peter ryan

P

peter ryan

New member
Hi there i am new and from Australia, i need a couple of answers please. My mate and i are trying to get a distributer and the head out of a Model A and we are having trouble removing them, any ideas will be welcome dissy seams to be stuck in tight and we have pushed a scrapper into most of the head gasket.
Thanks in advance, regards Peter
 
Welcome to FB.

Go to the "Search this Forum" on the main Model A page and type in "stuck distributor" and there you see many responses.
 
welcome
you can try cranking the engine over with the spark plugs in and the compression will sometimes loosen the head. the head can come off with the dist and then you can usually tap the dist out from the bottom with head on bench. also make sure you loosened the dist hold down nut and set screw
there are tools available also for removing the head and dist from the suppliers and be careful the dist breaks easily...
 
I'd follow Mitch's method. Plugs in, remove head nuts. and wind over without turning ignition on. The problem with using a metal scraper is that you can scar the deck or the head without realising it until it's too late. I've used wood wedges on engines that are sitting under the bench with success as well. Also try some penetrene or mouse milk around the studs the day before to help free things up. Try a hot air gun on the head near the distributer after applying some penetrating fluid.
 
I recently heard about the rope trick from an old timer mechanic. I was told that after removing the plugs and head nuts put some rope into the cylinders then turn the engine over. Can anyone add to this? Any negatives?
 
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Welcome to the Barn. It is a great site.
I'm new at this as well but when I had to remove my head, I backed off all the head nuts several turns. Then I tapped all the nuts all the way around several times in every direction to loosen any junk and rust between the stud and the head. Once the head was loose from block it was not too difficult to work the head off the studs.
Al
 
Using one of these will help lift the head loose without prying with anything that will tend to damage the head or block surface. If it is still "stuck" when the head and block are separated, at least there is enough space between them to put a block of wood under there to help assist in lifting it off the rusty stuck bolts.
 

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If the engine will run, put the nuts back on but leave loose like about 1/16 inch and start the engine . Of course drain it first. Start the motor, it will stop when the head pops loose. If it keeps running don't over heat it and try something different. If you are taking the studs out take your time if they seem tight. Penetrating oil, a small hammer, paraffin and heat can be your friend.
 
some heads come off easily, and some are so difficult the head needs to be cut up to get it off. Fortunately, the latter solution is extremely rare. In 42 years of working on A's, I've seen two instances of that. It sounds like yours is a fairly typical tough spot. A head puller will serve you best, either the one pictured above or the one Gord makes. Search the archives or the sticky thread for head pullers and you will find their contact info.
 
foxfire42 said:
I recently heard about the rope trick from an old timer mechanic. I was told that after removing the plugs put some rope into the cylinders then turn the engine over. Can anyone add to this? Any negatives?
Click to expand...

This is the method I've always used (in 50 years) to loosen tight heads, with no adverse affects. I respect James Rogers's experience and advice, though.
 
foxfire42 said:
I recently heard about the rope trick from an old timer mechanic. I was told that after removing the plugs put some rope into the cylinders then turn the engine over. Can anyone add to this? Any negatives?
Click to expand...


Negative,is it's a good way to bend a rod. If you do it that way to careful and do not use the starter. I know some have done it that way, but if it is stuck hard and you use the starter, good by rod.
 
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We have a guy in our club who welded chain to two spark plugs, screwed them in the head and lifted with a hoist. He had the front of the car lifted off the ground and the head didn't budge. Not sure how he managed to finally get it loose.
 
Great Lakes Greg said:
We have a guy in our club who welded chain to two spark plugs, screwed them in the head and lifted with a hoist. He had the front of the car lifted off the ground and the head didn't budge. Not sure how he managed to finally get it loose.
Click to expand...

My first head removal years ago was exactly the same thing. With the front in the air overnight it still wasn't coming loose. I had to put a thin edge on a chisel and keep tapping all around the gasket. Someone way back when had use shellac on both sides of the gasket.
 
Great Lakes Greg said:
We have a guy in our club who welded chain to two spark plugs, screwed them in the head and lifted with a hoist. He had the front of the car lifted off the ground and the head didn't budge. Not sure how he managed to finally get it loose.
Click to expand...

With tension on the head soak the studs and gently head the head, the next morning the head was loose, it worked for me.
 
dave in australia said:
I'd follow Mitch's method. Plugs in, remove head nuts. and wind over without turning ignition on. The problem with using a metal scraper is that you can scar the deck or the head without realising it until it's too late. I've used wood wedges on engines that are sitting under the bench with success as well. Also try some penetrene or mouse milk around the studs the day before to help free things up. Try a hot air gun on the head near the distributer after applying some penetrating fluid.
Click to expand...

What's mouse milk?
 
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