penatrating oil

bobs' 36

New member
a while back someone had a mixture of i think automatic ****** fluid and something else that they said worked great--anyone remember what it was ?
 
I'm going to have to try this on some carbs that need rebuilt.


Same rules apply: Hit it a few days before and let it soak. I've also had success with larger items like transmissions, engines, rears, etc. by heating them with a torch and then hitting the spot with the mixture. The heat wicks it down into the threads.

It will not be uncommon to see wet threads once you get it apart. You know its working when you see that.
 
I'm not going to verify or endorse this. Draw your own conclusions.

Happy knuckle busting !
Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch
and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

I managed to get a copy of the original article from the magazine--I
think it was courtesy of Scott Rollins. Someone goofed even in the original
article--the home brew was Power Steering Fluid, not ATF. The text of the
article says ATF, but the accompanying photo shows Power Steering Fluid.
Also, the test was not with the torque to remove a nut from a bolt, but
instead was the pressure to press a 1/4" rod out of a 1/4" hole that was
originally a light finger fit. He explains the "scientifically rusted"
procedure too.
 
I had some 86 year old brass screws that I couldn't get out and was afraid they would break off if i hurked on them. Tried the 50/50 mix and the next morning they backed out like they were in butter. Didn't have to heat the metal as with wax.

Not sure but I think Ol' Ron is where I got the info.

Fourdy
 
Same rules apply: Hit it a few days before and let it soak. I've also had success with larger items like transmissions, engines, rears, etc. by heating them with a torch and then hitting the spot with the mixture. The heat wicks it down into the threads.

It will not be uncommon to see wet threads once you get it apart. You know its working when you see that.

I tried Kroil on an old 48 Stromberg a guy sent me to rebuild. The throttle shaft was stuck tight, and the body full of mud, etc. I soaked it for weeks, pounded on both ends of the shaft to no avail. I finally had to use violence to remove the shaft. I'll see what the ATF/acetone does to a couple of stuck Holleys.
 
I got it from Old George. Had a 3 jaw chuck on an old lathe, tried everything I could think on for several YEARS and it wouldn't budge. Two days of squitering it with the 50-50 mix and it spun right off.
 
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