Pinion seal still leaking after replacement

C

cjc56

Senior Member
I have a 56 tbird that had a bad leak coming from the pinion seal. I bought a new seal and replaced the seal according to the manual procedures. The yoke shaft had very little scaring on it and I did not think the yoke would need to be replaced. Before I remove it and try another I thought I would seek advice from the forum members.
 
If the scaring is where the seal lip rides, it could leak, as the lip only touches the smooth area, it won't touch the bottom of a dip or imperfection.
 
Its difficult to get a new seal installed right around the pinion shaft, you probably tweaked it trying to pound it in. If worried about the surface on the yoke they are inexpensive and its just as easy to slip a new one on as reusing the old.
A=Model Man had good advice about the vent too.
 
I was told to put a locktite thread sealer around the pinion threads and I always use #2 permatex on the outside of the seal itself. Checking the vent as previously suggested is a must. Just my way. Jim.T.
 
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Thanks for the advise. I will try again but this time I will install a new Speedi sleeve even if the surface looks unscared. I yes the speedi sleeve will add some diameter to the shaft and thus improve the seal.
 
another old time trick is to remove the wire spring inside the lip of the seal, find where the spring is screwed together, unscrew it, it goes together like a nut and bolt, cut of a 1/4", put it back together and re install it in the seal, doing that tightens the seal lips, make sure you oil the seal lips and the yoke, if you don't the seals will melt and not seal, using a redi sleeve is probmatic, ive seen the seals cut thru them and leak, use a seal driver so you don't damage the seal, if you have room set the seal a little deeper
so the yoke doesn't turn in the same place as the old seal
 
Make sure you don't have oil coming from the splines between the pinion and flange. Originally there was a rubber washer under the nut to prevent this. Today the factory just uses a dab of silicone smeared on the inside of the comp flange splines before installing it on the pinion shaft. Be sure to wash off the oil film first
 
Craig, I know when I took the yoke off that the only thing under the nut was a steel washer. I am not sure if this is where the oil leak was because the area was very wet with oil/grease. Can you explain a little more about where to put silicone? Is it to be put between the washer and nut or the washer and shaft?
 
My pinion leaked after the new seal was replaced, turned out the splines were leaking. We cleaned it and applied permatex high tack, problem solved, Mark
 
oil resistant rubber washers with "notches" cut on the edges so that they match the splines are available. they fit around the pinion shaft after the companion flange is installed then the washer and then the nut. not all applications use these, but you may be able to get one at some place like napa. they come in some gasket sets for transfer cases, transmissions, etc. you may be able to purchase one to match your needs if you can find a "good" parts man, unfortunately they are becoming a thing of the past. if "it aint in the computer by application", it does not exist. a trans rebuild shop also may help. hope this gives you another option.
 
Ford quit using the rubber washers years a go and went with the sealer. Remove the companion flange and clean out the splines with carb spray and make sure there is no oily residue left. Do the same to the pinion splines. Smear some silicone into the splines inside the flange. When you reassemble the flange to the pinion, the silicone will push out of the nut end, but it will seal the splines. Leave the excess silicone alone, put on the washer and nut. You may still have a seal lip problem, but it won't leak thru the splines
 
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