Phenolic Spacer

CA Victoria

CA Victoria

Well-known member
I want to add a phenolic spacer to cool the carburetor fuel on a Stromberg 48. I also need to install a vacuum port for a Columbia OD.
Has anyone found a phenolic spacer with a vacuum port?

What thickness phenolic spacer is adequate to reduce the carb heat issue.
 
CA Victoria said:
I want to add a phenolic spacer to cool the carburetor fuel on a Stromberg 48. I also need to install a vacuum port for a Columbia OD.
Has anyone found a phenolic spacer with a vacuum port?

What thickness phenolic spacer is adequate to reduce the carb heat issue.
Click to expand...
If you go to ebay and type in the search field "holley 94 spacer" or "stromberg 48 spacer" a list of phenolic and aluminum spacers will pop up and several are drilled to accept a fitting for a vacum port.
Here is one example;


https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Stromb...619038?hash=item3da3977c5e:g:9bAAAOxydB1Si8re
 
Probably the thickest phenolic you can find, I only see aluminum with a vacuum port, you may have to drill your own port.
 
The tansfered heat is only half the issue...the radiated heat from engine to floatbowl is another issue.
Make a aluminum sheet metal piece shaped like the floatbowl and attach to carbmount will do as much as the spacer reflecting heat back....if you can live with the looks of it.
 
Ya know guys, I read threads like these time and time again.
I still have a very difficult time believing the issue is the modern fuel. Why don't any of my cars have issues? I run pump fuel (10% ethanol) every time. Cars start immediately, run cool and run well.

Seems to me that more often than not there are other underlying issues...
 
Just for grins I’m going to check/monitor carb & fuel pump temps after the next run. It runs great in 100 degree temps with air moving over engine, but as mentioned heat radiated/conducted to fuel system is raising the temp causing flooding. This insulator along with my Columbia vac. plate may be the way to go.
 

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Phenolic (brown) spacer blocks use to be very common on many engines up through about the early'70's. It would appear that about the time heat riser valves disappeared from smog controlled engines, the phenolic spacer disappeared to.
Ford used phenolic spacers on many of their engine, especially the Y-Block V8's, I seem to recall that the 289/302 etc., had phenolic spacers under their carbs..
Until recently I had a '57 T-Bird 312 CID for many years, it had a large Holly 4 barrel with a phenolic spacer w/vacuum port. I used that port to hook up a stock PCV from a '64 Ford trk Y-Block.

I recently had a problem with a 2001 SBC 350/330 hp V8 w/AFB carb in my 39 conv. The engine ran fine except it was very hard to start when warmed up. The addition of a phenolic spacer solved the problem.
 
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Keep in mind that it's been documented that a spacer that has the divider just like the intake ports works better for our two barrel Flatties as documented by JWL in his Flathead Facts book.
Just sharing. ;)

Mike
 
Mine's a varnished oak 2-holer sharing a single vacuum port. Jack E/NJ
 

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I drilled a hole in the 1" phenolic spacer under the Holley 4bbl in my '40 and screwed in a barb hose fitting to supply the Columbia.
 
Kube said:
Ya know guys, I read threads like these time and time again.
I still have a very difficult time believing the issue is the modern fuel. Why don't any of my cars have issues? I run pump fuel (10% ethanol) every time. Cars start immediately, run cool and run well.

Seems to me that more often than not there are other underlying issues...
Click to expand...


So what do you suggest mike?
 
I've yet to experience vapor lock ( probably just gave myself a curse ) IMHO if the pump
is good and all fittings are truly air tight the likely hood of VL is reduced substantially.
I do use a genuine ASBESTOS carb to intake gasket on my own Fords and upon request
supply an extra Daytona Parts non asbestos carb to intake gasket if a customer wishes.
87 octane corn gas is all my motor knows.
Charlie
 
CA Victoria said:
Just for grins I’m going to check/monitor carb & fuel pump temps after the next run. It runs great in 100 degree temps with air moving over engine, but as mentioned heat radiated/conducted to fuel system is raising the temp causing flooding. This insulator along with my Columbia vac. plate may be the way to go.
Click to expand...

You want to check fuel pressure, vapor lock starts with low
pressure from the pump to the carb. 3.5 lbs is good but
when it gets below 3.0 the pressure from the hot gas over
comes the pump pressure. I found a small 6" square
electronic fan blowing down on the pump helps. But the
best thing is to get the engine to run blow 180 degrees and
have 4 lbs fuel pressure cold, this drops as the pump gets hot.
Also make sure the rubber hose is good. G.M.
 
CA Victoria said:
Just for grins I’m going to check/monitor carb & fuel pump temps after the next run. It runs great in 100 degree temps with air moving over engine, but as mentioned heat radiated/conducted to fuel system is raising the temp causing flooding. This insulator along with my Columbia vac. plate may be the way to go.
Click to expand...

Bob Shewman 1-610-933-6637 make the best spacer. G.M.
 
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