Panhard Rod "How To"..

[Tom Walker]

There has been some talk on the Barn recently about handling improvements ie panhard rods, sway bars etc.

My brother has a Model A which had a scary tendency to veer off the road at will, especially driving over bumps and hollows. So he came up with a really simple Panhard rod for the front axle, which is easy to make and well hidden.

I thought it may be useful to show how he did it in case any barners out there were considering something similar.

He used a Model A Tie Rod, because you can buy the parts for the ends, and "weld-in" ball studs. He made a bracket to weld on to the centre spring clamp plate out of 1/4" mild plate, and a steel block at the outer end to fill the fillet of the axle, and provide a mounting point. Both these were drilled for the ball studs which were then welded in. The block for the outer monting was drileed and tapped for 3/8" unc bolts, and 2 holes drilled in the axle accordingly.

The tie rod was shortened to suit. He was aiming to get the tie rod as horizontal as possible, behind the axle to hide it.

The handling of the car is transformed, I could'nt believe the difference when I drove it. It really tracks dead straight now.

My brother had already re-built the front end, so there was no play in steering joints or spring shackles, but this panhard rod is still necessary for improved handling. At least, that is our experience.

Cheers, Tom.

 

[TJ]

Looks like a good job. I'm amazed how he got the bracket welded to that cast spring plate. Not an easy job.

 

[Tom Walker]

Thanks for the compliment TJ. As to the difficulty of the weld, and how strong the result, luckily for us Mr Ford only used the finest materials, so that spring plate is forged out of steel, which made the job relatively straightforward. Stick welder with mild steel rods.

We are considering doing a Panhard rod for the rear axle, but it tracks so well now, not sure its necessary.

Cheers, Tom.

 

[HotRodmicky]

Very cool idea

 

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Nice looking job, I like it, I might make one for my 31 A. Looks your spring shackle is close to the axel, is your spring weak? Walt

 

[PeteVS]

If you have "veering" when hitting a bump or hole, that's most likely "bump steer." It's caused by the steering drag link not being parallel to the line that runs from the wishbone ball to the centerline of the front wheels. When you hit a bump, the front wheels go up on a radius centered on the wishbone ball and perpendicular to the line I described above. The if the drag link is not parallel (or close to parallel) the front of the drag link will go up at a different angle. That will result in differing amounts of fore and aft motion and that gives you a change in steering. A Panhard bar will help if you have a cross steering set up but not a traditional '28 to '34 set up.

 

[my4dv8]

Great that this fix works. In theory a pan hard bar should be as long as possible to reduce the arc from up.and down . But yours works. Probably should be mounted to the frame on the steering box side to follow general guidelines. But no need to change what works.

 

[Tom Walker]

Nice looking job, I like it, I might make one for my 31 A. Looks your spring shackle is close to the axel, is your spring weak? Walt

Walt, cant really bring it up on the Barn, but my brother cant help himself, so lowered the front of his A by flattening the spring.

Our cars together this year

 

[Tom Walker]

Great that this fix works. In theory a pan hard bar should be as long as possible to reduce the arc from up.and down . But yours works. Probably should be mounted to the frame on the steering box side to follow general guidelines. But no need to change what works.

Hi my4dv8, you are dead right, a lot of mulling over went on! He wanted to put the chassis mount on the left hand rail, but there is no obvious place without a messy bracket.

Also the travel of the front front spring is much reduced having lowered it, so we thought it worth the risk. I think with standard springing and more movement, you are more at risk of the jacking effect. The rod gets more angle on it. Would'nt wannit on yer circuit car but it sorts the flattie!!

Cheers, Tom.

 

[Tom Walker]

If you have "veering" when hitting a bump or hole, that's most likely "bump steer." It's caused by the steering drag link not being parallel to the line that runs from the wishbone ball to the centerline of the front wheels. When you hit a bump, the front wheels go up on a radius centered on the wishbone ball and perpendicular to the line I described above. The if the drag link is not parallel (or close to parallel) the front of the drag link will go up at a different angle. That will result in differing amounts of fore and aft motion and that gives you a change in steering. A Panhard bar will help if you have a cross steering set up but not a traditional '28 to '34 set up.

PeteVS, does this happen on all buggy spring fords or just if they are altered from standard?

 

[my4dv8]

No it only happens when you change to different steering components and the drag link is not parallel anymore or pivot point are altered. It could happen on an original if it's all worn out to some extent.
You can also get bump steer on later A arm suspension cars when the spindles are changed or again when geometry is altered incorrectly.