinder walls and every thing was true 60 over within very small tolerance. I hope I'm wording this correctly I'm not a machinist. So we ordered more rings from Snyders and were left with the same results. We solved the problem by custom or blue printing the rings. I know of a man who had the same problem but ordered rings from a different manufacturer and the new rings were perfect. I have no way of getting in contact with this man, so here I am. Thanks for the info and I'll check on the grant rings.
 
Did you check the depth of the ring grooves as compared to the width of the rings? There are some pistons that were sold in the past that had shallower ring grooves and could cause the more commonly dimensioned rings to run tight or seize. The older Hastings ring sets came with a small depth guage and directions for checking this aspect before installing their rings.
I acquired a load of older Model A/B piston and ring sets years ago and have been surprised at the variations in design and materials available for this one part of the engine: split skirts, either full or partial, odd sized pistons, rings of various metallurgy, rings with steps, bevels, or none at all, rings for rebores versus rings for re-ringing a worn bore, etc., etc. - definitely an evolving science.
 
Fresh rebuilds are pretty tight to turn over, and the rope seal adds a lot of friction at first. I would check each piston to cylinder clearance first, then check the ring gaps by pushing them into the bore with the piston, to keep them square to the bore. Then check the ring depth in the groove and the side clearance.
 
Hasting rings always come with to tight of ring end gap, as that is the way they should be.

That is up to the engine builder to fit them to spec's.

If they are made to fit a new cylinder, you couldn't fit them to a used cylinder, they may have to big of gaps.

As Patrick L. said, if a used piston, those ring grooves have to be clean, and not dinged up from the groove cleaner, or bumping them on something.

On a New piston, you have to check to see if the grooves have gotten damaged, many have, and the ring will get stuck in the groove, and won't turn a round the whole groove. You should never have to sand the ring for thickness.

In a new cylinder, always use a cast ring. In a used cylinder, always use a chrome ring.
 
Hmmm, all very interesting and I thank everyone. Should I find the progress worth your time I'll post it. I do know that a professional engine builder would do a bang up job, but farting around with these rusty engines allows my brother and I much time together. In the end I'll have two engines done right, by a pro,Thanks a lot.
 
Kohnke, Not sure i understand useing them on a new cylinder vs used , What is a NEW Cylinder? are you talking new re built and honed., or just doing a ring job. 60 over is 60 over is what i think.
And are you useing chrome rings when you just do a ring job?.
This is all new to me. Thanks for your Input T.
 
CAPE A said:
Kohnke, Not sure i understand useing them on a new cylinder vs used , What is a NEW Cylinder? are you talking new re built and honed., or just doing a ring job. 60 over is 60 over is what i think.
And are you useing chrome rings when you just do a ring job?.
This is all new to me. Thanks for your Input T.
Click to expand...

A new cylinder is a rebored cylinder to spec's.

60 over is 60 over when new, used is 60 over plus what ever wear is beyond that, plus the cylinder is not perfectly round anymore, from top to bottom.

We don't use chrome rings for anything, as all of ours are all rebored.

It takes a long time for an old cylinder to seat the rings, as for a round ring to fit an egg shaped hole, the cast ring has to wear off to fit next to the cylinder for to seal off the oil.

Herm.
 
I'm surprised you assumed the ring gap was correct. I always check each ring. Many times they are a perfect fit out of the box, but many times they are too tight. All it takes to ruin your engine is one tight ring. Ounce of prevention and all that...
 
I always check at the top of the cyl and the bottom. Cylinders wear tapered and it will be tightest in the bottom. That's bottom of the stroke, not bottom of the cylinder.
Terry
 
I installed a set of .080 over Hastings today. Top and middle rings end gapwas .017 and the oil rings were at .020. Went in and fit great as always.
 
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