When applying Peel and Seal on the cowl area of my coupe, is it better to apply it in strips (like the expensive dyna? ) or should the entire area be covered? Also I was then planning to the cover the same area with Lowes foil wrapped bubble insulation. Hopefully someone has experience in this area. Thanks in advance for your help
Peel and Seal from Lowes - question
- Thread starter Leon
- Start date
H. L. Chauvin
Well-known member
Strips work well -- much easier to handle with less waste if a large piece has to be discarded because it "stuck" in the wrong place.
I used "B-Quiet" -- lab test show two (2) layers of "B-Quiet" equals the same sound deadening effect as triple, (i.e., 3 times) that of a single layer.
With double layers, one can overlay & bridge over previous joints in the first layer.
After applying a few pieces, one gets the hang of it being careful that once it sticks, it is really "stuck"; or maybe, if it sticks in the wrong place, better to say one is "stuck".
I used "B-Quiet" -- lab test show two (2) layers of "B-Quiet" equals the same sound deadening effect as triple, (i.e., 3 times) that of a single layer.
With double layers, one can overlay & bridge over previous joints in the first layer.
After applying a few pieces, one gets the hang of it being careful that once it sticks, it is really "stuck"; or maybe, if it sticks in the wrong place, better to say one is "stuck".
Last edited:
Super88
Senior Member
Many of the members of the H.A.M.B. forum have experience with this product and may be able to answer your question. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=711889
Doug in NJ
Well-known member
I put three layers of that stuff on the insides of the cowl, and a layer over the inside of the (sedan) rear body panel. I was quite happy with the effect it had on vibration.
For the cowls, I cut strips form the roll that ran horizontally front-to-rear.
Doug
For the cowls, I cut strips form the roll that ran horizontally front-to-rear.
Doug
Evan Lewis
Member
Leon,
I covered the complete inside of my Tudor with the foil covered bubble wrap (cowls, fire wall, roof, doors, rear panels, etc.). The doors sound great when you close them, other sounds deadened and much cooler in the summer here in Georgia.
Evan Lewis
I covered the complete inside of my Tudor with the foil covered bubble wrap (cowls, fire wall, roof, doors, rear panels, etc.). The doors sound great when you close them, other sounds deadened and much cooler in the summer here in Georgia.
Evan Lewis
H. L. Chauvin
Well-known member
Hi Leon,
Not sure if your intent is for sound deadening or temperature control or both.
For temperature control, the aluminum foil radiant barrier definitely requires an air space immediately adjacent to it.
This very detailed information on radiant barriers has been written, published, & known by only a few since the 1920's with early insulation experiments conducted by Reynolds aluminum.
If one places even an expensive material like Dynamat with the foil facing upwards on a vehicle metal floor board, & covers the foil with a floor mat or carpet without an air space, the foil does absolutely nothing to keep the vehicle cool in summer & does nothing to keep the vehicle warm in winter.
Likewise, if one places a sheet of foil between (2) sheets of plywood, building felt, etc., without an adjacent air space, the temperature difference on either side it totally unaltered.
If one researches Radiant Barriers on Google, one can become quickly informed on exactly what radiant barriers do & cannot do "without" an air space.
Hope this helps.
Not sure if your intent is for sound deadening or temperature control or both.
For temperature control, the aluminum foil radiant barrier definitely requires an air space immediately adjacent to it.
This very detailed information on radiant barriers has been written, published, & known by only a few since the 1920's with early insulation experiments conducted by Reynolds aluminum.
If one places even an expensive material like Dynamat with the foil facing upwards on a vehicle metal floor board, & covers the foil with a floor mat or carpet without an air space, the foil does absolutely nothing to keep the vehicle cool in summer & does nothing to keep the vehicle warm in winter.
Likewise, if one places a sheet of foil between (2) sheets of plywood, building felt, etc., without an adjacent air space, the temperature difference on either side it totally unaltered.
If one researches Radiant Barriers on Google, one can become quickly informed on exactly what radiant barriers do & cannot do "without" an air space.
