Pinion puller

Invest in this good set,
It pulls rear drums
Sector worms
Trans and axle bearings
Diff bearings
And whatever else you need done....
It's one of the best universal tools in my box
Guaranteed for life
 

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As a KR Wilson tool junkie I'm partial to the AATA KRW puller. You still have to remove the pinion (KRW A330 tool) and replace the bearings on the pinion as well.
The new tools snyders and brattons sells are solutions but not always the best as John said.

Heating the bearings on a light bulb prior to putting them on the pinion helps greatly.
good luck!


Larry Shepard
 
I used this from Snyders when I installed overdrive. It is not strong enough to reliably do the job. Mine bent when attempting extract the pinion. I had to drill and tap 3 more holes and use three more bolts to double the pull. I would not buy this. jw hash confirms my experience. Buy the Mitchell from Steve Mitchell who makes the Overdrive.
 
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Even using the original KRW pinion/race puller is a hard pull sometimes. Some of the pinions I have pulled that little tool would fold up and quit.
Heat works when you install the race but heating up the housing to pull the race, the race is going to heat up and expand too.
 
Our region has that one and like others have said it's too weak and bends. I had that as well as other rear end tools that Tom Endy came up with made by a friend. That piece we used 1/2" plate.
 
The pinion pullers sold by the suppliers today will pull 50-60% of pinions before they will begin to collapse. The other problem is that their use by design will destroy the pre-load setting of the pinion bearings if one actually exists. This is ok if you are taking the rear apart for a complete overhaul.

If you are pulling the rear to install an overdrive, you do not want to destroy the pinion bearing pre-load setting. In this case the pinion puller supplied by the Mitchell Company is what you should use. You can purchase one from the Mitchell Company or rent it if you are buying one of their overdrives. The Mitchell pinion puller will pull 80-90% of pinions before it begins to collapse.

I don't know anything about the KR Wilson puller, as I have no experience with them. The one I had fabricated will pull 100% of existing pinions and it will not collapse. The secret to a good pinion puller is one that has a device that solidly clamps to the drive shaft and will not move no amount of how much pressure is put on it. The rest of the puller should have stout enough hardware to prevent it from collapsing.

Some of these pinion assemblies that have been rusted and not been apart in 85 years can be very difficult to get apart.

Tom Endy
 
As Tom Endy says the Mitchell unit is good. you can also undo the pinion preload and remove with the rear axle disassembled by removing the two pinion nuts and the front bearing. They usually come fairly easily after being in a while. You can them remove the pinion itself from the driveshaft and other bearing with a standard bearing puller. As I said previously installed the new bearings is much easier with light bulb heat for 20 minutes and then installed quickly.

Note: there is a preload process and specification for setting the pinion bearing preload. Tom has an excellent article on their clubs website or the process can as well be found elsewhere in other publications. Experience is and careful attention is key .
Larry Shepard
 
hit it a few times with carb cleaner, the old grease gets to be like glue. then heat the
banjo and use the puller going slow. great for a one time or just a few times usage.
not for getting into the rear end rebuilding business......
 
I recently had to remove a pinion and drive shaft to install an overdrive .The pinion and bearing was really tight , it had been loctited into the housing. I decided to make my own puller out of some old pulleys and taper lock sprockets. It took a couple of hours with the lathe , but it was well worth it.( still have a good tool for next time ) I turned up a round plate to bolt to the housing so it would'nt be damaged by the push bolts.Turned down an old sprocket with a center hole that fitted over the driveshaft, drilled 4 holes , welded 4 long nuts on one side, made 4 long bolts out of high tensile threaded rod, then machined down 2 taper lock spockets so I was left with the center hub and the 1 1/8" taper bush. Slide the parts over the drive shaft, lock the taper locks on to the shaft and screw the bolts down to remove pinion , bearing and shaft assembly. May need to use a little heat on the housing.There is no need to remove the bearing lock nuts and upset the bearing pre load, be sure the shaft is clean and dry so the taper locks hold tight on the shaft
 

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Mike V. Florida said:
Look for "bearing separator" to find what Mitch has pictured.

see snap on CJ949 thru CJ953,

You will also need,

A bar type puller such as CJ84C
Click to expand...

And then there are the different lengths of side rods, which can also screw into one another... The little adapters are to use the small bearing clam shell
 

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