parking brake equalizer rod

1930artdeco

1930artdeco

Well-known member
So I was trying to install the rear brakes on my 57 wagon and realized that the parking brake cable springs were not compressed at all because they were new. After replacing the front half of the system, I went to hook the cables to the rod and after some tugging with vice grips they went in! Then I realized the cable housing was not seated in its little housing with its little clip. Took it apart and then fixed the other end and now my cables are about 3" to short from the carrier on the rod.

There is still some compression room in the rear brake area but I cannot for the life of me figure out to stretch the cable those 3". Then I checked the repo rod versus my really bent to $%@#$%$ original rod and what do you know. The original is about 5" longer than the repo.

Question, if I cannot find another original rod can I just bend a piece of 1/4" all thread to match? or does it have to be a special version of steel to withstand the pulling?

Thanks,

Mike
 

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Probably best to find an original. Any all thread you could bend may not be strong enough to withstand repeated use. JMHO. Alternatives may be to straighten your original rod or fab up something that will work.
 
Here's a different perspective: I found an equalizer rod for my '65 T-Bird online, at least they said it was for a '65 T-Bird, but it was the wrong length, like yours. So I looked high and low for another one of the appropriate length, but found nothing.

Then I called the T-Bird experts at Pat Wilson's, and they said they use the threaded rod from the hardware store, so that's what I did. Wilson's isn't a cheapo low quality place. Maybe they told me that because there aren't any repros available, and having a lower quality rod is better than none. I can't say. But it's not a part of the car that's in use while the vehicle is in motion, so I'm not too concerned at this point. I'll keep an eye on it and see if it distorts over time.
 
My suggestion; clean up that old one and heat it up a section at a time with a prestolite torch and squeeze it straight in an atomic workbench vice. Might be best to have a helper since you will want somebody to hold the end with a pair of pliers while you tighten the vice. And the work will go faster if you got a good helper.
Once you get it straightened out, coat the rod with cold galvanizing compound and re-install it.
 
I have not contacted the supplier to verify the part-I have done it in the past and I they were not very helpful as to parts knowledge going to my car. They are a national supplier and reputable. That being said, either the rod or the cables are incorrect-or poorly made repos. Anything is possible with this car.

I have looked in a different catalogue and found that there is a 56 station wagon set of cables and their equalizer rod is 12" vs. 7 1/4". So either the cables are incorrect or the rod is. I have no idea how to verify if the cables are wrong as I tossed the originals (I know dumb move). Maybe I will call on the 56 cables to see if they will work on my 57.

Mike
 
Ok, I am going to try something. I checked with the local T Bird store and they had some parking brake cables (66 t bird) that matched-physically looked like-the 57 cable. The only difference that we could see is that the spring portion that goes into the brake drum area is only about 6" or so long vs. 8" or so. Will they work? The connections are the same where the clips go, it has balls on the adj. side. I just need to measure the cable length.
Mike
 
SEARCH B7A 2628-B and you will find your rod -
 

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Yep, found one. I just hope the cables that I got work out. Then I can finish the rear axle and install the tank I just bought. Then the front suspension and steering goes in about a week after that.

Mike
 
BTW -

That rod is cataloged by FORD for universal replacement on most applications 1949-1964 (possibly later). It is a cut to fit part.
 
Going through the same type of issue on a 65 Comet Cyclone. Turns out that model is different than about any other year! I ended up using a clevis & pin vs the bent rod. On the Comet any bent rod I used wanted to induce a twist into the equalizer bar. Anyway, designed my own set up. :)
 
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