Hope this helps.
H. L. Chauvin
Well-known member
Hi Dave & Leon,
This may be a lengthy over simplification attempt in laymen's terms on Model A heat & noise reduction; but, it may possibly help those just a bit when not extremely familiar with this subject.
A. One (1) major technical problem experienced during the last 50 years or so with heat transfer material knowledge & sound transfer material knowledge is that the authors & lecturers writing & lecturing on these unique materials are hired salesmen rewarded for selling these products.
B. The next major technical problem experienced is that professionals read, listen, & absorb this salesmen's information & later write professional articles & recommend only what they read or heard from these salesmen.
C. It is similar to reading & hearing about beer for years -- then after one (1) experience in drinking one (1) beer, the written articles get boring.
D. Experience is many times the key!
1. Simple Question: When trying to reduce heat & noise "inside" Model A vehicles, first think about the major source -- is it the heat & noise of the engine & engine components; or is it the heat rising from the highway & outside highway noise such as tires rolling, vehicles passing, passing vehicle air currents; or is it both, & if so what percent of each -- most vehicles drivers will have similar answers in similar geographical areas -- then what happens to highway noise if one rolls down the windows?
2. In getting to more specific concerns:
a. Heat absorption: Place a piece of sheet metal & a rubber fuel tube in the sun for an hour -- the metal is too hot to touch, but even though the tube is warm, it can be held -- now wrap the sheet metal with rubber tubes & place it in the sun -- one can now touch the rubber -- Dynamat & similar products help reduce the metal's absorbed heat surface. Model A wood floor boards, however do not absorb as much heat as that of metal.
b. Metal noise: Get a flat 48" square piece of sheet metal & shake it by holding it on one corner --sounds like thunder -- provide several very heavy coats of tar on both sides & shake it -- Dynamat add similar mass & has the same effects.
c. Noise infiltration through holes, cracks, & crevices: Place a loud radio in a bedroom, close the door & walk down the hall -- go back, leave a 1/4" crack in the door & walk down the hall -- any difference in listening to the radio?
d. Heat infiltration through holes, cracks, & crevices: Light an oven set at 150 degrees in a cool, very small kitchen & close the oven door & wait 30 minutes -- now open the oven door 1/4" & place a fan in the oven representing an engine fan -- any difference in this small kitchen's heat?
e. Floor carpet, & thick floor carpet pads: Visit a friend on a 32 degree day in winter who has a frame house off of the ground with a single layer of tongue & groove wood flooring -- take your shoes off & walk on the wood living room floor -- now go to the bedroom where this same wood floor is covered with dense carpet over a thick pad -- bare feet notice any difference -- suppose no furniture in this new house -- notice any difference in echoes in the (2) rooms, one with with an exposed wood floor & the bedroom padded carpet floor? -- suppose the floor were exposed metal? -- feet notice any difference? -- tightly wrap a vintage non-electric wood guitar & a violin with padded carpet -- did the padded carpet sound absorption have any effect?
3. Summary:
A. Even though the aluminum on the adhesive sound materials on vehicle floors do not have air spaces to ward off radiant energy, the aluminum at least keeps the sticky stuff covered.
B. If one uses adhesive sound materials on floor boards in conjunction with padded carpet, one can experience reductions in both sound transfer, sound absorption, & heat transfer & heat absorption even without a radiant barrier -- beside, the radiant heat from the sun never shines directly to the floor boards.
Hope this helps.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Also:
Typical 100 degree day summer residential or Model A garage or shop heat transfer recommendations experienced over the years include:
Pile up insulation on the attic deck & allow the attic to get 150 degrees.
Why not insulate the roof, reduce attic temperatures 55 degree to 95 degrees?
Why make both a desired cooler areas below the attic, & air-conditioning ducts fight 150 degree heat?
Once a "continuous" sealed horizontal or vertical thermal barrier in a roof or ceiling exceeds an R factor of 35, aluminum radiant barriers have very little effect.
