Pertronix 1285LS Module setup

3

36fordguy

Member
I just purchased a new Pertronix 1285LS kit. I was wondering if anybody had any experience with this module. Mainly how do you set it up and get it on TDC before installing the distributor on the car initially. I emailed Pertronix and they said install the dist and connect it up and connect a test light and rotate the distributor. But on a "crab" type distributor there is no rotating the dist. need some help
36fordguy
 
Whats the application for the 1285LS kit, i dont see it in my catalog.
Assuming the #1285LS is a correct kit , the kit will locate the correct rotor phase etc thats the pertronixs job.

Your job is a normal deal after the kit is bolted down.
Line up the rotor with number 1 cylinder on the distributor and do a normal install....
 
6v or 12v? If 6v, are you running a gen or alt. Would like continuing progress if it is a 6v.
 
the Pertronics web site shows the 1285LS for 12V neg ground, the 1285LSN6 for 6 V neg ground, the 1285LSP12 for 12V pos ground, and the 1285LSP6 fpr 6V pos ground. The picture shows the module mounted to a typical crab mounting plate which should make the timing pretty close by just bolting it down to the housing. Of course the ideal thing would be to determine the actual TDC and marking the crank pulley so it could be timed with a timing light. I suppose the distributor could also be checked on a distributor machine as well, and probably on one of the vintage timing adapters.

http://www.pertronix.com/prod/new/details.aspx?ID=148
 
As a pertronixs distributor we have used quite a few of their controls etc over the years. We have had good and bad resuslts ( bad in the early years good today !!).
We have shipped quite a few of our home grown electronic crabs with very little trouble. And we have used the LS ( lobe sense) unit on all our conversions.
We have had some issues with the sync of the control unit regarding rotor phase etc...
I did just order one of the new plates and controller from pertronixs and will write it up when i recieve it . In my world i wouldnt consider anything but the 12 volt negative ground unit. WAY to many variations using the 6 volt electronic AND positive ground....

Heres another closing thought for the crab discussions, the actual rotor gaps are not made for large spark plug gaps and high energy spark outputs..!!!
So keep that plug gap down at .025-.030 max.......
 
I just installed this conversion kit in my crab type distributor. Had to cut off a quarter inch of the shaft bearing because it was too long and causing the distributor to lock up. Also needed to grind down the screws holding the sensor to the conversion plate because they also were locking it up.
 
Guys, we have installed six of these new units with no bad fitment issues what so ever. Nice machine work etc!

However here is a couple issues we have found so far :

If your distributor has some miles on it , it needs the distributor advance unit, serviced, cleaned and lubed ! Other wise the advance will stick in a centered position and cause bucking,misfires etc . Maybe even be hard to start..

Vacuum brake ( even if no hooked up) needs some slight tension on the leather stop. This helps the advance system return and helps stabilize the spark control..

Ignition coil selection is very critical! Use a 1.5 ohm coil with a 1.5 ohm resistor for best current control. Other wise you will over heat the PERTRONIXS module.

Don't step up the plug gaps, the ignition may be electronic but the engine design didn't change! It's still a flathead and the air gaps in the crab don't like high voltages... Use the factory .025-.030 plug gap...

Use the champion, autolite plugs etc, no need for the latest xxoo super charged turbo fuel efficient plugs from jc Whitney !

Leave the timing slot in the centered position ! Moving it around won't change much ( 6 degrees either way) and it changes the positioning of the control upsetting the rotor phase..
Changing timing won't fix your fuel delivery problems.
Remember ( from a ignition man) the 99 % of all problems are fuel related.:eek:
I guess the fuel guys say the same for ignition problems.:D:eek:

Hope this helps!
 
Bubba you stated, "Ignition coil selection is very critical! Use a 1.5 ohm coil with a 1.5 ohm resistor for best current control. Other wise you will over heat the PERTRONIXS module." I have a pertronix crab with a flame thrower Pertronix coil that is 1.5 Ohms.....Do I need a 1.5 Ohm resister somewhere in the system? ....... Matt in Alameda
 
Matt in Alameda said:
Bubba you stated, "Ignition coil selection is very critical! Use a 1.5 ohm coil with a 1.5 ohm resistor for best current control. Other wise you will over heat the PERTRONIXS module." I have a pertronix crab with a flame thrower Pertronix coil that is 1.5 Ohms.....Do I need a 1.5 Ohm resister somewhere in the system? ....... Matt in Alameda
Click to expand...

Yes it helps cool down the coil with little change in output.
After having issues with the units we now suggest all use a resistor
 
I just fitted one to my crab distributor and I used the flamethrower 1.5 ohm coil with a 1.5 ohm resistor and the result was no spark.

On the instructions for the coil they recommend no resistor if your fitting it to a V8.
 
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