Pedal assembly

Z

Zeke5180

Member
New to the forum and was wondering if anyone in the forum have any tips and hints on removing the pedal assembly from a stock 37 and installing the Drake 39 assembly? I'm converting to hydraulic brakes using the MT products kits front and back. This all started with bad king pins and a tie rod end so I figured it would be a good time to do the conversion. Rear drums are a bear but waiting to rent the puller from Van Pelt.

John
 
I would check out what Richard Lacy has to offer that uses your '37 pedals before I went too far with the '39 units. Richard Lacy at earlyv8@aol.com (mail), earlyv8garage.net (web site), (626) 338-2282

Charlie Stephens
 
Everything he sells is well thought out and works well. I will I had known about him sooner.
 
I used Richard Lacy's master cylinder mount on a '35 tudor I converted to hydraulic brakes. By using Richard's conversion you would not have the hassle of removing the original brake/clutch pedal assembly and installing a '39 assembly. This kit also provides an emergency brake cable mounting system that connects to original brake lever mechanism. I posted pictures of this conversion in a previous post here.
 
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Thanks everyone for the input. I will check Richard Lacy's website and also look for JM 35's photos of his conversion.

Zeke
 
JM 35 Sedan said:
I used Richard Lacy's master cylinder mount on a '35 tudor I converted to hydraulic brakes. There was no hassle with removing original brake/clutch pedal assembly and installing a '39 assembly. The kit also provides an emergency brake cable mounting system that connects to original brake lever mechanism. I posted pictures of this conversion in a previous post here.
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I am not sure reading your post if you used Richard Lacy's master cylinder mount or a '39 assembly?

Charlie Stephens
 
There is a template for the cutout required for the 1939 pedals. I think the lower rear hole is common with the 1937 pedals and the other holes may be different.
 

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If the '37 is sim to my '38 you have to enlarge the hole the assembly goes through. I didn't have the template back when I did mine so that was the hardest part. The stock '37 clutch shaft lever will probably be too far right to line up with the '39 clutch pedal linkage. I just made a longer shaft but there are other offset clutch shaft levers that will make everything line up. Also note that the clutch pedal arm may bottom out on the '37 frame. This will limit adjustment. You can make a dimple in the edge of the frame where the clutch pedal arm hits and that will help. I didn't do that but I wished I had after I changed to a diaphragm clutch disc. Could have used the extra wiggle room.
 

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Brother Zeke and 38bill, thanks for the input. Thanks for the heads up on the clutch linkage 38. I'll keep that in mind. Zeke, I'm sure the template will come in handy. I was going to call Drake since my assembly did not have the template.
 
I thought it was on their site to down load at one time, not sure.
Isn't the one posted in #9 the one you need? You would have to mess with the size to get it correct, but shouldn't be too difficult if you have the bracket to compare.
 
Having just installed the Drake '39 pedal assy on my '36, I can tell you that once you get it mounted, which is a lot of work, the holes through the floor board don't line up. I have dual exhaust or I would have used the Lacy assy. His requires the master be set at 90 degrease to the chassis, a very interesting invention.


Also as a note, with dual exhaust, the pipe runs about an inch or two away from the master making the fluid very hot. I had to cram lots of insulation between the two. Duals also make the gas line and wiring hot, more insulation.
 
Zeke5180 said:
Thanks everyone for the input. I will check Richard Lacy's website and also look for JM 35's photos of his conversion.

Zeke
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Zeke, I went back and searched for the post I had made and couldn't find the one I mentioned, so thought I would save time and just repost these pictures here. You may have already made your decision to go with '39 pedals, but someone else may benefit from knowing that Richard Lacy sells a kit that's an alternate method for mounting a master cylinder, instead of swapping to a '39 pedal assembly. This kit is a bolt in design requiring no cutting, or other modifications, and also provides a direct hookup to the original e-brake handle.
 

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The template attached to Zeke3's post #9 should work. I didn't have any info so I laid it out myself using an original '39 pedal assembly that I removed from another pickup. I started with the top rear screw hole to mount it (the template says to use the rear bottom hole). I don't know how the '37 is but my floor boards matched the '39 pedals perfectly. Maybe just got lucky? Steve does has a good point regarding the exhaust. Depending on what your setup is you may want a heat shield of some kind. I'm running Red's headers and they seem to be far enough outboard that its not really a problem. I originally had a small heat shield next to the MC (you can just see the clamps in the photo) but I have since removed it without any problems. You can also see the original top front bolt hole that went unused.
 

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JM,

That looks like a great setup but as you guessed I'm to far into the 39 assembly to turn back. It look like the whole cable assembly was removed from the frame to make room. Great pictures.


Zeke
 
38Bill,


I see you have an attachment to the pedal assembly master cylinder bracket. Was that for more room from the frame? The Drake template has us modifying the smaller hole for the edge of the master cylinder bracket.

Zeke
 
38Bill,

By the way great picture! They say a picture is worth a thousand words. I can now visualize hoe things should go together.

Zeke
 
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