So few consider this information as we speak; but, it is out there published by independent laboratory studies.
This may be a lengthy over simplification attempt in laymen's terms on Model A heat & noise reduction; but, it may possibly help those just a bit when not extremely familiar with this subject.
A. One (1) major technical problem experienced during the last 50 years or so with heat transfer material knowledge & sound transfer material knowledge is that the authors & lecturers writing & lecturing on these unique materials are hired salesmen rewarded for selling these products.
B. The next major technical problem experienced is that professionals read, listen, & absorb this salesmen's information & later write professional articles & recommend only what they read or heard from these salesmen.
C. It is similar to reading & hearing about beer for years -- then after one (1) experience in drinking one (1) beer, the written articles get boring.
D. Experience is many times the key!
1. Simple Question: When trying to reduce heat & noise "inside" Model A vehicles, first think about the major source -- is it the heat & noise of the engine & engine components; or is it the heat rising from the highway & outside highway noise such as tires rolling, vehicles passing, passing vehicle air currents; or is it both, & if so what percent of each -- most vehicles drivers will have similar answers in similar geographical areas -- then what happens to highway noise if one rolls down the windows?
2. In getting to more specific concerns:
a. Heat absorption: Place a piece of sheet metal & a rubber fuel tube in the sun for an hour -- the metal is too hot to touch, but even though the tube is warm, it can be held -- now wrap the sheet metal with rubber tubes & place it in the sun -- one can now touch the rubber -- Dynamat & similar products help reduce the metal's absorbed heat surface. Model A wood floor boards, however do not absorb as much heat as that of metal.
b. Metal noise: Get a flat 48" square piece of sheet metal & shake it by holding it on one corner --sounds like thunder -- provide several very heavy coats of tar on both sides & shake it -- Dynamat add similar mass & has the same effects.
c. Noise infiltration through holes, cracks, & crevices: Place a loud radio in a bedroom, close the door & walk down the hall -- go back, leave a 1/4" crack in the door & walk down the hall -- any difference in listening to the radio?
d. Heat infiltration through holes, cracks, & crevices: Light an oven set at 150 degrees in a cool, very small kitchen & close the oven door & wait 30 minutes -- now open the oven door 1/4" & place a fan in the oven representing an engine fan -- any difference in this small kitchen's heat?
e. Floor carpet, & thick floor carpet pads: Visit a friend on a 32 degree day in winter who has a frame house off of the ground with a single layer of tongue & groove wood flooring -- take your shoes off & walk on the wood living room floor -- now go to the bedroom where this same wood floor is covered with dense carpet over a thick pad -- bare feet notice any difference -- suppose no furniture in this new house -- notice any difference in echoes in the (2) rooms, one with with an exposed wood floor & the bedroom padded carpet floor? -- suppose the floor were exposed metal? -- feet notice any difference? -- tightly wrap a vintage non-electric wood guitar & a violin with padded carpet -- did the padded carpet sound absorption have any effect?
3. Summary:
A. Even though the aluminum on the adhesive sound materials on vehicle floors do not have air spaces to ward off radiant energy, the aluminum at least keeps the sticky stuff covered.
B. If one uses adhesive sound materials on floor boards in conjunction with padded carpet, one can experience reductions in both sound transfer, sound absorption, & heat transfer & heat absorption even without a radiant barrier -- beside, the radiant heat from the sun never shines directly to the floor boards.
Hope this helps.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Also:
Typical 100 degree day summer residential or Model A garage or shop heat transfer recommendations experienced over the years include:
Pile up insulation on the attic deck & allow the attic to get 150 degrees.
Why not insulate the roof, reduce attic temperatures 55 degree to 95 degrees?
Why make both a desired cooler areas below the attic, & air-conditioning ducts fight 150 degree heat?
Once a "continuous" sealed horizontal or vertical thermal barrier in a roof or ceiling exceeds an R factor of 35, aluminum radiant barriers have very little effect.
So few consider this information as we speak; but, it is out there published by independent laboratory studies.