Petrol seperating ?

You`re never to old to learn. A lot of good posts, looks like we in England have 10 - 15% of that `stuff` in our fuel if what I`ve been told is correct.
With reference to the separation iv`e taken a couple of pics with some of the petrol in a jar. One pic shows the mix after shaking and the other a second or two, that`s all, later, it`s separating very quickly with the cloudy part on top.

https://www.fordbarn.com/attachments/250503/

A friend seems to think I can buy something to add to the fuel to overcome the problem ???
 

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Pinesdune said:
You're right, my old D John Deere had a water injector, cant find a pic right now, it was mainly used when running it on keroseen to reduce "pinging" or pre-ignition just likeyou said (engine would run so hot on keroseen that it would make the plugs glow like a diesel engine glow plug) and as soon as compression hit that majic point of compression/heat she'd go off. I have a service bulliten on it somehwere as to how much water to add/where to set the injector. But back on topic, you can add Methyl Hydrate to your gas when you refill your tank to help "dry it out". That was what you use to thaw frozen gas lines in winter and it helps keep the water from freezing up carbuertor passages.It keeps the water in suspension and lowers it's freezing point. The auto places should have a "modern" gas line antifreeze, but I'd just use plain methyl as it works better (pure methyl is hard on rubber seals found in modern cars) You should be able to get it at the drug store.
Pinesdune,
My experience was also with a Model-D John Deere. "Seems" I remember that it had a control valve that took a MINUTE amount of water from the cooling system & injected it into the manifold.
Once, we left the valve on overnight & one of the 7" cylinders was FULL of WATER!!!:eek: I don't remember if it would run on Kerosene also??????
Bill W.
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tbirdtbird said:
Cool, you sound in favor of corn

Pines, methyl hydrate is methanol or methyl alcohol going under a disguised name. We already have too much alcohol in our gas. Oops sorry Cool
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Yeah I know it's methyl alcohol, but if i remeber my chemistry correctly, there are some major differences between methyl and ethyl alcohols (other than one will kill you when you drink it and the other just gets you very merry lol) that includes the fact that one combines better with the gasoline than the other and actually works to absorb water out of the system. I could be wrong (and if I am, I appolagise now) , but if DenisR does have a water problem with his gas, I'd still stand by my recomendation of adding a little methanol to help dry out the tank.

And to Bill, yeah, you could actually get more HP out of keroseen in a D than gas or distialte, a friend ran one up 10 years ago on it and tested it, got another 4-5 hp out of her lol. I had to fill my injector with silicone to stop the water from doing exactly what yours did.
 
tbirdtbird said:
Cool, you sound in favor of corn

Pines, methyl hydrate is methanol or methyl alcohol going under a disguised name. We already have too much alcohol in our gas. Oops sorry Cool
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NOT in Favor of Corn
I live in a small town surrounded by corn and soybeans, ethanol plants and black fields in the winter. Corn farmers like the high prices, farmers who raise beef don't like the high cost of feed, those of us who are not farmers don't like the higher prices of food.

I'm 77 and go to the bakery every morning for my contact with the outside world and hear the farmers producing whine without grapes, only gripes. I am tired of hearing it and know it will only change when the corn lobby gets beaten down. That will only happen when enough people write or call their Congressmen to complain. I don't need to read it here again. and again.

Alcohol is alcohol. It absorbs water until it is saturated. I have access in our town for non-ethanol gas. But when I have to buy it I will take it home and pour it into a clear jug with a quart of water, shaken not stirred, then allowed to settle overnight. The alcohol will absorb the water and sink to the bottom. Then all you have to do is to siphon the gas off the top and use it.
 
Cool Hand Lurker said:
NOT in Favor of Corn
I live in a small town surrounded by corn and soybeans, ethanol plants and black fields in the winter. Corn farmers like the high prices, farmers who raise beef don't like the high cost of feed, those of us who are not farmers don't like the higher prices of food.

I'm 77 and go to the bakery every morning for my contact with the outside world and hear the farmers producing whine without grapes, only gripes. I am tired of hearing it and know it will only change when the corn lobby gets beaten down. That will only happen when enough people write or call their Congressmen to complain. I don't need to read it here again. and again.

Alcohol is alcohol. It absorbs water until it is saturated. I have access in our town for non-ethanol gas. But when I have to buy it I will take it home and pour it into a clear jug with a quart of water, shaken not stirred, then allowed to settle overnight. The alcohol will absorb the water and sink to the bottom. Then all you have to do is to siphon the gas off the top and use it.
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What's your small town? I grew up in Sherburn.
 
DennisR said:
You`re never to old to learn. A lot of good posts, looks like we in England have 10 - 15% of that `stuff` in our fuel if what I`ve been told is correct.
With reference to the separation iv`e taken a couple of pics with some of the petrol in a jar. One pic shows the mix after shaking and the other a second or two, that`s all, later, it`s separating very quickly with the cloudy part on top.

https://www.fordbarn.com/attachments/250503/

A friend seems to think I can buy something to add to the fuel to overcome the problem ???
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You have been told correctly Dennis UK petrol or gas does include Ethanol 10-15% !!
I have read that Murco premium is pure Petrol without the water which I believe is extracted form Oil seed ****
I have now started to use Premium in my A's in hope that is a better fuel.

I live near Basingstoke about 30 miles from you .
We are almost Neighbors !!!

John Cochran
 
Y- blockhead, we can get Stabil but I found a similar one by Millers so ill give that a go. John by USA standards we are neighbors, lol, thanks for the tip on Murco, I'll take a look at it. I drained the tank right down to almost empty today tried to start but not a sign of life. I tried looking for a spark off a plug but couldn't get one so now I'm going to have to check that.
Was looking thru the Snyders website, got to the carb section and picked up on something, I have a filter on my carb but on their website it says that it causes the engine to run rich, Henry didn't design it to have a filter, they have a modified carb.
 
Dennis, I had the same problem last spring. Miss Tille would not start and try as I may, I couldn't get anything to work. So I called a local fella who is great with the model A'. With him and Mitch from PA, I finally got her started and also eliminated a backfiring problem due to a lack of problem GAV adjustment while driving. I had to keep it open 1/4 turn to eliminate the backfiring. All the other problem wer related to moisture. I also drained the tank, added clean fuel with Sea Foam and I try to keep the tank full to eliminate condensation.

I would like to Wish you and your loved ones a Very Merry Christmas and a Safe, Healthy and Prosperous 2016 from us here from across the big pond in NW Ohio and the Ford Barners.
 

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bobpo1 said:
Dennis, I had the same problem last spring. Miss Tille would not start and try as I may, I couldn't get anything to work. So I called a local fella who is great with the model A'. With him and Mitch from PA, I finally got her started and also eliminated a backfiring problem due to a lack of problem GAV adjustment while driving. I had to keep it open 1/4 turn to eliminate the backfiring. All the other problem wer related to moisture. I also drained the tank, added clean fuel with Sea Foam and I try to keep the tank full to eliminate condensation.

I would like to Wish you and your loved ones a Very Merry Christmas and a Safe, Healthy and Prosperous 2016 from us here from across the big pond in NW Ohio and the Ford Barners.
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Keeping the tank full is really important, especially if you live in a high-humidity area! At night when things cool down the moisture in the air in the tank will condense on the inside tank walls and run down to the water puddle in the bottom. Then when you open the gas valve that water is the first thing to go down the tube to the carburetor.

And "40 Deluxe", I am in New Ulm.
 
Cool Hand Lurker said:
Keeping the tank full is really important, especially if you live in a high-humidity area! At night when things cool down the moisture in the air in the tank will condense on the inside tank walls and run down to the water puddle in the bottom. Then when you open the gas valve that water is the first thing to go down the tube to the carburetor.

And "40 Deluxe", I am in New Ulm.
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Ah yes! Home to "The Polka Station Of the Nation"! (KNUJ, if I remember right?)
 
Bobpo1, thank you and seasonal greetings to you and yours.
Looks like the general consensus is:
a) keep the tank as full as possible and,
b) use an additive,
I have only kept a couple of gallons in the tank, I didn`t like the idea of having 10 or so gallons of petrol sat idle while the car is on stands thru the winter although I was starting it every few weeks.
Taking in what has been said it`s a combination of condensation, and stale petrol due to the `stuff` that`s in it.
An idea I might try is to drain the tank dry and when I want to start it get a gallon of freshly treated petrol.
Again just to say thanks for all the input, :D :confused: :D
 
Mitch//pa said:
Bottom line is the ethanol laced gas should not have went bad in 2 months... You got a bad batch
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Ethanol gas will separate out in a few minutes if moisture is added. If no moisture, it takes a long time and a simple quick shake of the car would re-suspend it. However, the moisture could have been introduced at the filling station or pipeline/tanker/etc, as Mitch says "Bad Batch". I know someone that works for a pipeline and they go to the ends of the earth to keep moisture out, but sometimes it happens.
 
petrol in a jar. One pic shows the mix after shaking and the other a second or two said:
A friend seems to think I can buy something to add to the fuel to overcome the problem ???[/B][/SIZE][/FONT]
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No additive will take care of the amount of water/ethanol you have, at least in that sample. Looks like about 80%!!:eek:
 
Yellow gas is a no no. I had to bring thirty gallons of 10 % ethanol laced gas to recycling for disposal. Even with STABIL it goes bad .
 
The gasoline is simply saturated with water. You need to drain it and get some fresh gas. Nothing that you can pour in the tank will fix it.

You should be able to buy non - ethanol premium fuel in the UK, something that we do not have in the USA. That good gas will last perhaps 12 months. The corn gas starts to turn sour in as little as 30 days.

DennisR said:
You`re never to old to learn. A lot of good posts, looks like we in England have 10 - 15% of that `stuff` in our fuel if what I`ve been told is correct.
With reference to the separation iv`e taken a couple of pics with some of the petrol in a jar. One pic shows the mix after shaking and the other a second or two, that`s all, later, it`s separating very quickly with the cloudy part on top.

https://www.fordbarn.com/attachments/250503/

A friend seems to think I can buy something to add to the fuel to overcome the problem ???
Click to expand...
 
I have found a pint of Sea Foam to ten gallons will eat up the goo caused by "Linear Separation" caused by ethanol and moisture. The car / mower/ Outboard will sputter and cough and spit up the goo and then run well. The assumption is you have to get her running. Ether can assist the starting process.
StaBil Marine Formula and StarTron both tout they prevent linear separation while storing gas / petrol.
 
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